FireHead

That's not really how it went down is it? Come on tell the truth............ Was it more like the mods. deleted your post because they saw what you were doing over here? I think that sounds a bit closer to reality, but hey check with them, have them call me a liar. I bet they won't. :thumbsup:

I found that the amount of top ends and carburetors that I was rebuilding was directly proportionate to the amount of beer I was drinking when I was packing up the bike to go home.

If you have a Boeing surplus outlet any where near you, just go there with some calipers and thread pitch gauges. You can do pretty much a complete set of graded titanium fasteners for under $20 if your willing to take the time to sift through the bolt bins. The only bolts I haven't found yet are my upper, inner a-arm bolts, swing arm bolt, and a couple others that I am sure that I am forgetting. Now all I have to do is start putting them on the bike, which hasn't happened yet in just over a year, so who knows when I'll get to it. ::

Easy CD Creator :thumbsup:

It depends on what type of Hauler we are talking about. Not only does Skat Trak offer several variations of blades they also offer several variations of carcasses. You won't see RMATV selling all of those options, but you may run into if your are shopping with Sand Tires Unlimited or Fullerton Sand Tires. With that said, a normal Hauler carcass that is only buffed once across the crown are based on a 2 ply Cheng Shin or Nankang carcass. Since they have been buffed, it is pretty hard to call them a 2 ply tire anymore. You won't see anyone other than someone selling a molded sand tire listing a ply rating along with it. Skat Trak builds a damn tough tire no matter what. It's not really something you need to worry about. :thumbsup:

I agree. :thumbsup: However, I will complain about it because I am a fat, lazy, bastard. ::

I hope I made that clear in the book I just wrote above. :thumbsup: As for the mixing of race gas with pump gas, it is perfectly fine to do. However if you want a quantifiable octane rating to identify the fuel mixture you have in your tank, the mixing the two won't get you that as it would have to go through an octane testing method to get that. What I am trying to say is that you can't add 110 octane unleaded to 92 octane unleaded in equal parts and get a fuel that 101 octane. Our fluid engineer at work would probably also verbally abuse me for saying that it is perfectly fine to mix pump gas with most race fuels as the race fuel is made from a different hydrocarbon string than pump gas. However, while may not chemically make sense to do so, it does work in practice and effectively raise a fuel mixtures propensity to detonate. Another fun fact that I came up with while I was writing the book of a post above is that if you are having a small detonation problem with premium pump gas (92 octane or better) than you may want to try some different two stroke oils. The oil effectively raises the flash point of the fuel, thus it gains a bit in octane rating. The Castor based oils tend to raise the flash point higher than some of the synthetcs that are out there. :thumbsup:

On a similair note, in SoCal you can barely find a Banshee that is run into the ground for less than $2500. ::

If I remember correctly the gap is supposed to be something lik .02"-.03". Check a Clymer manual before gapping to the, but it seems to be the number for that gap that is rattling around in my head. :thumbsup:

While methonal is a fuel with a much higher flashpoint than gasoline, it only has about 2/3 the energy density of gasoline. You can blend it yourself or buy it blended. Anything with more alcohol than M20 (20% methanol) you will have to start dealing with the all of the parts of alcohol that are a pain in the ass. Methanol is a hydroscopic liquid meaning that it attracts water, which means that no matter how you blended it, you will need to purge your bike when you are done riding. Also because of this, the fuel has a very short shelf life. Some misinformation that is out there involves the term "alcohol." Alcohol tends to be used as a blanket term to desribe methanol. ethanol, and several other variants of the fuel. The main difference being that ethanol is a distilled fuel and methanol is a refined fuel. Fuels in this family are given a designation such as M80 or E80 which identifies the as being 80% methanol and 80% ethanol respectively. The remaining 20% of the fuel in this example would be made up of gasoline, additives, and chemical impurities from the manufacturing process (this sort of fuel designation is similair to the designation of biodiesel if you are familiar with that). If it were me making the decision, the biggest issue you have is that you all of a sudden have atleast 1/3 less range on a tank of fuel. If your ding area is small or you don't ride all day long then it might not be a big deal for you. This can be offset with an oversize fuel tank as well. This also means that you need to take alot more fuel with you when you go riding. Purging a fuel system isn't that big of deal if you allow for an easy connection of an external fuel source on your bike (BigRed350X had pictures up in the Images Forum a while back). You really only need to do this when you are done riding for the weekend. If you don't do this, all of the aluminum that was contacted by the fuel will corrode very badly, steel parts will rust, and rubber parts will become dry and brittle. Depending on the outside temperature your bike may also be hard to start. If the temperature drops much below freezing, you will never get your engine started without preheating it. To take full advantage for an alcohol type fuel you would be looking at specially tuned/modified carbs, very samll cylinder domes (15cc or so), and some sort of programmable ignition of PVL ignition. If I were going to run methanol I would run M80 and deal with the consequences as that would be the performance vs. maintenance trade off point for me. I am not going to go out on a limb and speak to the issue smaller percentage blended alcohol fuels raising the octane rating of gasoline as there are many variables involved. I will say that blending in alcohol with gasoline will raise the octane of the fuel, but how much isn't something I am prepared to provide an answer for. I were the one asking that question, I would be buying a preblended fuel from a race fuel company who publishes that sort of data for their product line. I have run alcohol in the past and it is certainly the way to get the most out of your motor in respect to fuel, but I am lazy and am not interested in all the maintenance required at this point. I have a large tank of it outside my building at work which I have free access to and it is apparently still too much work for me. I am sure that my triple will probably wind up running on alcohol once the bugs are out of it. In case anyone was wondering what I am actually a big fan of fuel-wise for my bikes is Sunnoco 110 blended with Propylene Oxide at about 1000 ppm. :thumbsup:

