J-Madd

Dave,you can run one of mine in the non heads up classes

I've had 2 go bad. And 2 that have lasted for years. Good point about the mounting location. Mine was right above the engine.

Thanks. Just making sure synth didn't mess with the clutch.

I'm changing the oil in my stock banshee. I usually run 10w30 or 30w regular oil, but I have some synthetic here. I think it's ok, but wanted to check. Not wanting opinions on the best oil to use. This a beatdown ugly stock bike but it still smokes 450s.

Some don't even run a base gasket.

I have a ported 392 Cub complete with lockup, 2-5 n down override. Also a short rod 421 with the same. $3000 for the 421 and $2500 for the 392.

I have Chrome RDZs out the left, and CPI BB out each side chrome. PM if interested.

I also heard they don't work well.

..Chariot head

I've ran the crap out of my stocker at 150 psi.

Leakdown test is a must. It will let you know if a leak caused it or not. If it wasn't a leak and you "fix" the motor it will happen again. And if you have an impact you don't need a clutch hub holder. Just leave all of the fibers and plates in place and press on them with your hand.

I have a copy of the oem curve if you need it. Those boxes work, but they will go bad out of the blue. Also make sure you run resistor plugs. E.g. Br8es.

If your sure its firing, the carb slides are too high as mentioned, or it's out of time.

Pressure test, then disassemble. Your looking at bore/hone and new pistons at the least.

The rollout info was interesting. I would like to ad, that adding rollout won't necessarily help win races unless you've got a very good reaction time. For example if your gonna have a 0.450 light and adding the rollout makes it a 0.550 that's gonna make your e.t. faster, but the guy your racing can have a 0.450 light with no rollout advantage and the faster bike is still gonna win. The first one to the end is gonna be the winner regardless of any manipulated e.t. advantage. Now if you are gonna cut a 0.350 (red) light and the rollout lets that be seen as a 0.450, that's where you will have an actual advantage in winning the race. Don't you agree Slower? The guys (Packard comes to mind) that put the number plate out front might stage with that and possibly run all the way through the tires before the timer starts. I don't know that for sure, but it seems feasible.

I have one ready to go with pipes, override, intakes, reeds, lockup...ready to bolt up. You'll need some carbs.

You explained everything very well in your initial post; and in the follow up posts. That's really why I don't know what else to add, I guess.

This post and previous post deleted. Contributed nothing to discussion.

We plan on being there.

X2. Sounds like it was ran on straight gas. Either way, I bet the pistons are melted.

On our carbs with more than one PJ, they're all turned off except one. Granted they are drilled and don't shut completely off. Never hurts though, especially on asphalt.

You can test the clutch side crank seal with the cover on. Block one of the case vent hoses, then check for air coming out of the other when you pump it up.

I have a Vito's slingshot if interested. Might be missing a few balls.

I have the rev limiter (not the dyna fs). You pay shipping and you can have it. I don't have the lever.

78 mm Twister is same size as DM.