FireHead

................and this thread has just reached a new low.

Specifically, I think you will find a fractured winding on one of the poles of the stator. :geek:

Atleast I got to post a funny picture out of this deal :laugh: .

Grade 1 Titanium has become a listed material within the last couple years. That is the proper material to make a Titanium axle out of. In other words, unles you are a defense contractor or are a huge multi-national company, you're not getting anf Grade 1 Titanium. I would be willing to bet that anyone selling a new Ti part for the recreational motorsport industry and claiming it is Grade 1 Ti, is kying and it's some other Southeast Asian grade of Titanium (definitely not uniform in composition). :geek:

One of the poles on the stator is bad. I'll bet your 10mil engine on it. :thumbsup:

I won't verbally abuse the guy too much. If he was just trying to buy joints from Ricky Stator, I would be willing to be that they only offer there joints in one meric size near that major diameter and pitch. So as long as he is within a the neighbor hood of the right diameter, he can probably choose the joints he needs. Now if he was making something to thread the joint in to, that would be a whole different story. I am sure I would wind up getting all worked up and typing a lecture on thread types, design, and manufacture methods. :thumbsup:

I think I might be embarassed to be associated with you guys. :laugh:

Nerd fight! :laugh:

Torque should be the same as on an OEM head a 20 ft/lbs. Even if you are only blowing only the one o-ring all of the things I mentioned earleir could still be true. :thumbsup:

I didn't know what you were talking about. Some of the people around here are fully capable of trying to run a coolhead with a paper gasket. You're not selaing for one of four reasons. 1.)The sealing surface are not true and parallel. 2.)You are pinching the o-rings in one way or another when you install the head. 3.)Cylinder head stud torque is incorrect. 4.)The o-ring grooves are messed up. :thumbsup:

Why are you using a gasket with a coolhead?

Ask Gimmeeabeer on here.

You are correct sir. That is why I have stopped working on the launch simulation spreadsheet I was working. Now, I am pretty much going to flip a coin between a +12" and +14" linakge style swingarm. If it winds up not working well, I will get a different arm of fool around with the Marvin Shaw nitrogen sprung shock I plan on using. :thumbsup:

I have been informed that you cannot save the videos from YouTube. That's gay.

PM me with what you want for it. I have another offer that I am probably going to take, but maybe I need a second one for a future project.

I didn't know LSR still made those. I guess you learn something new everyday.

You really do need that. The whole equation is bogus if you assume a 1.0 coefficent of friction. Changing the coefficient of friction by a couple of tenths wil wildly skew torque transmission through the lever by hundreds of pounds. Beyond that, there is essentially no practical case where you have a coeeficient of fristion that is 1.0. From what I understand, a smooth racing tire under labratory conditions will only establish a coefficient of friction of 0.98 on a tire dynamometer.

I agree with regard to your statement about preload adjustment. A larger diameter srping does not necessarily mean it has a higher spring rate or load capacity. It actually depends on many things such as material, heat treat, wire diameter, spring diameter, wind pattern, etc. :geek:

The front of my frame is stretched. I think Ihave narrowed my choices down to between a +12" and +14" linkage style swingarm. :thumbsup:

Those temperature indication strips are great. We use them at work all the time. You just need to make sure whatever surface you are putting them on has been cleaned with acetone first, otherwise they will fall off. I am not sure that I would expect to read the stickers while you are riding. :thumbsup:

That link was the actual link I was looking for when I posted up the other d-arm link. I am not sure if they are the stock width or not. I also don't know much about the aftermarket d-arms other than there are not many around and that if I had a j-arm frame, I would think I needed a set of d-arms. :thumbsup:

I think you may need some more Ani-Gifs in your signature.

That is one way I tried to make my problem a little more black and white. I think the big unknown for me is what the coefficient of friction between the tires and the sand is. If I were able to put a good number to that, then everything else is really easy. :geek:

The problem is that I can make a case for anything between a +10" arm to a +14" arm. I really don't know how to sort it out much past that.