J-Madd

I have seen this as well. Wiring was backwards going to the pickup or something.

Did they make only 1 pull? Hell dyno errors happen all the time. Even with no tuning you have to make several pulls to get a baseline.

If that mph is correct you need higher gearing IMO to load it better. It may not make a difference but it won't hurt. And like Zilla said, graph needs to be hp vs rpm. That info should be available from that pull, just have to change the the data inputs in the software to display it.

521 Super Cub. Not a serval though.

I bought one on Facefuck on a Thurs, shipped 2 day, and had it on the track runnin low 3.6s outta da trailer on Sat. (Should've been mid 3.5s but not enough passes considering zero test n tune, and had chassis issues going waaayyy crooked). Entire basket case of unknown issues I had to work on before even putting in chassis though. As well as it being a gas motor I threw alky carbs on and let it rip. I like the 521s. Worth the wait for those with patience. Edit: mine was a Super Cub. Not a serval.

I paid sales tax on it at the dealer. But no it was not registered. I forget about that being a problem. There would be a penalty to register. And I pay property taxes on it. Its your call if you decide you want it.

Ill have to find out how to get a lien release on it. I bought new in 06 so its been paid off since...probably 2006, lol.

Usually 100 octane low lead. That may be enough. I don't know. Whatever you decide don't try octane booster because it won't protect against detonation like real octane will.

Not knowing anything else about your motor, you likely cannot run pump gas unless you live at very high elevation.

I'm not interested in these, but more info may help sell them. These have triple exhaust ports and drag port timing, correct?

Scimitar. 1136 cc. Serious powa. For sale still.

I already have some Super Cub pipes probably identical to those. And I don't have a DM.

Can I get those on ebay? I don't think I have one. I have a roost boost, will that help?

Will these work better than T5s on my stock cylinder trail bike?

A custom pipe, using precise engine build parameters along with some testing should be better than any off the shelf stamped pipe. If is is not, it needs to be re-evaluated and maybe some of the parameters were not taken into consideration. A custom pipe should have a better power delivery in the intended rpm range as it provides a stronger return sound wave (and pressure) back into the combustion chamber before the exhaust port closes on the way to TDC. Some of the flaws in how an engine makes power I believe can be fixed with a correct pipe. A pipe is not really a one size fits all. It can work well within a range of engine parameters (ignition timing, compression, port timings, blow down, intended rpm range, rpm drop between shifts, estimated operating temperature, etc, etc) but not be optimum for any particular engine. I don't think any pipe builder would dispute this. In the real world when testing there may be some unknown, unforseen variables to deal with, and that is where the cut, weld, and retry method may come into play.

Have you already dynoed both? And was the LED set custom?

$1000 they won't if they're stamped.

If you're on a budget try to find all of that used. Anything billet will usually polish back to new.

It's just friction. The input tranny shaft is always turning and it turning a gear on the output shaft. That gear is supposed to turn freely in neutral but it can turn that shaft too with no load on it.

Why not buy new ones?

No

Doesn't matter. Just make sure slides are raised the same amount.

F. That.

Run B8's on gas. If you don't see an adjustable timing plate or notice where the stock plate has been modded (bolt holes will be oblong instead of round) then timing is stock. If stock plate happens to be modded about +5 is as far as it will go. 32:1 on the ratio. I can't answer those other questions without more info. Leak down test it, check compression and report back.