J-Madd

Loosen chain, pull sprocket off, inspect/replace seal. <5 min job.

I just changed both of my 4 mils to 2-5 n down. Bought a new tranny for one that wasn't shifting that great, and took first gear out of the other. I imagine it will leave the line better with that heavy first gear gone.

300 ft = no need for a pump on most engines, imo. I'd say gravity is fine up to 610 cc for sure. After that, you may need a pump. For hill shooting or racing any farther than 300 ft, I'd say a pump is a good idea. Even for 300 ft racing, it won't hurt anything and is inexpensive (as mentioned.)

I have an extra crankshaft bearing to replace one I grenaded. I'm sorry I didn't take any pics. It looks just like the regular ball bearing that was on it, except on one side it is closed by a metal seal (it's not really sealed because there is no rubber, i just don't know what to call it.) The other side is normal and you can see the balls and cage. Can I run this? Also FYI: you must be sure the dowel/pins on stock type crank bearings are aligned correctly durnig assembly. I haven't put together a motor that even had those damn pins, but this particular 4 mil crank had them. We smashed the pins into the cases on the inner bearings and actually broke the outer bearing. I didn't think we torqued it down enough to cause that damage, but should've known something was wrong when the cases didn't just fall together

That's what I was thinking when I saw the pic.

Also - remove the radiator cap when pressure testing. If it leaks into the cooling system, it could still hold pressure if the cap is on.

Coolant in the combustion chamber is almost as bad as an air leak. It will lean out and detonate - leading the pitting you decribe. THe carbon is just from running it rich, not necessarily from the oil. No big deal. Just lightly smooth out any sharp edges on the pitted piston and dome and you should be fine.

Clutch slipping or lean main jet, imo. Edit: Most likely clutch. Make sure the cable is not too tight and the actuator is lined up on the case.

I'm thinking about trading at least one of my Dune chassis for a ridgid. The one in my sig has less than 10 passes on it as of today (will get more passes tomorrow, probably.) It's plus 8 or maybe 10 out front, with a +10 swinger. Its strutted now but I have the rear marvin shaw for it. It was built by Damian Cole (Black Label Chassis), aka quick16 on planet sand. The powder coat is called starburst and shifts color from green/purple with metallic orange flake. It weighs 270 lbs race ready with the wheelie bar. Not yet committed to trading this chassis, just checking interest.

Glad you got it out, but why does the rusty dowel pin bother you? Just wondering.

x3 on the oversized plug. They're less than 10 bucks at O'Reilly's. FYI you can also by a compatible stock replacement magnetic plug for about $5 also; as opposed to $15 for a Banshee aftermarket plug.

I've never lined them up intentionally.

I'm gonna say that's pretty lean. You have a dual feed powerjet on those carbs I assume? Nothing wrong with those plugs per se; but they may not read the same as the "es" plugs because the plating on them may be different (I think.) They cost 3 times as much and do resist fouling better; but won't net any hp increase though.

Did you take the hub or basket off before installing the new clutch and pancake bearing? If so, are both thrust washers installed? This wouldn't cause the adjuster to hit the cover, however.; but it would make the adjuster stick far out of the hub.

There used to be a pinned topic that showed how to calculate the number of links needed for a particular length swingarm, but I don't see it now. What all is done to your motor? 70 hp on gas will never equal 95 hp on alky. You don't get a 30% increase. More like 6 to 10%, I think. And yes, you can usually run taller gearing with alky vs gas. If it's not strictly a drag bike, you may wanna stay away from alky. You use about twice as much compared to gas. I can't help you on 1/8th mile gearing though.

I had that happen and replaced the reeds. It started running funny again and the old read had been regurgitated back into the intake. I doubt it could hurt much. Surely its softer than aluminum and will just be chewed up and exit the exhaust,...but then again, you may want to get some more opinions on this.

On a mildy modded Banshee - 14/41 or sometimes 15/41 for long, straight trails.

Only if you have the pistons in backwards I have no idea how that is even possible. You can't install a transmission incorrectly. It simply won't go together (in my experience.) If you do have something a little wrong, then it won't shift or spin freely. I dunno.

If it is wiseco there should be a series of letters and numbers. The last few numbers indicate the bore size. For example .........6650 would be a 66.5 mm bore; .............6675 would be a 66.75 mm bore. Just making these figures up; but you get the point.

Gear no longer needed. Thanks though.

Like it says in title. THanks.

I have ran alky that sat all winter in an unsealed container. It was just fine on the dyno and the track.

You'll be changing the tuned length of the pipe if you cut some of the stinger off. This could be good or bad, depending on your porting. Just throwing that out there.

I've used stock nuts and lots of yamabond on the threads with success. It will leak a little at first, then seal when it gets warm.

Engine details please.