sheefreak

You got took on that bore job by the way.

Take your fuel line off of input to carbs and see if fuel is flowing to that point. If it is, recheck you pilot jets, make sure they are as clean as possible. If you are getting fuel to the bowls, and pilot jets are clean, there is no reason you shouldn't be getting fuel to the cylinders.

Don't see a pic, but try and think of who not too close to you may have seen you ride it the last couple times you were out. Particularly people who saw you drive it up to your home.

Usually happens because your tranny fluid heats up so much it boils over. But the couple times I saw that is was from neglect.(not changing tranny fluid for ever) It's hard for me to see how a crank seal would make that happen, usually a leaky crank seal will suck the oil into the cylinders and spit it out the exhaust. I wonder if maybe your clutch is slipping real bad causing a lot of heat. I would look for something causing major heat.

Good luck getting 16 horse w/just pipes.

There are some great teardrop ones. They make those for the people that don't have to take their swingarm off. TM Designworks has a real nice chain slide.

My bike w/same setup ran best w/320 mains, 27.5 pilots, and needle one notch richer than yours. Wanna say clip in 4th position. I only ran it at silver lake.

No Ellison, I wasn't implying that bashing would be anything personal, I have just been around here long enough to know what just might come my way. This is one reason I enjoy this site, as compared to some others where I find good info also, but that is it. I did grab a link though just to show that they are very close in performance. http://www.bansheeracing.com/cubdynos.htm This all being said, If I were to buy something brand new, I would spring for the extra and buy brand new Toomey's, but if I found a good deal used, and on a budget, Fatty's aren't so bad.

Same reason you think they are awesome, Toomeys are(were) a banshee only pipe maker, they must be better. There is always a big disagreement on this whereever this topic comes up. I believe A&S has some dyno sheets on there web site that shows a very comparable curb between the two, as a matter of fact, the toomeys dipped in power toward the top, where the FMF's stayed smooth. I am sure in different conditions and different motors both will shine better than the other, and I am not saying you are not correct in telling him the Toomeys are a sweet pipe. But I disagree that the Toomeys blow away the FMF's. I have raced time and time again bikes w/toomeys when my bike was stock w/pipes, and have never had a comparable bike w/Toomeys walk away from me, as a matter of fact, usually beat them. Maybe we can get a few more opinions on this subject before you start bashing the shit out of me.

Does anyone know right off where I can get paint that matches the factory a-arm and frame paint from a 99(not sure what other years this paint was used on)?

I disagree, the FMF's have been Dyno proven to run right w/the Toomey's, and you can usually pick them up cheap. On the down side, the chrome(nickel plating)is shit, and the Toomey's sound a little better. Couldn't tell you about the other two.

What kind of riding do you do?

I agree it has to be either crank out of balance, or piston slap. When is the last time you have mic'd your cylinders? If you find out they are in tolerance, then better look at the crank.

You are saying you have to keep it at 3/4 throttle to keep it running?

WWW.ROCKYMOUNTAINATV.COM Or, if you are looking for a certain rollout, or more extreme such as more paddles or ultra lights, call John at Sandtoyz Unlimited. 818-500-SAND. He is a nice guy, and is very knowledgeable about setups and what you should be using. I am not sure if Jeff at F.A.S.T. carries them or not, but may want to try him as he is always willing to do whatever he can to help.

If it starts up, runs fine and revs up, and you are certain the pilot jets are clean, you may not have drilled the holes in the right spot for the new idle screws w/the TORS eliminator kit. I would take your air filter setup off so you can see the slides and adjust one of your idle screws and see if it actually moves the slide up at all. If it doesn't, you may never achieve idle. It is also possible your reeds may have something to do with it, but that is a long shot.

Is it an actual hole, or like a divot from debree?

You could bore them to the max and might just barely feel a gain in power. Like bashdog said, don't do it. If you are talking for the quad in your sig, get some pipes and open the airbox a little. Jet it accordingly, and it will be a huge difference in power. But prepare for the disease, once you start, you can't stop.

I sure hope your wife never reads this.

If your head wasn't torqued down and it was leaking, you didn't get a good compression test.

Running w/airbox lid on, off, no airbox, stock carbs???

Good, it is definately a TORS problem, so fix it, and let us know how it goes!

PM NYUK on the Case, he most likely has something for you. I have a set of fibers, steels, and springs I just took out w/some life left on them. $25 shipped if you want em.

If you read the electrical FAQ I posted for you, it holds your hand through just about any electrical problem you may come across. It specifically tells you how to eliminate the TORS. Go through it step by step and check everything. Sounds like it would be a good thing for you to commit to memory.

When is the last time you cleaned the pilot jets? They will clog very easily, and will be very hard to start. Take them out and blow air through them, and carb cleaner. Make sure you can see light through them. Open the throttle right up and kick it a few times, then check the plugs. Should def. see gas on plugs then. I always do a compression test after a rebuild to make sure compression is good. Won't necessarily indicate an air leak, but will tell you if head is leaking, or rings have blow by. My guess is the pilot jets are your problem.