blowit

If you have not opened the trans., sounds like you will need to. I am thinking you may have a broke or slipped circlip or severely bent shift fork. The problem should be easy to find if it is actually locking up. Something is wondering off. Brandon

Without seeing it, it sounds like either bent shafts or damaged teeth. If you spin the shafts when in the case and they have a hard spot in turning, there is something wrong. Also, if you have any radial slop in the shift fork pins, that will cause them to bind under load. Brandon

Fire head, have you put much thought into alternative fuels or even electric? Our biggest obstacle with electric is batteries and aerodynamic coefficients for the average truck or SUV. The old design is to make a rolling barn door to bring in good air to the radiator. Obviously making a truck slippery will be a feat in itself. Every time I see fuel go up, I am getting closer to having an engineering pow wow to come up with something else. In electric, The cost effective choice is lead acid but I am just not sold on 100yo technology. I am waiting to see slow discharge capacitors or something. Any thoughts? Brandon .

You may check to see if you have radial play in the LH side of the crank. The LT500s are known for ruining the case and causing slop in the main bearing . Many install sleeves in the cases to prevent this. If you have play, it will cause some oil leakage in the cover as well as an air leak and lean condition in jetting. Brandon

Not trying to be an ass here but taking a few extra minutes to proof read your posts can really help so much. Periods, commas, questions marks, separate paragraphs, it all helps sooo much! I am no where near an English major but reading some of these posts, it gets tough when all words are jumbled together. I understand some are not good with English. There are plenty of spell checks out there to assist and there should probably be one on the site. Some rules of thumb that might help are: 1. 5-7 sentences per paragraph. 2. commas are used separate ideas or thoughts in a sentence. They are also used to indicate a pause for the reader. There are plenty of rules for commas but at least trying to use them will help. 3. Question mark after any sentence asking a question. The list goes on but please just make an effort to punctuate your posts. Thanks.

You may also want to post up your engine mods, if any, and fuel grade you run. A powdered look on the piston is generally detonation but can be induced by the heat of pre-ignition. Tough to say without knowing more but I would be on timing or jetting issues. Brandon

Yep, split em. And make a mental note of how many grams of funk you take out of there. The biggest problem is how ever you clean it, you will push crap in the bearings without a case split. If you want to get a new crank, take the easy way. Brandon

K, I think "wood" will have to become one of those "lock box" words for forum users. Replacement word unknown as of yet. I only have about 5 things that give me "word unknown" and they do not come on a Banshee chassis. :biggrin: Brandon

Easy there big fella. What you do in your private life with a Banshee is your business** :biggrin: Brandon

I would say where you get into trouble is when things need "tuned" and if you are unfamiliar with what needs "tuned" and how, you may always run a turd that lacks in power. PVs are something that show be offered on every single two stroke across the board. No they are really not needed for drag racing but the drag racing group is rather small in numbers compared to rec riders. For drags, simply block it, or pin it open, problem solved. I would say the RZ swap is one of the easiest things mechanically. Electrically, not that bad either but working through problems can bite you in the ass and good luck with many repair guys on fixing what you did! Your mess, you clean it up. Most of the modern PVs use a simple spring actuator to open on pressure. Though that is an inferior design to the electronic stuff, it seems to work pretty well. I think Yamaha was WELL before it's time with the electronic PV. Now if we could make the engine as efficient as a diesel, the PV would take a STRONG upswing in technology. As a matter of fact, the modern 4 poke cars have taken from this technology with the V-tec in the Honda line and so on. Variable valve timing is a sweet thing. Many OEMs recognize it but have to look at the bottom line and try not to raise the price of your new car by 5K to supplement the trick features. If you are looking for a woods motor, Look no further than a woods port with a 2-1 pipe and single carb. That is the only way to do them IMO. The PV could help but doubt it would be worth the effort. Now if you want a woods motor than can dune with the best, that is when the PV will help. Brandon

Ha, I totally agree! The biggest reason we created our own software is because we had no equations as to how this mysterious data was being calculated. WOW! look at those numbers! Now what the hell do they mean?? I know many here can grasp the concept but how many have bought software and went "shit, now how does this make my bike faster?" Brandon

