J-Madd

I think you can check the right side crankcase seal buy sealing off one of the vent tubes, then spray soapy water (or windex in your case) on the other vent tube and look for bubbles.

Jeff @ FAST. I buy it in bulk from him. Non o-ring, inexpensive.

Why can't you "get a compression reading out of the left side?" Sync the carbs, then adjust the idle at the cable adjuster on the thumb trottle assembly.

None of my motors have had that problem, but I have seen one that did exactly what you described. Start it up in the pit, and can't even get to pre stage before it dies. REPEAT x 3. I think he finally put lots of red loctite on there and torqued the hell out of it. I've heard that you can put an extra nut on there to jam it on.

Depends on your elevation; but most likely yes. At least 100 octane, maybe more. Do a compression test.

Gotcha. That makes sense since he said he'd already removed the o-rings.

No reason to not run alky on a drag only bike; imo.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^That's a good idea. Do the PD heads have copper washers? I've had the washers smash onto the stud before and not let the head come up,

I'm gonna clarify this a little as not to mislead/misinform readers. When you say Cheetah; you mean Cheetah Cub (though you don't specify size). The Cheetah is an entirely different cylinder. Also 100 hp on a 421 Cheetah Cub is easily obtained right out of the box on alky with the right carbs. To get that other 10 or so probably takes quite a bit of work.

Run it! Keep an eye out for signs of the leak getting worse (running hot, lean hanging, etc.)

Find out what the previous owner was running, if it was gas or alky, and how the carbs were jetted. 39 pwk is a great carb for that motor. I happen to run 41 mm Lectrons on mine.

That all sounds good, but I'd just go with a stock flywheel. Just my $0.02.

...And plain distilled water is a better coolant. Antifreeze/coolant does raise the boiling point, but so does the 14 psi or so that the radiator caps holds in the system. Water boils @212* F. That's already too hot for most engines. @14 psi the bp is raised (I"m too lazy to look up the equation to figure bp:pressure) to higher than what your engine should ever run in the first place.

I think snopzynski has some information regarding that.

The only wires you need are the orange and black wires to go to the coil; then another black wire to ground. Put the black/white wire inline with your tether kill switch. I think you ground the black/red wire also; but don't remember for sure.

The hub on my lonestar axle has the bolt holes threaded. I don't run a nut at all.

You can also weld the puller to the flywheel, then hit the with an impact wrench.

Make sure your threading the puller into the flywheel as far as possible.

Alky? Drag Racing? 39 pwks work on just about anything. 41 mm Packard Lectrons; TM38 Mikunis, 39 mm PWKs. All good choices. Go with which ever ones your more familiar tuning.

Buy a Raptor, YFZ, or TRX and don't look back.....

A leaky crank seal can cause that. You could be burning transmission oil.

You check the squish by putting piece of solder in the spark plug hole and across the top of the piston parallel to the wrist pin. Kick it over then pull out the solder and measure the very end of it with calipers. I predict your not even gonna be able to smash the solder because your squish is gonna be 2 mm off due to going from 4 mil back to stock stroke without changing domes. You typically would want squish 0.045" or so on that motor. Some run them it tighter on highly tuned drag motors. If there is no spacer plate, and both cranks are short rod (110 m) you can use the same pistons and just by some off the shelf banshee domes, check the squish and run it. Not knowing if the ports were moved, I couldn't tell you if would run or not, though,

What exactly happened to it? Locked up? Lost all compression?

Absolutely.. Just make sure to check the bolts often and/or install some grade 8 bolts. I have had both the top and bottom bolt that runs through the strut break (at different times). They only looked slightly bent, but the bottom one was cracked halfway and the top broke in two (at a later time) - I went to loosen it and I just pulled half the bolt right out of the strut; then the other half out of the other side of the strut. . Kinda scary; I'd just made a pass on it.

You don't have to remove the flywheel to see the degree marks on the plate.