J-Madd

Yeah, but I don't think you have to pull the shaft out to replace the seal. Just get a pick and get the old seal out, sliding it over the shaft. And yeah you will f-up the old seal. You only have to remove the shifter and foot peg (and maybe stator cover, not sure the seal will go through the hole).

They are good drag racing pipes from what I've seen. Maybe a little more bottom/midrange pull than CPIs.

I saw this happen once, and the vent hoses you mention were kinked. Easiest to check that first. NOt sure about the loss of power, though..that didn't happen with me. IF not the hoses, crank seal, as mentioned.

It was either Shearers or CPIs that I got apart (after removing bolts or rivots) by holding the pipe and banging the silencer against the back tire. Beware of flying parts when it comes apart. The next time, I put the whole thing in a trash bag, and did the same thing, so that the silencer didn't try to take my head off.

NO benefit on a stock motor. Also, it's common for the oil to smell burnt if it hasn't been changed in a while. That's the clutch fiber in the oil..and the chatter is normal. Clutches are cheap, though..I'd go ahead and install a new one while you've got it apart.

I've had that in my sig since I finally admitted my addiction. :wink:

The shifter sticking down is usually the spring on the external shift mechanism (the spring around the claw on the end of the shift shaft). The spring pops out of its holder and doesn't recoil to put the shifter back in the center. Not hard to fix. #3 in this link. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m8731sch247547 Edit: I posted the wrong diagram initially.

Yes and yes.

A couple more. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...2601&hl=cub http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...1760&hl=cub

YOu don't want a Cub for that type of riding. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...7141&hl=cub

They lose a ton of HP with that CV drive and shaft. I forget the percentage. 40 hp at the wheels is a LOT at the crank on that motor.

What is the displacement of a 10 mil Big Block Twister?

Thanks. I don't actually have it yet. It's being shipped from Nevada. Even with me paying the shipping, I couldn't pass it up. 16 Mil Twister.

Run them opposite of the arrows. Also, turn your wheels and/or hubs inward to narrow the rear end for more traction.

Stock carbs will work fine. 28 or 30 mm would be a little better, though.

That will work, but the easiest way I have found is to not remove the clutch fibers and plates, only the outer hub(pressure plate). THen you can press on the clutch with your hand (basically engaging the clutch) to slow the rotation of the basket as you try to remove the nut with an impact gun. Works every time for me.

I wouldn't use an air compressor to air it up, you could damage the seals. Just a hand or foot operated pump will be plenty. The tester I bought comes with a bulb identical to that on a blood pressure monitor. It doesn't take much to get it up to 6 psi.

I saw an outlander run 4.99 in 300 ft on the spray this weekend. I'd like to see a brute force run 4.60 in 300 ft.

What makes you think its lean? If it is infact lean, and you don't have an air leak, go up on the mains.

This is a controversial topic. My 14 Mil Cheetah, allegedly built by Dan Hull, didn't have a lightened flywheel on it (nor did it have straight cut gears.) Not sure if that was an oversight, or if parts had been stripped off of it, or what. I put some straight cuts on it, and left the heavy flywheel. I couldn't be more pleased with its performance. Then there's the PVL, with almost no rotating mass....

Parking brake...that's what I was going to say next as well.

Dang, you're in a foul mood Travis ..saw your 10 mil now for sale....needing replating. WTF happened?

Kind of what I would think. Is the DNR officer like a conservation agent, or state park official? Never heard of them here. (I know what DNR is, just never heard of an officer with the DNR). The conservation agents around here usually leave us alone, but the police...that's a different story.

IF the 75 psi is correct, that's definitely your problem. The gauge shouldn't leak down at all. It should have a check valve that only lets air in, then you have to hit a button to release the pressure.

Put the old pads in, and place a flat blade screwdriver between them. Turn the screwdriver to open the gap between the pads. That will press the piston in. Then you should be able to put the new pads in. As far as bleeding the brakes. You can buy a cheap bleeder at an auto parts store, or just pump the pedal until you feel pressure, then hold the pedal down, and open the bleeder screw on the caliper assembly until air/fluid comes out. Repeat it until no air bubbles out. Always close the screw before letting up on the pedal.