J-Madd

Mine are ceramic.

Oem stator? If it ran before I doubt any electrical part just went "bad" while rebuilding it. ToRs, choke tube, carb slides sync'd and bottomed out, kill switch hooked up correctly?

Both coated. The first is the Prosand record 650 cc bike. Not recommending it after reading above information, just adding to the discussion. I wasn't aware of the issue of coating 2 stroke pipes when I had it done.

Sniper motor? Pics? Pics of pipes?whats the bore?

If you want more compression, shave the head if it is stock, or change domes if aftermarket. Don't change the base gasket solely to change compression.

T5s are top end pipes for a trail bike.

When I was asking about trail pipes almost 10 years ago, I was told pt mids, or maybe some other pipes. I bought T5s before the post was answered. I'm sure there are better pipes than t5s for trail riding.

Yea. It's behind the reeds. I wasn't thinking about that. Sorry for the misinformation.

That's a steal.

I'm fighting the same issue on a previously good shifting override. I tore it all apart and the only thing I can find wrong is that the big bushing on the clutch shaft is froze to the shaft. I don't see how that would make a damn. I am baffled with it and haven't put the motor back together. Have you looked at the shift forks? What we call "bent" shift forks really only means a few thousandths of wear on them. They won't shift for shit. You can also get burrs on the angled dogs that won't let them disengage, but that isn't usually in every gear.

I bet the boost port on the stockers is to oil the wrist pin for as long as possible. Maybe others will chime in. The CP cylinders probably already have such a long intake duration that it would supersede any port that the stock intakes have. And you need the intake bridge all the way up to keep the rings in place. JMO.

I think on the crankcase volume, the less the better because you get more velocity from the air/fuel mix for drag racing. Not sure about mx or trail riding. Tim at Titan Racing who is a two stroke genius had a whole discussion on it on Planet Sand. That being said, most probably don't know or try to check their crankcase volume.

(Drag) Ported stock cylinders usually have that done. If the boost ports go too close to the edge, they have to weld up the outside of the cylinders. The triple port exhaust is a whole other animal on stockers. Not a ton of those out there and they cost more than a Cub probably.

The crossover adds to crankcase volume. That could be good or bad, depending on the motor and application. It seems like the crossover would be a good idea to me, but we don't run them on drag motors. Most people don't. Maybe they are better for on and off throttle, rather than WOT.

The timing can be off with the aftermarket flywheels as well. As far as all the grounds, they are not needed as I've argued before, but don't hurt for sure. The black wires go back to the stator for the ground, and the stator is grounded to the motor which is grounded to the chassis.

It'll be there, but so far this 850 cc+ motor won't out run my PPS powered 643 cc bike. We changed the motor placement on the chassis, changing pipes, and are working on the clutch to try to get it where it needs to be. It's making power for sure, just not sure its making right, and putting it to the ground.

I run ATF Type F. It was still shifting fine like that; we just knew it was time to change them; and the slider gear is fine. That motor gets maybe 30 passes out of some forks, whereas another I have only gets about 10 sometimes. That is a spongebob chassis. The first one I believe.

One OF the the worst forks.... Damn iphone.

One if the worst forks I've seen but it still shifted ok. These trannys baffle me. If it was a stocker override it would not shift at all under load.

What does the top look like? Which side?

I have a set off of a 2006 I bought brand new. Took them off after 1 ride. Have some surface rust from setting in the shop. $70 shipped.

I'd say longer on alky with a safe tune. More oil going through the cylinders. JMO though. No proof to back it up. Now catastrophic failures may be more common with alky, just not general wear, I don't think.

I'm sure the ARP studs are top notch, but they are just overkill and stockers work fine on that motor. That's what I meant. Congrats on the sale!

I would just go with millennium. Some of the other places have mixed results.

This^^^^^ and electric impact FTW. As many times as I've done this I still find myself pulling the clutch pack out, then having to put it back in to do this. Blue lock tight on install and don't worry about bending the tab on the keeper if its broke off.