J-Madd

Oh Dyna - yeah. I was referring to OEM CDI. I ran a launch limiter on a Dyna a couple times. The motor ate my reeds. PUt in new reeds and it spit one of the old reeds (that I thought had exited the exhaust) back though the new reeds into the intake. Strange.

Also, If you can make a billet tranny that doesn't eat shift forks every couple of passes, that would be awesome. Definitely a huge market for that.

2-5 neutral down full or dunable override would be the most popular. It's lighter to get rid of the first gear that is usually not needed. I run 1-5 dunable in my cubs and 2-5 full override in bigger engines.

It's the white o-ringed cover that goes over the shift drum on the outside of the case. I can't find it on the schematic and I can't find my Clymer's. I need one of these.

There is no rev limiter on a Banshee. Also, you can go faster just tuning what you already have, rather than spraying it as is. If you get it fine tuned (tires, gearing, jetting, etc.); then you can add the nitrous (as mentioned). Be sure and read up on getting the nitrous set up correctly before you spray. I don't have a clue about nitrous; I only run alky. And yes, that is kinda slow for 300 ft. A good running bolt on modded Banshee can probably run close to that in 300 ft. No offense.

Maybe the welding is the strengthen the dogs . The dogs on the 6th gear are probably rather small; and even much smaller once they're machined to a 45* (or whatever) angle. Is there weld on all fo them or just 6th? Will it shift into any of the gears? What do the forks look like?

The forks almost have to installed wrong if you cannot get the drum to turn without the transmission installed. Does the drum turn without the forks installed? Is something binding the drum?

Don't forget that it uses mineral oil, not hydraulic fluid. Good luck. My Magura slave cylinder took a crap after a few months. New cable and easy pull lever work just as good, imo. However, several people have had good luck with them.

If its 0* Celsius, I'd guess those are winter riding temps, surely no one rides when its much colder than that, but I dunno . Are you sure its running on both cylinders?

For drag racing a 392 Cub is a great motor (ported and tuned properly.) They're not so good out of the box. For trail riding,etc., they suck. As far as pipes - Shearers/CPIs/Vitos would be the only ones I would recommend. You can run others, but you're reducing the rpms that motor likes to acheive.

Is the connecting rod the weakest link in the rotating assembly? Don't know, just asking.

I would like more (friendly) discussion on the first part. There will be power loss as described, due to heat and friction. BUT if the crankshaft [thatturns the transmission - > that turns the sprocket -> that turns the chain-> that turns the rear sprocket-> that turns the axle and tires-> that move the vehichle on the road] spins, the tires will also turn a simple calculated number times per the gearing chart, regardless of power loss to the rear wheels. When the power loss occurs (due to the above examples) it will limit how fast the engine can turn, thus limiting how fast the tires can turn. The vehicle cannot slow down without the engine rpms slowing down, unless there are tires spinning, transmission slipping, sprocket or chain skipping, or cluth slipping. If I am wrong please give an example that goes against what I have described. My math and physics are rusty, so I could be looking at this situation all wrong.

The laws of physics CANNOT be proven wrong. Theorys can be proven wrong, however. You can use math to predict a certain outcome that may or may not come to be in real world testing; but what is being discussed hear is black and white. Engine RPMs are directly proportional to tire speed. Some ported Banshees will rev over 11,000 rpms in the overrev (past peak HP). THe power falls off, but if the engine actually reaches the overrev, the tires must follow.

Click There is it, but it just gave it away...er, uh, sold it. I even threw in the used pistons with windows. Those damn pistons are probably $300 new.

.....across the Pacific

Sounds like timing to me, but you said you covered that. I had a bad flywheel that would make the engine do just as you described. It looked fine, but I guess the key way was off. Check the squish, that'll help you figure out if you have the right pistons. The usual pistons for a 68 mm, stock crank Cub are unique pistons from Trinity (I have heard there is another piston out there that works for that combo but haven't seen it.) Wiseco 9768M06800

Also get rid of the front brakes, run blue label wheels (preferably spindle mounts up front) and buffed tires.

If the port work is good, I say that's possible. Well, wind resistance and weight are technically already figured in. If you going against a tornado and you weigh 350 lbs, you ain't gonna hit 10,000 rpms!

Sale pending on my 16 mil Cheetah. Going for $575 with used pistons, powervalves, and powervalve block-offs.

Oil change usually fixes that for me. The dogs will sometime gets burrs on them that have to be smoothed out, though. I had to take a tranny apart to fix that; but I still had issues when the oil got dirty (ATF type F.)

You can sometimes find a used turn key Cub motor (with lockup, override, etc.) for about $2500, then use the rest for pipes, carbs, suspension. Just a thought.

If you hit 10,000 rpms in sixth and your tires grew to 22 in, you could get close to 95 mph.

I just order half a dozen keys from bike bandit. I have also made my own out of a standard key. Bought one that was too big all around and just ground it down until it fit.

x2. You can run a modified stock head just fine on any cylinders that have that bolt pattern.

Tip #1: Get a wheelie bar and strut it. Tip#2: Post your mods so we can give you an idea of tire and gearing combo.