J-Madd

It would have been best to do a pressure test before disassembly. Glad you found your problem.

Leaner than 1/2 turn.....Pilots and air screws feed fuel throughout the entire throttle range but are overrun by the fuel supplied by the needle and main at more than about 1/4 throttle. If tha makes sense.

I don't think it was there.

Whats the ring end gap?

Millennium can always fix your ashtrays. 8 passes on some new plating and on the way back again for one of mine.

I ran +7 on my 10 mil with BB CPIs, 41pwks, 20 cc domes last year. Gonna try +8 this year on that motor. It was a little lazy to clean out, thinking that may help.

Ok.

If it had no compression on one side something is wrong. Or I guess you meant it just wasn't running on that side?

Those are the pics from the seller, right? Need some pics of just the cylinders. It doesn't look like there are studs coming through those cylinders in that pic, but I could be wrong. Hell, there aren't even any hose clamps holding the carbs on. Pic looks mocked up to me. And the heads not tight and missing some bolts.

Show some pics of the top and bottom of the cylinders. The Twister case porting usually looks different than that. I'm not sure those cylinders were ever on that bottom end.

80 weight gear oil in the transmission? I notice that the cases have studs. The few twisters I have seen don't use studs but bolts that go through the cylinders into the case. Anyone know if Twister makes some that use studs?

Try Rebel Gears. They can make any sprocket.

Hole in piston or rings seized. Probably due to air leak.

I don't care for the Barnett either. OEM Banshee or Raptor fibers with Barnett steels works good.

Or be sure and tighten the the tops of the plugs. Always.

I always ran them straight out of the box on gas. Not sayin that's the correct way, but Ive done it for over 20 years.

The cushions being worn out behind the clutch basket will break the fibers.

I think someone else answered that for me, but you can get the needles right just by revving it until it sounds crisp and clean. Now for the powerjets, those have to be tuned at the track. On the first set of Lectrons I tried, I was tuning them like they were pwks. The motor was a little blubbery and smoked a lot off idle and when revving, but I thought I could get it cleaned out, and it would pull out of it on down the track. Didn't happen. I made many rides of shame down the track, lol. When I finally got the needles where it was fast and crisp to rev, that's when it would finally take off.

Just cause you work on turbines or even for NASA doesn't mean you can do your own porting (with no experience) NO offense. Ive seen a cardiac bypass surgery and know how its done, but i cant do it. Even if you have the tools and a steady hand you have to know what material to take out On those cylinders. You can research that and maybe do it, but I would let someone else with experience port it. You already know that because you mentioned that though.

Choke tube

If your carbs are sync'd you can idle it with the throttle cable. I ran a carb with an idle screw and one without for a long time. No issues. Make sure you put the choke tube back. And you cant run at all without the air screws but I think you had them confused with the idle screws. And having to choke to start is good. If you can start with no choke your pilot/air screws are too rich.

Odd that an oil made for injection has dye but premix doesn't.

Good numbers for gas. To the best of my knowledge Cam built my Scimitar.

Lectrons needles are set with no load on motor. And a single purge cycle won usually put much on the plugs, and alky won't ever put carbon on the plugs. Black shit with alky is heat.

I think he's saying he didn't even ride it. Just fired it up. I've never seen heat on straps and porcelain of plugs from running in neutral, but if you had a lean hang, thats what heated it up. I'm surprised that pulling the plug wires killed it. It must have been strictly due to the carbs being open and not actual dieselling. When they diesel, the best way to kill the motor is the pull the kill switch (duh), then hold the throttle WOT. I'd bet the motor is fine.