J-Madd

I don't run asphalt, but no. You'd only top out at 82 mph assuming your motor revs to 10,000 rpm. You can run that and have fun, but not in the ballpark for the gearing. Needs a higher ratio.

Tyrelz ain't gonna do that. Just sayin...maybe Cam will do it for him??

Yes I think. The circuit is open until you push the button. In that case you just unhook it. No need to jump anything to bypass it. Or just do what they said. Corey will get one done quick and cheap.

This^^^ check plugs for water droplets or steam coming out of the pipe after plug removal. Also, just to rule it out, try OEM CDI. Dynas are hit and miss. And you don't really know what timing is in it....and it adds more than OEM even on the "stock" setting.

^^^real advice from a builder. Not a parts changer. @Dan - yes that's exactly what I meant about the checking for a leak there.

I'm looking for catastrophic leaks, and it's usually pinch time getting ready for a race. And these motors have been tested before with a several minute test. I have let some motors set on the bench for several minutes and not saw a drop in pressure, and I keep a good enough eye on plugs to see a possible leak. I have retested at the track on a few motors, and I never find a leak. Now if it was an unknown motor, I would make damn sure it is tight. But all of mine have been tested every time I take anything off, so when I say I just let it set for a minute, I'm just making sure I didn't fubar anything whilst I was being a parts changer.

How much does it leak in 5 mins? Drag racing, I'll run that mofo all day long if it holds air that good. Honestly I put 6 psi in it, and it that needle doesn't start falling after a minute I call it good. Your results may vary. That being said, most of my motors are air tight and will hold 6psi for a long time.

Some motors load back up pretty quick.

Pick up coil gap? You can check pto side crank seal by looking for bubbles out of the crankcase overflow tubes during leak down test. You don't have to remove the clutch cover and drain oil/water.

How was your push button kill switch hooked up? Is it "normally open", or "normally closed"? How you jumped it could have been wrong depending on how it is hooked up.

Same here. It's hard to start cold, but runs fine.

Shit yes. The black, wire is grounded when the run switch is OFF. So just the red/black and all black tied together. Sorry for the bad info! Was trying to picture my harnesses. I have my black/white isolated and not used.

Thanks again for the nitrogen. My meaningless attempts at racing would've been even more meaningless with those dead shocks!

Yes. People may disagree, and there is a argument that the ground is needed, but I don't ever run one on the 7 or so motors I have. If you tried everything else then by all means go ahead and ground all black wires back to the frame and back to the motor.

Be sure the black/red wire is connected to the solid black wire when you are trying to start it. You can hook up a tether a variety of ways to that harness once you rule out the issue. Edited to reflect hoppedups corrected info. I originally said to ground the white/black wire, which is not correct.

That's for sure an alien.

Yea man. I need to change something. I realized part of my problem is that the foot peg are not offset toward the front like I used to run on this chassis. They are direct bolt on...about 3 or 4 inches back. Not sure it would've mattered much though. I also think I used to run 10 pdl last time. One thing is for sure. It will be changed up if I get it back out. No fun at all they way is sits. Nuts on the gas cap and front end still came up in 4th! Lol Hope you got some video of those monster 400' wheelies you did!! Both of your setups are bad ass.

One of my Cubs no longer for sale. Missed out on the drag race package deal for dirt cheap. I put it back together.

I dunno, may turn a short guy into a tripod.

I'm talking about parts... Tyrelz, you can come buy the pipes and I can give you those TWO Viagra you paid for as a years supply.

$100 pickup only. That way with my salesman skillz I can talk you into buying something else.

They're stamped. Just like all others.

Do you want them?

What details do you need? They are SB SF out each side. They don't look as good as in that pick but no dents. Nickel plated.

I forgot all about this. Having not gone back to re read all of that, I think not courtesy staging is pretty shitty. I mean you don't have to sit there and wait while someone cleans their motor out for 30 seconds, but to roll into the second bulb immediately after the other guy prestages is wrong. If I see people doing that we take a different approach to staging so as not to get caught not ready on an autostart system. And beat your ass anyway. There is also a short time allowed on the system to back out of the prestage, but that's iffy. If it's not autostart and someone wants to do that, then depending on which jockey I have, you can sit your ass there all day long. Trey is a lot nicer than Patterson!