sheefreak

Merry Christmas BFS. Was just thinking the other day that I hadn't seen you around lately.

I believe they are noteably lighter as well!

Here is some good info on 2-stroke oils from an unbiased source. Read backcountry's post on the first page: http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf.../0/fpart/1/vc/1

I like the Klotz and Benol in my opinion is very comparable to 927. I personally like the Supertechniplate(20% Benol, 80% synthetic), I think it burns cleaner. I used to run benol, and switched to the techniplate 3 yrs ago and have had no problems.

I would be interested in going, I have only met JT in person at Silver Lake. Maybe us michigan guys (JT, Dave, 87sheerips, etc.)could hook up and caravan, if not consolidate. I vote for August, but I can try to make April. Oh, and Bigboy, I love Cuervo Black!!!

The dyna is very sensitive to "noise" and that is why it requires a resistor plug. I can't technically explain the process but kind of like unwanted alternator wine on a car stereo. The resistor plug sort of acts like a filter.

I'm not too sure why someone would want to raise the clip on a piped Banshee, but I would richen your middle up one notch. Can't hurt anything anyway. As far as lightswitch though my man, that is what a Banshee is all about. Takes a man to make one go like it is supposed to. Did you previously own a 4-poke?

I would run race fuel, or get some new domes so you can run pump gas(21cc). Either way, bump the timing, you will like the results.

Free Bump. Clean bike for $1800 guys!

You need to take a puppy that age outside a lot. Every half hr if possible. Make sure you make a huge deal of it when they go outside..big praises. Do you cage train? That will help w/everything. Some people say it is cruel, but that dog will not go in his cage. My dog see's his cage as a safe place. She has never gotten in trouble for anything she has ever done in there. When she would have an accident, we would put her in her cage for 20 to 30 minutes. Then take her straight outside. If she go's outside she is alowd to hang out again. If she won't go, then we put her back in her cage. Keep repeating until she goes. They'll get the idea pretty quickly. As far as chewing goes, if you don't have the time to constantly supervise them while young, it will be hard to stop. When they start chewing on something, tell them no and immediately give them something they are allowed to chew on. Tell them how good they are once they start playing w/the toy. Again, if you don't have the time to watch them, then you can't catch them in the act and is harder to punish a dog and actually be doing any good. Dog will just think you are crazy. When our pups are that young, they are in their cage if we can't watch them. Some pups up to about 6 to 8 months, but don't usually have problems after that. One more thing that has helped our dogs chew on what they are supposed to is put all their toys in a basket or someting like that and always keep them in that location. They will get to know that there, and only there is where they can grab things to chew on and play with. Just don't accidentally drop something you don't want them to chew into the basket......I know from experience. I'm not in any way saying these are the only ways to train a dog, but they've worked for me. All the time people tell me how well my pit bull is behaved.

Hope everything works out for the best. Have faith and keep strong. Remember, you and your wife need to stay strong composure wise as well. Your daughter will be all the better off assured she is ok!

All starting to come together now... too late unfortunately. But now you know! :cool:

Not sure how this question came up on this thread, but anyway... The bowls will bolt to either carb. I can't remember which has the ball but I want to say it is the right side bowl. To check though, spray some carb cleaner down the hole(in the bowls)that the copper tube would fit into. If it sprays out somewhere else, that is the bowl that goes on the choke pull side. The other bowl will spit the carb cleaner right back in your face, so whatch out! :biggrin:

Paddles depend on the the length of swingarm as well as the amount of power. If he were just going to drag it, and going for a more controllable consistant launch, he could run a 10 and that would require more paddle to hook up w/the longer swinger.

It's not the float bowls. Too much fuel does not cause oil to spew out the exhaust pipe. Chevy, when you pull that pipe off, be ready, oil will dump out of it. Since you are going to be in the bottom end, I would as well suggest to weld and true the crank. Whoever you send it to for that can swap out bearings for you if necessary. If you plan on adding some major power down the road, you may as well pay the extra money and get the TZ and maxload bearings, or 2 TZ's if you really want insurance. I don't know of a bearing kit, but just check them all for smooth operation. Replace as necessary. I would also think about replacing the plastic impeller w/billet and possibly a pancake bearing.

15/41 or 42 will work great w/that setup! Toomeyshee, I agree you should not go above the 14. If you like to drag race at all you will have to stand on the handlebars to get the weight off the tires just so you can launch.

+8 would be perfect. I run a Stock cyl, 4 mill, drag port that dynod at 85 horse. I run 15/42 gearing, +6 swinger, 9 paddle b2b, 69 rollout haulers. I am skyward every launch, but I usually don't have to let out of it. The four will definately not work. Only problem w/the +8 is that it gets a hair excessive for duneing. I would run +8, 10 paddle, 15/41 or 40 to try and keep it as duneable as possible.

Sounds like the TORS. I am assuming your parking brake isn't on because it has been intermittent. Take and unplug the little black box under the gas tank and that will eliminate the TORS system.

Don't buy a plug lock!!!! If your sparkplugs are rattling loose it is from detonation. I have had my spark plugs back out before any real damage occured, you run a plug lock, and you might not have a clue.

Yes.

Noone said that you needed to run both. Actually I thought that you were implying that you need both. I am not sure where you are getting that the 795's make up for 2mill. They make up for the long rod, not stroke. As I mentioned before, if you run the 110 rods instead of the 115's(longrod)on your 4 mill stroker you don't need the 795's. I can't answer your question on the spacer plate as I have never run one. Are you sure they are 4mill? Never touched one, let alone measure one.

Upload your pics to a web hosting site like www.photobucket.com(there are many others). Then just copy the URL and paste on your post, reply, PM, etc....

Your extra stroke on top and bottom are still taking place above the casses.

I am confused by what you are saying about the spacer plate and domes. You only have to run one or the other. But if you run the domes, then your port timing needs to be addressed. The pin location of the 795 series piston is different to compensate for the longer rod. If you run just the stroker w/the 110 rod, a 795 series piston is not needed and the option for either a spacer plate or domes and port work remains the same. I think we are confusing the poor guy.

The worthless overflow reservoir on your bike is about perfect for perging. Just hook a strap to it and hang it from your handle bars when ready to perge. Hook it up, start her, and blow smoke. Shut her down, take it off, hook the fuel line to your tank back up.