racer

Ooooooooo, I like safety wire. That's a good idea.

www.wiseco.com fast, reliable

Cool, Ill pick up some screws to plug those holes. Unless someone else has a better idea........

Do you think that PC will run ski free? It may be lacking some space. ha, wow.

I do, but they aren't metric. I have American fine and coarse up to half inch, and most of them are high performance gun taps. :-) So if ya ever need one.......... I know my bike probably won't idle with out them, but I dont want it to idle. I lost one of my old screws on the dunes once and the idea of an open hole in such a place does not make me happy. So I'll sit on my bike while it warms up and plug the whole. The .75 thread pitch looks to be about right, it looks to fine to be 1.00mm. Thanks guys.

Anybody know what size of tap is included with the kit? I'm going to block off the holes where the idle screws go with a bolt and crush washer. I don't trust them.

Good advice for setting electrical gaps on all kinds of engines. I prefer business cards as I have more of those laying around.

Good to see you around yamahammer.

I'm just glad that he typed out what FMF means to all the bro's. Nitrous is the boost bottle I know of that works.

Then who would mow the lawn? haha j/k.

Maybe they should temper those things and put a lil ductility back in them.

I don't think the wrench brand matters, unless its anything cheaper than a craftsman. this could be kinda make or break so I wouldn't toss on a crappy harbor chink tool. yes, it's 12mm.

Who needs an excuse? ha. Ya, no centers drilled in the pins for me. Shit.

That's what I thought was going on. Did I miss something?

That is what I needed, thanks Mark. I went and reread over the posts about truing in a lathe, and it's something I can definitely do. I am just getting around to it because splitting my case isn't an everyday occurrence. Now about the degree wheel, I can't touch off on a pin because the rods are on there. Are there any other suitable places?

Come on guys..........

I do like all these guys do, but a lil better. use a vacuum machine, but bleed every joint, not just at the caliper. So for my setup that's once at the master, three at the tee, and one at each caliper. Plus if you get SUPER frustrated, let it sit for along time. Almost never got my Galfers bled, but I let them sit for a while and eventually the air rose to the top and then bam! light switch braking.

I want to know the same thing. What surfaces do you indicate on? How do you check the phase? Why are boobs good? haha. But seriously I would like to know the first two things. I'm a machinist with access to a well tooled shop so anything of that nature is a non-issue, I just need to know where to put the indicator stylus.

the stock crank's webs are not keyed, however the PTO and flywheel mounts are.

i see that youre case is busted, but watch the language a little. fuk shit damn is not a title that's very conducive to help.

have someone hodl on to the bushings as you move the tire. if the bushing is motionless, its the BJ

good to hear. thanks duner. Tyler, you need to learn some machines dude. You could make some money doing this shit.

Sometimes we drive around campus and throw cups of water on people just to be jackasses. You should look into something like that, it's a hoot.

Not happening dude, not able to be serviced.

Does anyone have a good way to resurface the bottom mating surface? I'm thinking of making a face plate to put in a lathe chuck and doing it that way. If I did it well enough I could probably bore with it also. Also does anyone ever match the height of their cylinders? Mine were a little off so today is lapped them both to exactly the same height (meaning head sealing surface and case sealing surface are equidistant from each other). I think this may help the head seal a little better.