J-Madd

Yes. $650 each !! Send monies ASAP!

TTT Prices on motors are $2000 each.

Not for sale, but was digging through my old for sale posts and can't believe I tried to sell this motor...This is my record holding(maybe former record holding) < 650 cc motor. Would've been a handful in that chassis....hardly ran it...

Sorry thats an asshole response. I don't usually respond like that. Its just that I've written paragraphs about this motor for a bazillion people and its less than half price of a new build and will probably be as fast or faster than a new build...but no one is serious about buying it. Pm me if you really want more info.

A fast motor.

I have a complete motor for sale. $2000.

It would be a custom cylinder. 1 of 1. Not sure what CP charges for those. I should know because I should've already built a custom size motor, but I haven't done it yet with cast stuff.

Sounds like the coil wire came loose.

^^^^^buys new shit with warranty but changes own fuel filter .....(I'm not implying warranty covers that) Try to change the Ford filterS. Not that I have, but the guy that does it says its a pain in the ass.

Make one like Menz. Wish I had a pic. Surprised JT didn't do one like his. It's nothing but the lever attached to the bars. No housing at all.

Probably not the CDI. How did they determine that was the problem? There is no way to test them, and actually it is kind of rare that they go bad.

Art = Joe

Price drop. $2000. pickup only or buyer arranges shipping.

TTT $700 pickup only.

TTT $12,500 It only costs $250 to have the tranny fixed. I just had another billet tranny redone that had the same issues as this one. Will sell motor and chassis separately if interested.

Well your reeds sound fine then. And syncing carbs by eye is good enough to rule that problem out. They would have to be way off to run like you say.

Also I would add: #4 check carb sync. #5 check reeds on that side.

I don't doubt your knowledge on this at all. But do not all of the black wires already connect together and ground themselves to the engine? The only reason I can see for a frame to engine ground is if you chose to use the frame as a ground for one of the components (like how pvl coils ground to the frame.) I can see no reason in a perfectly functioning ignition system why the voltage would choose a path other than back through the ground back to the engine that is already in the wiring harness....but electricity does funny shit I guess. If there is a short, bare wire or malfunction of sorts, I can see where it could be a safety issue with getting shocked....but this can happen even with the frame ground. The way I hook up the tether (one lead to each side of the coil) this has happened before. Usually just swap the leads on the tether and this goes away. My bikes have 1000s of passes and/or dyno pulls with no frame to engine ground....or any part of the ignition grounded to the frame for that matter. I didn't come up with this idea on my own, in drag racing it's "monkey see, monkey do!" I saw how someone had their ignition wired with a very simple method, and that guy definitely had his shit together. We discussed what was going on with the wiring and he said basically what I'm saying. I appreciate the technical info on why the ground could be needed...and the rationale for it. If (very rarely) we have to switch electrical components to rule out issues, it only takes a few seconds the way all of mine are wired.

All grounds already go back to the same black wire. It's not like a car with a battery. I stand by my stance that zero grounds are needed. No need to sand your pc or oven worry about the coil being grounded.

Really only needed with pvl, IMO.

Lap it and coat the snout with blue loctite before install. I forget the terminology that describes the erosion of the metal due to that.

You can find a set for $200 - $400 35mm would be the biggest you'd want unless drag racing.

As long as you still have a vent on the top rear of the case that one is not needed.

Good deal. If you got the whole kit from Vitos it is their screw up. They should know better. You may want to run a hone through the cylinders before you put the new correct pistons in.

I ran +8 swingarm and -2/+2 drag arms on a 421 stock frame and it worked pretty good.