J-Madd

Make sure it's not getting in around the wires going to the stator. There is a rubber grommet that is supposed to seal that hole. Make sure it's still in place.

I think he means the new, thicker pads won't fit in the caliper because the piston is pushed out. Also, brakes don't just quit working..they fade over time. I'd say that they just need to be bled, or that the master cylinder is bad.

Just pry them apart with a screwdriver.

I ran a 392 Cub with no lockout or override for a good while with no issues. It as not a 95 hp motor, though...maybe 80 hp. I later put in on alky and got an override (still no lock-up) and didn't realize that the clutch was slipping until it was on the dyno. It made about 83 hp before the hp curve showed the clutch slipping (keep in mind that this clutch was 2 years old). We're guessing it is 90+ hp. It now has a lockup. I ran a 421 Cub on alky and lockup without an override and didn't have terrible shifting problems. I could run 4.60s in 300ft on a bad track. Now on the same track with an override it runs 4.30s (4.10s all day long on a good track) If I had it to do over again, I would have went with a lockup and override in the beginning, but it is not an absolute necessity, imo.

I never had a reed problem until last week. I tried a launch limiter on my Dyna ignition and broke one reed at the line (not on the limiter), then another while purging. VF3s.

Maybe they (the bike owners, not Calvin) don't quite have them lined out yet... I have beat an 18 mil and a 20 mil DM on my 14 mil Cheetah. The 20 mil ran like shit..the 18 mil and I ran nearly identical times.

bigboybanshee sprayed his 421. I think he's got pics of his setup.

Gracious.

As some know, the Dyna has two switches, that can be a combination of up/up; up/down; down/up; down/down....to use the 4 curves. Which one is curve 3??It's not clear on my switch.

Yeah unplug the TORS completely. The black box on the left under the fender. And throw it as far as you can.

What do you mean "blew"?? If the right side locked up, the left side could suffer, as it's still trying to move.

That's my guess.

Yeah that^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Just to help clarify..the 4 mils need larger jets, not necessarily more fuel, than the 10 mils due to the pulse signal drawing through the intake, and ultimately, the main jets. Larger stroke = stronger signal, can pull more fuel through smaller jet. Basically what bansheestang said. I know you know this, just restating it a little different for others. :thumbsup:

At least it's not locked up!! You probably have seized both sets of rings or have some damage on them. Rare to have both c ylinders do that....or maybe you have holes in both pistons..... Either way. you need pistons and rings, and possibly a fresh bore. But that should be all...and gaskets.

I'm guessing they're way lower HP than him, so even with stock tires, they're kicking his ass.

Pro-Wedges 1st, or 2nd choice 4-Snows. If the dirt has any moisture in it at all, those will grip. If not, it'll be about 400ft b/f they hook up.

The inline cooler I had was a pro design, with very few fins. 20 fins....that could work.

I don't think they're worth the money on a Banshee. I bought one, but never used it. Just my 0.02.

I have.. I set the plate at zero, and added +8 to every rpm range except the lowest. This was to keep my kick starter from kicking back...but this was on a 14 mil cheetah on alky; and would not necessarily apply here. This has got me re-thinking that curve....I may retard it back to stock in the upper rpm range, just not sure where. Then again, it runs awesome as is (best of 3.72@86mph, 300ft., 130 lb jockey).

PM if interested. Thanks.

Thanks. That's what I thought, but I wanted to get the lever ordered today, and didn't want to guess wrong.

^^^^What he said.

I'd never buy an entirely different heat range of plug based on "durability." They're too cheap. That being said, sounds like the guy is full of it anyway.

Drag racing bars, same diameter as stock. Non-tapered.