J-Madd

I'd recommend getting a Clymer manual before attempting to split the cases.

YOu don't have to split the cases, just remove the foot peg and clutch cover. YOu'll find you problem in there somewhere. You might have a new clutch cover gasket on hand just in case the old one tears. The idler gear is behind the clutch basket. It is the gear that the kick starter gear engages. If you can wobble that gear easily, the clip and washer are gone, which you will most likely find somewhere in the clutch cover. You'll have to order a new clip and/or washer, and maybe a new bushing for that gear, BUT that may not be the issue. Be sure you have a good big phillips screw bit or even an impact screwdriver (the kind that you hit with a hammer) as those clutch cover bolts strip very easily. While your at it, you could be allen head replacement bolts for cheap from rockymountain atv, or wherever.

Shearer, CPI, RDZ

As mentioned, bigger carbs and some BB outframe pipes would help you more than anything, assuming you have an override tranny. Without an override, it would be difficult to drag race that beast. Don't forget about bigger intakes when you upgrade the carbs.

Everytime I had shavings in the oil, the clip and washer on the idler gear had come off and rattled around inside the clutch cover, chipping pieces out of the clutch basket.

NO argument there. They pretty much suck outside of a straight line, unless you dump some $$ in suspension, etc.

I have a 14 mil Cheetah that I bought used built by A&S and was the fastest qualifier in its class at the Planet Sand race, untuned on a stretched stock chassis (130 lb jockey). His sh*t is fast. I didn't get to vote for A&S. I already voted for F.A.S.T. b/c he "built" my Cubs; and I didn't get a 2nd vote.

I've never been beat by a bolt on 4-Stroke on my bolt-on Banshee, unless I missed a gear, wheelied, or bogged - which all rarely happened. I could smoke other banshees by several lenghts in 400ft or so..some run better than others...this one just happened to be one of the best running unported Banshees I'd ever seen or rode.

Haven't there been reports of a richer mixture showing more HP on the dyno, or did I just dream that.??? Or did someone make that up?? I chose to run 20:1 b/c that's what Jeff recommended on my 421 Cub. He said that he saw less wear on the pistons and cylinders with the richer mixture.

Everybody that drag races runs blue label... they're lighter. The thicker wheels are to resist bending from jumps. You can put as much hp as you want to them as long as you run on flat ground.

LOTs of vibration with all solid mounts. NOt sure how much with only solid bottom mounts...Adrenaline Atv has them. Click. I have somewhat bad dealings with them, but they do have these parts, and are of high quality.

I run 20:1 Klotz supertechniplate.

None of my OOFs have blued (3 sets). I'd guess you're lean if you went from T5s to OOFs. Any other signs of being lean? (motor running hot, etc.)

I agree. I NEVER had a problem with a piped YFZ with those mods. Maybe I was a better rider than the dozen or so YFZ riders that I beat....I dunno. I have seen a lot of people with horrible riding skills make a piped Banshee look slow compared to a YFZ, however...and it holds true that some are always gonna run a little better than others, even with identical mods.

Good luck. I've got a Dyna rev limiter and it only worked a couple days...You also have to get a clutch handle with a switch (kinda like a brake light switch) that closes the circuit when the clutch is pulled.

You can get those pistons from Trinity. I think they are a custom piston, but not sure. I know they cost more than the Blasters pistons or the 795 series. The pistons you need are the same as for the 392 Cub (stock stroke, 68 mm bore).

Same here...looked right over that. I thought it was a vito's big bore monoblock.

YOu probably don't need all HD springs, you could alternate the softer springs with the heavy duties. However, it shouldn't be that hard to pull, assuming you have the ez perch lever. Most of the time I've found that hard clutch pull is due to the cable needing to be replaced.

He says it runs 3.7s...that's slow for what it is, imo. It's not a "track" bike however, so I don't know if that slows it down a tenth or what.

Does it have a slingshot lockup? You have to drill out the nubs on the inside of the cover, then put some silicone or something in the holes to keep it from leaking. Either way, just put some silicone in those screw holes and put the center cover back on. It should be fine.

Just a thought: are you sure the dowel pins are installed to perfectly line up the cases? They could have been out when you bought it, and you'd never really notice when you took it apart, I don't think.

I don't know why cases would spontaneously warp or leak?? It's not like you've got a 18 ml DM or some other torque monster.

Maybe it should be pinned. I know what that thread is without even clicking on it. That's all I could find when I searched. But some of us are lazy folkes that don't live near lowes or home depot or anywhere to get some of those parts. Hopefully this thread will help us lazy people out.

I cannot weld or fabricate...but I would think that if it is just that one spot, it could be welded and machined back down to the original specs. If they're actually "warped" I'd think it would be unrepairable. Just my opinion..

I thought all blaster axles were the same, and would fit all but the early year banshees?? :shrug: Not 100% sure though.