J-Madd

I agree. FWIW I run the SBs on that motor now.

http://forums.atvdragracers.com/topic/8042-bb-vs-sb-shearers-on-10-mil-cub/page__p__70169__hl__shearer__

Unless you meant a fuel map, sorry cant help ya there.

Start out at 56739184718 degrees BTDC at 2 rpms, then taper the curve to 4568niner.0001 degrees at 123,000.56 Rpms.

They're all "stamped". That just means not hand coned. The ones without the CPI logo stamped on them that I have seen are a smaller pipe vs the ones that have no logo. I like the ones without the logo.

A friend of mine (Jason Menz - fastest Cub in the world and its a 397cc) saw power increase across the board with the 4s vs his modified 3s. I don't know what he does to modify the 3s, but he dynos his motor constantly to get the most hp out of his motor. Trying the 4s in my 10 mil Cub this year.

Ha ha Fat Boy Treats. He's a great guy.

Water won't cause rust in Banshees... aluminum doesn't rust. Tap water will have minerals (iron, calcium, etc.) that may deposit themselves in the cooling system over time. (Like water sprinklers turning your fence or bricks white or rust colored over time.) I use distilled water + water wetter.

I mistook the right lane for one if Packards bikes. On second glance, the pipes are not coming out the front and the rider is wearing short sleeves. I didn't know anyone else wore mx helmet drag racing.

If you have a motor ported for CPIs its gonna be down on power and maybe hold heat with Shearers. Check the exhaust port duration. If its higher than ~ 198* the CPIs usually work better.

I've seen some coolheads bad about that before. If its a coolhead, you can put some Yamabond on the the treads of the head studs.

$$$$ and Heavy!!!

I like them to be nearly the length of the wheelbase. I know some chassis builders just build them all the same, regardless of chassis length, though. I've had to lengthen a few of mine.

I've got some like new Chrome Vitos Fat Bastard pipes. Look almost identical to Shearers.

What times did Packard run?

FWIW I run 44 Lectrons on alky, pe1 needles on a similar cc motor (way different bore/stroke combo). You might get away with 48s, but the tuning may be more difficult as you probably know.

If you swapped plug wires left to right and the problem stayed on the same side you've ruled out any electrical problem. Make sure your carbs are in sync and choke tube is in place. If they are, then check the spark plug for water beading on the end. Water getting into that cylinder can do that. Check for air leaks, and check compression.

I know you're stuck on race gas, but why don't you run methanol? Just curious.

Are those 80 r/o 16 paddle Rippers?

I have back to back track and dyno runs somewhere for this scenario. On my particular motor, it didn't make much difference. I think the BB peaked at about 400 rpms or so less,but the HP and e.t.s were similiar (from what I remember). If I get time I can dig up the post. I think its on atvdragracers.com

I don't think it takes a badass Banshee to beat that car in the 8th mile. I have a friend with some bullshit ported ebay stock cylinders, and a 4 mil crank just thrown together with stock carbs and CPIs that runs low low 8s in the 8th on knobby tires. Stock frame with heavy ass +6 square tubing swing arm, stock shocks, no wheelie bar, ready to trail ride. He probably weighs 200 lbs. I'm NOT bragging on this bike, just showing an example. That is plenty to beat that car.

If you had even 1.19 60ft that puts you in the 3.2 range if you have any mph at all. Wild Thing runs those 60 ft times. Something doesn't seem right. Not saying you don't run your times but do you should know that those 60 ft times are unattainable on that motor. No disrespect.

You had 1.1 60fts in sand? Surely that's asphalt. I guess you'll see if the same type of setup works with bigger motor. They're a PITA to me. My Cubs would outrun some of my bigger motors for a while, which is completely aggravating. Aside from clutch and chassis setup, it seems that exhaust duration, pipe, and ignition timing changes are magnified with the bigger motors. We lost upwards of 50 hp on the dyno with a 3 degree change in ignition timing; and lost 20 hp or so with 6 degrees of exhaust timing change. Good luck and keep us posted.

Be careful not to hydrolock the motor after a sticking float. Sounds like something in the new bowl is binding the float. Maybe swap bowls and see if the problem follows the bowl.

Didn't read all that gay shit but alcohol is what to run.