I was on it this morning. I had heard from somebody that their database had become unstable and that they were going to be working for awhile to fix it. I don't know if that is true or not.

Your method appears to be good, and yes, you do each cylinder seperately. As for what the compression should be, it really depends on your porting as well as what size domes you have in the head. One of the other guys no here that have a similair motor to yours would probably be able to better answer that question. :thumbsup:

Definitely go shorter for MX use. On that note, I'll see if I can add a bit more to the discussion. A longer swingarm will tend to make a bike fly nose heavy when jumping. You really ought not to be jumping a Banshee with more than a +4 swingarm. I say this based on the geometry of the rear shock and linkage not being able to properly retard the additional kinetic eneergy that is created via the leverage of the longer swingarm.

I would tend to think that the Hydrodynamics shocks would be fine. Italian company that makes the shocks also make shocks for several other types of vehicles under several trade names. However, I did vote for replacing them with Elkas as I have dealt with them before and I feel they have a superior product. In the end, unless you are racing, you wouldprobably never feel a difference between the two shocks with the exception that one of the shocks will probably make your wallet lighter.

http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread.../gonew/1#UNREAD This guy is ridiculous. I posted a link to this thread over in one of his numerous PlanetSand threads regarding this same irem. He got all butt hurt about it all the while he and his buddy keep trying to play up how straight forward and honest they are. Apparently they are alot more tolerant of scams over on PlanetSand. It will certainly make me think twice about buying something from someone that I don't know over there.

I probably should know this, but who is this guy? I'm just curious. :thumbsup:

As there are a million variants of fuel out there that people with call AV gas whether it is correct to do so or not. You may have come across a variant that is not compatable with rubber fuel lines. :thumbsup:

I don't know about Walmart, but Checker and Pep Boys ought to have a reasonably priced tester for sale. :thumbsup:

I think you could be phsyciatrist ((sp?) becauseI am too lazy to look it up) or counseler for a living. :yelrotflmao:

Nothing else matters when whips, chains, whistles, yo-yo's, and a cron fed harvest mouse are involved.

You would be better off posting a picture of what you have than asking for measurements. Getting folks to measure things around here is like pulling teeth. If you post a picture I would be willing to bet that you would have an answer in the space of 5 minutes. :thumbsup:

The thing that I have found to be frustrating in the used shock market is that you have to trust the person selling them as to what they were actually setup for. For instance, they would need to know what sort of suspension they have, their weight at the time of purchase, riding style, etc. That is a challenge for alot of folks selling shocks on eBay especially if they bought the shocks at a dealer and had them installed there or they were not the first owner of the shocks.

As a warning to others who might not have figured it out yet, it's not always a good idea to be on the same page with me. I will use my stock Banshee carb => 33mm stock Banshee carb project from a few years ago as evidence along with the catastrophic failure of one of our Truck engines in Milwaukie a couple years ago (I mention that because it was brought up in a meeting this morning). :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I was going to mention that it is probably cheaper to just buy a stock HotRods crank, but I wasn't sure what it cost to have one rebuilt. Good call! :thumbsup:

Now, that's funyy. :yelrotflmao: