sheefreak

I had it done at Patriot racing. Any reputable shop can take care of you though. You might check w/F.A.S.T. since he is a sponsor on this site. The pancake bearing replaces the clutch adjuster setup on the end of your mainshaft. Helps keep you from welding the ball to the pushrod. For $45 bucks, it is worth never having to find out what it is like fixing it if they did. You can get these through any reputable builder as well.

If it is spraying oil like that you should see an obvious problem in the seal or between mating surfaces of the cases somewhere. I think for a true and weld, TZ bearing clutch side, and max load bearing stator side I paid $150 plus shipping to get the crank there. I would also think about a pancake bearing, and possibly a billet water impeller for insurance.

"agree or not, its a fact ..." Need to get your facts straight about strokers Bansh-eman! :ninja:

I didn't on mine and the only places I have problems is when I screw up and chip the paint somehow(bad trailoring, strapping, etc.). I only say I don't know on the decals because I have never done it. I don't know if the adhesive promoter would mess w/the graphix or not. Forgot to mention my plastics are shaved right down front and back though so they are fairly rigid.

Bring it!

Hold your hand behind the pipe that smokes and give it some gas. If it is sucking tranny oil through your crank seal or leaking between the case halves, it will cover your hand w/oil. If it does spray oil, you can take the pipe off that side and dump oil out of it. Does it rev out still, and just blow mad smoke?

I have used an adhesive promoter and then cleared before, not sure how it will go over w/the graphics though.

When you have a failure like that, you should always open your bottom end if for nothing else to clean the debri out. Some people will tell you to flush it out, that's bull shit in my opinion. The fact that you keep having problems should motivate you to really get to the bottom of the problem. The Banshee is one of the easiest motors to crack open. Once you remove the stator and clutch side components, the top lifts right off and everyting stays in place were it is supposed to. You can check your crank for play by hand to get a ballpark figure if bottom bearings are ok. Rotate one side to top dead center. Grab the rod on that side and lift up and down on it(don't let the crank rotate)if you have play, you have problems. Check the other side the same way. Side to side play is ok. But again, you'd be a fool to not split it open and have your crank checked out, and trued and welded since it is out.($75 at most shops). I don't necessarily think it caught an exhaust port. As Dajogejr mentioned, Possibly deto. Here is a nice little chart to add to your favorites. I don't see on that matches your condition well on here, but nice to have around. http://www.mztech.fsnet.co.uk/workshop/wrk_piston.html

That's a guy w/a taste for beer! :thumbsup:

Do they come w/filters as well? If so, it is not bad. You will probably be able to find a set for $250ish though.

The shorter rod will actually allow the motor to rev out faster. I personally run the +4 stroker w/+5 rods. I agree the long rod won't do shit for power increase though.

You can run a spacer plate if you want to go cheap. Then you won't have to worry about cutting domes or having your cyls. re-ported. Otherwise, just as Banshe-man put it. If you are going w/a Hot Rods crank, get one from a builder that is already welded, and tz and or Max load bearings already swapped out. It will be cheaper than buying a crank from say a magazine vendor, and sending it off to pay and have the work done. Hot rods cranks are known to be a little shaky in stock form when you start to put the power and compression to them so these mods in my mind are a MUST!

350 Twin, where have you drank hoegarden??? Went to Belgium, the Netherlands, and France last year and my girlfriend loved that stuff. I liked the Chimey Blue myself, but I am a fan of any beer w/flavor. I went to an international beer festival while I was in Brussels and talk about beer conisouers(spelling?), they have a glass for every beer made and you must drink that particular beer out of its particular glass. There were 250 different beers for taste at this festival, so you can imagine the amount of different glasses sitting everywhere. Best beer festival I will probably ever go to though! My personal normal favorite is Newcastle. Good shit!

If you paid attention to dajogejr, he not only told you they don't do anything for power, but told you they can actually harm your engine. DO NOT RUN ONE! I don't care how pretty you think more clutter is.

A good straight castor oil(927, Benol, etc.) 24:1.

If it is a normally open teather, use the two wires from the kill switch(I want to say black and black/white, been a while though, someone correct me if I am wrong). Have to splice the key switch wires together and leave them. The method banshe-man described is for a normally closed.

Key it up truckracer! I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree!

Can't look at the pics. Need to set the permissions so we can.

Ride mainly at Silver Lake. I'm from Battle Creek, my girlfriend is from Owosso as well. How old are you?

Why do we think a choke makes the ckt richer, and you usually need to use the choke in the winter???????? Also, Kubiac3, rich/lean is not a ratio of oil to fuel, it is a ratio of air to fuel. So what actually happens when you add more oil and use the same jets, you get less fuel which would actually cause your bike to run leaner. Boy, this thread is all F'd up.

I disagee. I bet there is just as much varience for a $20 part in the machining. I would go w/the plate. Besides, what if you want to change the timing?

There is no rev limiter. And I agree on the domes. W/the combination you are running I wouldn't go more than 18 or 19. You can really hammer on the top end performance and that much compression gets to be hard on crank, bearings, rods... Did you ever have the crank welded?

Take a pic of your pistons w/rings still on and post them. Can help you determine the cause so this doesn't keep happening. At this rate you are going to need to resleeve or buy new cyls very soon. Have you split the bottom end before? Also w/as many problems as you've had I would do a leakdown test when you get it back together before you ever start it.

Help me out here, 40 deg. celcius difference works out to be how much of a difference in Farenheit? They are not linear are they?

You are pretty close to pushing it where you are at. You may get away w/it, I am not sure I would risk it though.