FireHead

You'll have to come up and run that thing against my big block Twister. :thumbsup:

If I were to name that pipe, I would name it Sheila......... :biggrin:

It's only $600 id you don't but the center caps. With the center caps, it's more like $700. .............I have some problems, but I am beyond help. :biggrin:

Yes sir, however I found out how to take the thing apart from a guy on PS, and upon doing that I found the o-ring on the leaking side to be twisted. I put a new o-ring in there and now she's as good as new. I bought new valve in the interim as I did not know if I was ever going to be able to fix this one when I didn't know how to take it apart, so now I don't need this one. :thumbsup:

Good question...............I'll send them an email. :geek:

http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZfirehead696969 Here is some stuff I am selling. :thumbsup:

The Hardkor units are anodized and expensive....................if I have to remove a logo in that case, someone from Hardkor needs to show up in the box with the hubs so I can reinstall the logo on their ass. Brad, Two things: 1.) It's nice to see you back around here again. 2.) Where can you buy the RPM hubs from?

Maybe it was 4:20 when the guy made the auction listing............. :biggrin:

If they're shiney, just make sure you are clothed when you take the pictures.................

I am looking to buy a set of aftermarket hubs for all four corners of my red bike. I like the Hardkor parts at the link below, but the logo on the center cap is bothering me............ http://www.hardkorengineering.com/Resultsu...Honda%20TRX250R The LSR hubs are neato for the fronts, but their rear hubs don't really match the fronts. Are there any other hubs out there that anyone likes or knows good things about?

Search this forum on this topic. I believe there are a few good threads already on this topic out there............. :geek:

A normal reed opening and closing event, assuming the reeds are not worn out and have not broken, should not be audible. It happens too quickly to make a discernable sound. If you can hear them, there is more than likely something wrong. A simple brank case compression test should tell the tale......... :geek:

In the aftermarket realm of Banshee parts I think Dan Hull, K&T, Dave Moore, and possibly a few others are having shift forks with bearings in the fingers ,ade somewhere. An RZ350 fork has a similar feature and they are direct bolt-in parts on a Banshee. The only down side to the RZ350 forks is that the bearings in the fingers are less than stellar (more of a bushing than anything else). However, IMO, they are still better than OEM Banshee forks. As for magic that I have done myself, that last shift fork design I conjured had very nice shielded roller bearing in the fingers and the bearing axle was supported on both sides of the bearing. This design was Banshee inspired, but would not bolt right in to Banshee cases. The design was for a Banshee-esque triple cylinder engine that was mostly one-off in it's design. Given a testing and manufacturing outlet, I would be willing to meld this design into a Banshee application and basically give it away, but I think it might be a product that is too far outside of a normal racers budget. :geek:

Word. Once the money is sent, you are pretty much stuck squeezing a guy like that for the parts you bought. Publicly parking a car in his ass is about the only way to sort things out past a certain point. :ermm:

Word. Another danger you can run into with using silicon is that it will almost always have a different property set than the o-ring material and in extreme cases, that can cause the o-ring to shrink, twist, or break during heating and cooling cycles. :geek:

You are probably going to want to have your rear shock reworked or atleast resprung. If you don't do that, your bike will be very soft and mushy in the rear..............and bottom out alot. It's make things even worse if you are a bigger guy. :geek:

I think that guy might just be one of those eBay swingarm makers. All you need is a garage and some JB Weld, then you can make arms and sell them to everyone. :shoothead:

Vasoline also tends to be more soluable in coolant. Grease will tend to coagulate, float around, and clog breather lines. :geek:

That's correct. :thumbsup:

I couldn't have said it much better myself.................

That is correct. The choke fuel circuit only draws from one bowl and that jet meters it. :geek:

Oh yeah, I was thinking of putting one somewhere else on the drum. Sorry for the brain fart. Cascade and a bunch of other folks also sell those bearings. They are a nice thing to put on the first time you wplit your cases. Flaming performance is about right when it some to Alba.................those guys suck. :biggrin:

There is a reason no one makes those................ It's a fuse in the waterpump drive. If something breaks in there, then it doesn't take out everything else under the clutch cover. Plus, plastic gears are cheaper and quieter than a bronze or steel gear. :geek:

PM Sent.

It's not bearings on the drum................it's bearings on the fingers of the shift forks, that are the way to go. :thumbsup: