FireHead

Damn Straight. :thumbsup:

It's grey. :thumbsup:

If everything that makes up the crank (weights, pins, etc.) is true and running parallel, there shouldn't be enough of a difference for a spin balancer to pick up. The last time this topic came up, I took a couple old stock cranks to work, trued them and tried to balance them and I never could get the machine to tell me to take material off inorder to balance it. It's pretty much the best balancer out there and it gets recertified every three months, so it's a safe assumption that it was working properly. :thumbsup: I assume people have seen Banshee cranks that have been balanced because someone took it down to their local NAPA machine shop and had some pothead beat it apart, rebuild it, and then throw it on their crapmatic balancer simply because that's what they do with "all" crankshafts. That's just my theory though.

Worst case it's probably only 240 degrees F. Water that hot just tickles, I swear. :biggrin:

Does any one have a 3D CAD model of a stock or modified banshee frame? I figured I'd better ask y'all before I spent all day measuring and making my own model.

The link doesn't work for me either. As long as you get a tool that's diameter range is in the middle of what you want to hone and has 3 or more stones, you should be ok. There are different roughness stones, but unless you're doing something sketchy like honing out a gouge, what you get probably doesn't matter. :thumbsup:

The case saver is a must have. The lock nut is nice, but not necessary if you use loctite on the OEM nuts. The inline coolers are pretty silly in my opinion. Other people will chime and say that they lowered their operating temperature, but from an engineering and physics standpoint, they just do not have enough surface area to do any appreciable cooling. Your money would be better off being spent on something usefule like a billet water pump impeller. :thumbsup:

Because the engine is a twin cylinder with a flat plane crankshaft it is inherently dynamically balanced. Therefore you don't need balance it with a bob weight mass like you would need to 4 plane crankshaft engine. All that needs to be done is to have it trued for runout. :thumbsup:

What are you planning on doing for pipes? I was thinking of trying to keep it all in the frame, but that means a really special canter pipe that would go over the top of the motor. It has finally sunk in that this motor is not going to make it in my red bike, so it will all depend on what sort of hillshooter frame I wind up buying. :: Like I said, I am making much of the engine myself, hence the low dollar total. Of course, I am not making the stuff that doesn't make sense to make like pistons, power valves, reed valves, clutch basket, intake boots, kick starter, etc.

Yeah, I'd give them a call. My bumper and grab bar fit pretty well. :thumbsup:

Direct Drive makes alot of things from new die cast side covers, to the lockups, to the conversion kits for a stock cover. They are good guys. If you have any qustions, just give them a call. :thumbsup:

It sounds like the white collar might be worn out. Post up some pics or some video so that we might be able to help better. :thumbsup:

It sounds like you just need to make more money (j/k). It's hard to put a real dollar value on wish list since I am making most of the parts for my triple. I think it's going to wind up being around $2500 in cash, but who knows if you were to count my time and my company's machines and tools. I just about pooed myself last month when I ordered the stock for my cases and cylinders. Additonally, I am not sure what the heat treatment and nitriding is going to cost for my crankshaft and transmission, so that might kick up the price a bit if I can't get the parts run through for free with someone else's batch of stuff.

That sounds interesting. I am not very artistically minded, so I'll have to see it when you're done inorder to tell if i like it or not. :thumbsup:

I have a pneumatic saw made by Ingersol that I used to use. Now, I just buy Fullbores.

Alot of the CAD/CAM packages have sent out email stating that they will not be able to work with Vista for the time being. Until they catch up I will be using XP. :thumbsup:

Usually if the arms use ball joints and not heims, you will not have to ream the spindles.

I think it's RIPPEN that has one of those gauges. :thumbsup:

That's what I like to here. The folks at Dyna are goo workers. :thumbsup:

Is it weird that you want to see their balls? :biggrin:

If I remeber correctly I always just grabbed the thing with a big pair of channel lock pliers.

Sorry..........I read clutch area and thought of the right side. If it's coming from the left side, I would definitely pull the stator cover off and check it out. I am not really sure what would be humming on that side though.

Good explanation. I have been very happy with the several units that I have used of theirs. :thumbsup:

I had a stock water pump impeller take a crap on one of my bikes a few years ago and it sounded like that.

TCS does good work. They get all of my business. :thumbsup: