J-Madd

Interested in the complete engine if you ever decide to part out.

I this is legit it it more than a steal.

I don't think the slides ever wear out. Clean 'em up, jet 'em accordingly and run 'em.

The 795 series pistons compensate for the long rod. The spacer plate (or cut domes) is what compensates for the added stroke. And no one has mentioned the pancake bearing. EVERY Banshee should have a pancake bearing in place. You can weld the ball/rod on a stocker. It's just piss poor design.

I wouldn't think stock cases should do that if the vent lines are free flowing. My billet cases lose about half a quart every 2 passes. Like mentioned, it just sits there and siphons even with the engine off, and the fluid won't even be hot. Radar, what do you have blocked off? Just the clutch cover vent or both?

That probably would have shattered the override tranny on that DM.

She's obviously looking up parts for something other than a Banshee. Look at the numbers on top of the piston. They will tell you what size the bore is. Post them on here and we can tell ya. If the cylinders are in need of boring, but are not deeply scarred, I usually go 0.010" over. You order your new pistons and take them with the cylinders to the machine shop. If you are not sure how deep the scarring is, take them to the shop first then they can tell you what size pistons to order.

Yeah that's not good. That happened to a buddy's 18 mil DM at the track last year. It revved to the moon for a good minute before he got it shut down. If that ever happens, PIN THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN. It will kill the motor instantly. You could also cover the exhaust, but you might burn your hands if not wearing gloves.

The Cubs are mostly for Drag Racing as you will have a light switch powerband. I'm pretty sure the Vito's cylinders are like that, too.

Any machine shop can bore and hone the cylinders. Don't take it to the dealership for sure. They guy that told you that it was plated is a dipshit.

Please elaborate Dave. Aren't Crankworks and Twister cranks forged?

I bought my first set of alky carbs; then I have converted several sets since then. It's a piece of cake. You must be familiar with the tuning of alky before you run it though.

If you have stock gearing (and tires), you should be able to wind 6th gear all the way out, no problem. I find it hard to believe that 310s would still be rich, but if 320s sputtered, the 310s probably would still be a little fat. I run my bolt on modded stocker pig rich with 350 mains in it and it winds 6th tight with 15/41 gearing.

Throw some bigger mains in there and see what happens. 340s or so,then you can always jet back down. Usually no need for the 27.5 pilots with T5s, but it does make it easier to start.

What r/o tire do you have? What is your 60 ft times? Man my Cub blows 72 r/o 14 pdl extremes off all the way down the track with me on it (185 lbs). I don't see how you can get that thing down the track with those tires unless they are 80+ r/o!!

Safe to say he's running stock primary gears. I doubt he would spend $350 (or whatever straight cut high ratio gears cost) before he bought an override, but I could be wrong

Well, the 7 bolt would be quicker to remove. I have both and the only difference I can think of betweent them is that the 7 bolt is notorious for leaking a little (not too bad.) But all of my clutch cover gaskets leak anyway, so it doesn't bother me.

What is it bored to now? You're gonna have to get the new sleeves ported to match your cylinders. I'm not sure what it would cost, but you may be better off starting from scratch with some bone stock cylinders.

Can't be too much worse than a 12,000 rpm dyno pull. I'd be more worried about falling off that bridge.

Assuming 20 inch tires, your rapping that thing up to 11,000 rpms. I'm sure the tires grow at least 2 inches, so we'll say 10,500 rpms. I guess that's possible to make power until 10,500 with stock carbs ?

I actually had the Dave Moore powerjets on the cub, so I was getting more fuel than it should be able to use. I just took it to the dyno Saturday (since my above post) and ran some 0.118" dumps and mains, and clippard powerjets on the carbs and it would make the same power, rich or lean. The Cubs do handle fuel in a strange way. I had never thought about it as "fuel efficiency." Had my Cheetah on the Dyno, and when it got just a little fat, the HP would fall of a ton. I'm talking - 20 hp with a turn of the powerjet.

I had my 421 last year in a strutted suspended frame with +12 out back, and I think + 10 out front and it didn't transfer weight for shit with me on it (185 lbs.) I don't think I'd go more than +10 out back, jmo. Seems like my wheelie bars are only about 5 ft long for 2 stock chassis and 2 strutted suspended chassis. Probably about 8 ft long on my 99" wheelbase ridgid chassis.

Man it gets pretty confusing when I "borrow" parts from one bike to fix another. I'll get ready to put a motor together and it'l be like: "wtf, why is the flywheel missing" or "did I order a replacement clutch rod for this bike that I borrowed for the 16 mil after it welded the ball, then I stole the transmission shaft from the 4 mil...........................wait, where's my 4 mil? ....Oh yeah, its at the Powdercoaters. I've got ADD when it comes to these damn things . I'm terrible about keeping up with that, not to mention keeping up with what timing, squish, compression, gearing, tires that each one has. I need a secretary.

The case modification on the DM is because the cylinder bore is too big for stock cases; and the cylinder studs have to be relocated as well. No need to weld on yours. Just match the cases to your ports if you want, though I don't know how much that really helps on a Cub.

Untuned Cubs still run pretty damn good, imo. Now with a bad setup (wrong gearing, wrong tires, swingarm, etc.) is a different story; but the Cubs still make power pig rich or a little lean.