J-Madd

Lucky you didn't hydro lock it. It only takes about a quarter of a kick.

Are running a pump?

Why the b9 plugs?

Problem for op is he said he doesn't have the original airbox mounting tab Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using Tapatalk 2 You can use zip ties. Don't have to have air box tabs.

6 years old?

I can bring some Snipers to the PSDA race in MI. I'll even put them on a 421 and make some passes. They're not a bad pipe. And i mis spoke about pipes at Gilbert. We did win the 0-425 with RDZ pipes, be we could have won it with any pipe, I think. (The track was the limiting factor on the small motors,not hp). As far as Menz's pipes, his are already designed for his motor. He bought the RDZ weld up kit and cut the pipes for his specs. Using software he said that pipe design made more difference in (theoretical) hp than any other variable. He even took measurements of my SB and BB Shearers and the Snipers and made some theoretical dyno curves based on his motor specs.

Are gonna remote start or kick? That's gonna be a mfer to kick! Even though its not a huge motor we remote start. I broke the clutch cover and kicker gear on the basket trying to start it at the shop one day. I didn't want to have to wear boots to start it, and didn't want to risk breaking stuff again. If you are gonna kick it (and most people do) you can run a dyna and retard the timing for low (e.g. <1000, or whatever) rpms. You probably know all of that, just throwing that out there. Hate to see ya break an ankle!

Check pick up coil gap, choke tube, and flywheel - could've sheared the key. Backfire usually indicated a timing issue or extreme lean condition (air leak).

Definitely pressure test before teardown. That way you know if it had an airleak before.

It is probably the swingarm. As mentioned, its the nub that the brake caliper bracket slides on as the chain is adjusted. You sometimes have to grind that caliper slot open a little.

Swap plug wires and see if the dead cylinder follows.

Shearers on all of the 2 stroke winners that I saw. I run leaking ass hand coned Shearers on the 643 cc bike and brand new hand coned Huge Bore Shearers (replaced leaking ass, multiple times cracked mounting bracket, etc, etc, other Shearers) on the Scimitar.

Pull the plugs and look for water on them.

You can buy whatever you want turn key for $15k. You can buy 2 Cub turn key duners for that.

Most tracks like less pressure. Start at no higher than 3.5 psi and go down 1/4 psi until you get the best 60 ft. JMO. I would say 3 tenths or more decrease in e.t. With the override.

On the drag bikes I run 2 heat cycles on gas with No water in radiator. Let it get stone cold between cycles. The run 1 with water in it to check for water leaks. I like another on alky also. I agree that when guys change out cylinders at the track they only heat it up once or twice. And you can idle a drag motor for 10 minutes and not get hot. Not saying that that is the best for longevity, but you can run a full pass after 1 heat cycle.

This was index. He hadn't BEEN running faster than 3.80, found himself making fast passes and of course you'll let out if you're ahead if you wanna win the money. The next lowest index was 3.60, so sandbagging is just part of it I guess. I find it hard to let out of the gas in a good pass and have gave away races by breaking out when u have guys half tracked in index or bracket.

We really got caught off guard with the primary gear ratio affecting our clutch set-up. I knew it would change our set-up, but I didn't figure this much. Anyway, our new primary ratio is a 2.54. We chose this for 1/4 mile primarily. We have ran 2.68s when we 1st started in 2005 & then switched to 2.86s around 07. It's hard to find information on primary ratio changes affecting clutch basket speed. Most that I have talked with says going from a 2.86 to 2.68 to 2.54 etc. speeds the basket speed up. I agree with that, but a few say it slows it down. Also, in my studies I found that there's less torque being seen by the clutch, because of the change. That worries me & I found some of these results in our 1st track outing. The 1st thing we noticed was the motor wanting to bog at the drop of the clutch lever. No big deal, I'll just take some base pressure out. Well, I kept taking & still haven't found the sweet spot yet. We were at a point of 40+ lbs. less base pressure than we ran on our Cub. 2nd thing we noticed was the motor rpms being pulled down 20'-30' out. The arm weights were coming in to fast. While we made changes in the right direction on both areas, it was not enough. The last part of the evaluation was inspecting the clutch pack after getting home. It can tell you your clutch tune-up; kind of like reading your spark plugs. There was not enough heat in the steels for it to even show. The type of hot lapping we were doing should have shown a slight brown discoloration, but nothing. For me, this last information along with the above info. Gave me a pretty good insight to what the clutch was doing & really what it wasn't doing. Note for myself: clutch changes made & reading the clutch pack. FWIW we went from 2.52 ratio due to broken teeth to 2.36 (I was against changing the ratio, but it was recommended to my brother who also tunes the bikes). I was afraid it would completely jack up our clutch speed (and it may have) but it didn't hurt a thing. We also went from 90" RO STUs to some flat paddle rippers though. I will say that you can't pull the clutch in after a dyno pull due to weight, though that may have been the case before as well. I do little to no clutch tuning. The track changes too much and I'm lazy. I get it close, then use tire pressure and gearing. Clutch tuning will obviously yield the best results if you have the patience and a case of clutch fibers and steels, lol.

I love that track. Maybe he'll open it up again someday. We rented it last year to get ready for some other races.

Why would you mess with a stock cylinder with all the other options? For stealth? The Wampus looks like a stock cylinder.

Their Triple ran a 3.25 on motor last night. The record is at 3.24. They also built my 100% custom 643 cc motor that ran lots of 3.5s and tons of 3.6s. By 100% custom I mean there is not another even close to it, and can't be built with off the shelf cylinders or pistons without lots if modification. I give all credit to them and my rider. All I did was bolt it on the bike and go. Took some fine tuning to get it in the 3.5s, but ran 3.6s outta the trailer. They are sponsors here and can build some bad ass motors. One of their customers 7 mil Cubs won the 3.80 index and had to sandbag not to break out. Would have ran some mid to low 3.7s there, which says a lot for Gilbert. That track is notoriously slow for the small motors. They also built a 10 mil DM that has ran lots of mid to low 3.60s in a stock chassis on motor. That bike is in Michigan now, though.

I thought it was a Cougar, but they were kicking it. It definitely redeemed itself after whatever happened the previous few passes. I hope that is a record. They needed a 3.27 to back it up, I think. Obviously a 28 was ran, but not sure about 27. Do you know Slower?

What was the debate? That was a great run on lots of spray! Only a handful of us saw because it was so late

I didn't take any video but I'm sure there's some out there. New open twin Limited Record also 3.40@91 on the Scimitar.

New record 3.57@89