J-Madd

It is the next to the front bike in the second pic. Nearly all other chassis in that pic are for sale as well.

$15,500 Complete Bike For Sale has ran some 3.3s and lots of low 3.4s on motor. Has ran multiple low 1.2 60 ft with an occasional 1.1X 60' - Custom Scimitar Cylinders 1134 CC (95mm x 80 mm) - 2.36 straight cut gears - Custom Mattoon Billet Cases, bearing support, and clutch cover - Custom Twister Crank (has dual bearings) - Mattoon 12 Plate Clutch basket - 1-4 billet transmission - 2 sets of huge bore Shearer Custom Pipes - MSD ignition (this was ~$2500 and only ran once), - ~120 " wheelbase Lonestar Chassis - Flat 16 pdl Rippers - Custom Chromoly drag axle - A couple extra sets of different configuration domes - Custom dual feed 48 mm Lectrons bored out to ~52mm, with extra large capacity bowls - Extra set of UPP intakes - Extra set of wheels/tires (STU #2 16 pdl) ***The transmission is still in the motor and needs reworked. For this reason the price on this has been reduced from what I would normally ask for this. I will post a few pics that I have of this. I will get some more pics up later. Thanks for looking.

Cheetahs aren't worth messing with IMO. Cubs (or Drivelines) are much more economical to build.

Cheetah uses different head, intakes, and exhaust flange and is generally a bigger bore than a Cub.

True they are not monoblocks but they are more often built as banshee based multiple cylinder motors. Mandatory billet cases, among other high dollar parts.

Cougar, Scimitar, Caracal also. Probably can't get those anymore though. And hardly anyone here would want any of those.

Cubs are a more proven setup (only because they've been around so long) but I wouldn't hesitate at all on running Driveline cyls.

Want to buy complete motor?

I have a complete 421 Cub. $2500 to your door.

Can we just have a thread for Zilla vs. AtvMan?

It says 44 mm

If sleeper says it's good I wouldn't worry about pics or who cut it.

I too thought it came from Calvin. Calvin always liked a castor blend for other reasons as he thought it provided better protection from nikasil wear. As opposed to non castor blends such as redline oil. I'd bet Menz made back to back dyno runs with redline vs. supertechniplate. He tested EVERYTHING. When he quit, he was running supertechniplate.

I think the axle problem was that it is gun drilled, and then when you have a keyway there is weak spot. I know it if that CF axle worked I would have a few. Maybe a design like a lonestar style would work better than a JJandA Style??

There was some information passed along by someone long ago that 20:1 made more powa on the dyno. Possibly due to the BTUs that the castor component adds to the fuel. It may have been folklore, but that's why I went to 20:1. At one time, I think folks ran 24:1 more commonly.

In 300 ft racing, billet bowls without pump is fine. Anything longer... yes. That being said, no downside to running a pump on that motor though as long as the carbs are set up for it AND the floats are set properly. On a tad bigger motor than that we run a pump and basically waste some fuel out of some barbs that are installed on the bowls. I had a hard time setting the floats where I felt it safe. It was either fuel level was shutting off too soon or would overflow through the vents (and into the motor). Many bog passes due to that. I'm not saying this is the correct way, but this motor is a rocket and I just don't want to change anything on it.

Carbon fiber cases and cylinders ftw!! I'm leery about some carbon fiber stuff. Someone above mentioned a driveshaft, but the CF axle was shit. Maybe it was design flaw I dunno. Steering stem? I wouldn't like that either. I like the idea of anything light weight, but you can already run a plastic stator cover...I would be on board with a CF clutch cover if it was lighter than what we currently use. The only CNC billet clutch covers are thick and heavy so if the CF was that thick I'm not sure there would be any weight savings. Shifter, clutch lever, thumb throttle assemblies, brake/axle/wheel hubs(?), ...what else could be done?

SOLD. Thanks.

He got it out yesterday and egr block off and egt are in place.

660.

Raptor fibers (OEM) and Barnett steels are what I run.

$500 firm. Does not include cable or wing bolts on top of carb. Will include regular Allen bolts. shipping and PayPal fees not included.

54k. Note that the manifold bolts he's taken out were not from this truck but from his job at my other business.

My brother has had to take out many many broken manifold bolts. He's gonna have to fix this for me.

Great news. Broke bolt off one egr pipe flange.