From here it does. Brandon

If you did not pay specific attention to the pilot jets, take the LH carb apart again. We generally have to put a piece of wire in the jet to clear it. Brandon

I am not sure why you are trying to make your own when there are stroker domes available everywhere? Anyway, the machines Fire Chicken is referring to would commonly be found in many newer ISO certified machine shops and manufacturers. A CMM is a coordinate measuring machine used to accurately dim parts and compare part to model or drawing. I think casting is the easiest way out for you or simply use the slutty methods. They would work fine for this application. Brandon

Resistive loads (aka-light bulbs) do not care if power is AC or DC. DC will not make a bulb brighter but a decrease in resistance will. The battery will help sustain power at lower rpms and act as a DC capacitor to smooth ripple voltage that you would see as pulsing at idle. The biggest changes in over all light output will be increased wattage of the bulb or increase size and reflective properties of the housing. Bigger is better. Brandon

I think it was already posted to "measure" the stroke. I little harder with the topend off but doable. TDC and BDC meaurements will tell you the stroke regardless of how the cylinders are setup. Brandon

You have undoubtedly damaged the trans and you will need to removed the engine and tear it down. You may either pull the topend apart during the R&R or carefully remove only the bottom case and allow the topend to stay intact. Either way, you will need to open it up. I wish I could give better news but this sounds like a classic gear, shift fork problem possibly from forcing shifts a bit too hard. I recommend getting a Clymer manual and read up. The longer you use the bike, the more costly it may be from increased damage toll. Good luck. Brandon

The OEM will gap the plug at the factory to meet many bike requirements. The banshee plugs are typically set at .028" which is in the window for a stock Banshee. When you start increasing the state of tune of a bike or changing fuels, ignitions, etc, plug gap requirements change. It takes more time for voltage to jump a larger gap than a small one so timing and gap go hand in hand at times. Many bikes will run fine without gapping the plug correctly but they will just run a bit better with gapping. I will let others explain other reasons but simply checking the gap form the factory is a good precaution. Brandon

The answer is yes, but it will run like crap consistently and generally cause an out of balance condition. If you are suspecting a spun crank, you will need a dial indicator and degree wheel. True TDC will be found off one cylinder with the indicator, reset degree wheel to zero, spin crank 180* and hope that is TDC for the other side. Brandon

That compression does not scare us in the least. Over 250 is hot! If you are just rec riding, I would advance it to +4. If you want the best bottom end, push it to 6-7*. Your race fuels really need advance anyway to make better use of the fuel. No need to remove those domes. You are fine. You are also set if you port later. Brandon

All I can say is if you are not watching your port-time area or degrees of open duration, you are shooting blanks. Measurements do not mean much if you do not calculate that into open degrees. That is where you will understand what the motor will and won't do for you. Achieving better bottom end performance is obtainable but requires someone that knows porting and not a winner on the guessing network channel. The things that will determine good bottom end are comp ratio, squish angle and clearance, port timing, port velocity, carb size, pipe selection, reed selection, and ignition advance. If you want all bottom end, there will be a compromise so you will have to set goals. You will want FMF fatties, PT mids, or a two into one pipe for good grunt.

There ya go. Let those meters be your guide. Honestly, you showed the aptitude to figure it out, just needed to walk away for a while. As mentioned, we use certain tools to find problems like this but are not common in the garage shops. Simply checking continuity in every wire can generally get you on the right page. You bet that high resistance combined with such low amperage will equal, no flow. Glad you found the problem. Hopefully you can share the wealth of experience someday. Brandon

Any luck? Did you find a scope? Brandon

Do NOT weld on that gear!! Work hardening will likely bite you in the ass. If you try to anneal, you lose all heat treat and gear turns to mush after one ride. options are to run the gear with some grooming on the tooth or replace the gear. Personally, I would replace as if that tooth makes change, you can cost yourself more than that gear is worth in beer to fix it!! Brandon

Send me a PM with your number and I will give you a buzz. We can find it. I will supervise with my cell phone! Brandon