Banshee~

Hey mudcool, did daddy sell your all your bikes? Anyway, I think something is wrong with the valve because my friends blaster does the same thing.

Stock pilots are 25's. You are running really lean, you should be at a 270 main, 27.5 pilot. I would also get a K&N filter w/ adaptor plate from nossmachine.com.

WHY DO YOU HAVE CAPS LOCK ON? You know the banshee has a clutch lever right? The rear wheels wont move if you have it in first on flat ground. Yea you have to drain your tranny fluid.

What elevation? At sealevel I would say around a 340 mains, 27.5 pilots.

Is your airbox lid or snorkel off? Whats your elevation and temp?

Your running way lean. Im at 1000ft, sst's, K&N, and the lid off with 320 mains, 30 pilots, stock needle notch, and 2.5 turns out. Also, sst's like a fat pilot for some reason.

PM Holyman on here and he can fix your kick starter for about $15. Ive got some stock rear tires you might want $30 shipped.

What are you talking about? There isent a 6th notch on a stock needle, you might have a toomey needle. Im running a 320 main with pipes, K&N, lid off. What kind of elevation change did you do when you added the filter lid?

Google is showing OKC at 1276. All banshee's puke anitfreeze out once in awhile, because your engine is running hot, maybe lean. I have the same setup as you, but with fmf sst pipes/ same elevation and im at a 320main, 30pilot (sst's like big pilots), stock clip. If I was you I would atleast try at 310 main, stock pilot and see if it bogs at WOT. Your to big on the pilot, that is why your bike is doggy at 1/2-3/4 throttle. No, I dont live in norman, but that is where im going to go to college

I wouldent put anything under a 350 main in there with port work and clamp ons.

He is at 6000 ft and has some kind of port work, so im thinking around 130? If its backfiring could mean you lean, but I would drain your gas tank, clean your carbs, change the plugs, and get some new gas. You might as well put in the new jets while your carbs are off.

Go to a yamaha dealer with a 12mm wrench (keep in the palm of your hand or where it is handy). Walk around like your looking for a banshee on the showroom, but if someone asks if you need help....tell them your just looking around. Next, when you have located a banshee kneel down beside it where nobody can see what your doing (acting like your looking at the engine). Unbolt the kicker, pull it off, and put it into your pocket with your wrench and walk out. ...... just kidding with you. Try ebay or make a post in the "wanted" forum

You compression looks a little low, do you know what kind of portwork was done on the clyinders? Clean your filters real good and then try a 320 main jet, 27.5 pilots, stock clip postion, and the airscrews turned out 1.5 turns from seated. After you get that done, start it and dial in your airscrews. Let it idle for twenty seconds between changes. Start from 1.5 turns out and your looking for a crisp response from idle-1/8 trottle. Ones that is dialed in take it up the road pinned and see if its running better. If its bogging it rich if not try the choke trick (pull the choke out half way while your at WOT and if it bogs your rich or perfect on your mains/ if it runs better your lean on your mains). Do that until your main jet is dialed in, because if you dial in something at 1/2 trottle and then you change your mains it might screw that setting up.

Any mods on this bike? A little info would help you sell it faster. Send pics to [email protected] any trades?

Why would your put wheel spacers on +2+1 arms? They are cheap and could break if you jump alot. Get some +3 +1 arms and ditch the wheel spacer idea.

Is your airbox lid or snorkel off? What size domes are you running? The 300 main sounds about right for the lid off. What pilot, needle clip, are you running? Take it down the road in 4th, pin it and pull the choke out half way. If it runs better your lean. Go ahead and spary some carb cleaner around all the boots and your cross over tube and see what happens.

Thats what I use and it seems to work good, but you have to cut a little hole on each end for the air and have another person hold the other grip when you put the last one on. I dident and it flew off and hit my brother . Also you dont have to cut your grips to get them off, just shoot air in the hole on the and and pull the grip off.

front tire size 21-7-10 rear tire size 20-10-9

Heres a set on ebay, should go cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Laker-Custo...566295325QQrdZ1

With the 15t front, you should not spin out as much. What kind of tires are you runing? Start out in second and just nut up, pin it and drop the clutch

How close is that to arlington (sp?). Also im not from texas, so how long would it take to get to the show from arlington?

Here is a guide to rejet your main jets taken from BenBB's Jetting FAQ Start by making sure your Banshee is clean, specifically around the carbs. Turn the petcock "off" at the tank, and disconnect the fuel line at the first carb you're rejetting (do one carb at a time so that the bowls and/or slides don't get reversed). Remove the choke hose, located between both carbs (just on the other side of the choke knob on the left carb). Disconnect the bowl overflow line at the bottom rear of the carb. Using a small phillips-head screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp on the black rubber boot at the front & rear of the carb. Push the body of the carb rearwards, compressing the airbox boot, until the front of the carb clears the front reed cage boot, then twist the front of the carb outwards and pull the carb free of the airbox boot. Stick a rag on the top of the motor right under the carb to catch any fuel that's in the float bowl. Using the same small phillips-head screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the float bowl on (don't lose the two little metal guides for the overflow hoses). Gently remove the float bowl straight off the carb body; if it doesn't come off easily tap the sides with the end of a screwdriver, just don't pry on the gasket mating surface or pull it off at an angle. Once off, check the bowl gasket, it will usually stay stuck to the carb body but it doesn't hurt to check it for tears, or remove the gasket to clean it and the upper mating surface. After the bowl is removed, don't rest the carb on the motor, as you may bend the floats (the two roundish black plastic peices that were inside the float bowl). Right in the center of the carb body (below and between the floats) you'll see a hex-shaped brass thing: that's the main jet. Sitting around the main jet is a white plastic splash sheild, slide it off the main and note how part of it goes into the carb body; that passage is where the pilot jet sits. Use a 6mm nut driver to remove the main jet, be careful not to lose the brass washer under it. Now install the new main jet with the old washer, being careful not to overtighten the main jet. Slide the shield back over the main and into the pilot jet passage. Put the float bowl back on, tighten the four screws, make sure there's no dirt in the carb or boots, and put the carb back in the boots just opposite of how you took it out. Now do the other carb the same way, replace the choke tube and connect the fuel and overflow hoses, turn on the fuel and make sure fuel doesn't flow straight out the overflow hoses. If it does, the float valve is stuck open, just tap on the float bowls with a large screwdriver and they should close. The only thing I can add is to be very careful when takeing the float bowls off (you dont want to bend the floats) and when putting the carbs back, put the front of the carb into the boot closest to the motor first its alot easyier. Some other good jetting pages Troubleshooting Your Jetting How Carburetors Work What Is Jetting

Try 350-360 main, 27.5 pilot, stock needle postition, and start with the air screws 1.5 turns out. That should be a good starting point for you.

Try 270 mains, stock pilots and take the snorkel off of the airbox lid.

fmf gnarly will be better than fatties for trails, but I run sst's trail riding and have no problem.