J-Madd

Love the sig pic!! Was that landing smoothe?? Sorry for getting off topic, but I think he has his answers, and I have nothing to add.

I'm not mad. We all know that you're getting a kick out of stirring shit here! You can keep this going, but you know the truth, but it humors you to state the contrary just to get our reactions...and it works. It's all good entertainment I guess.

If your talking about a drag race...you, sir are an idiot. Flat track, TT, whatever else, I really don't have an opinion. BTW, good to know that your buddies banshee has ports.

I may interested in trading 2 stock Banshees for it.

Here are some pics of a dune chassis that I'm having built. Black Label Racing.

???I didn't think he would ever part with those..he loves those pipes. Is he going to a big bore pipe, or do you know?

Heed that warning. You can ruin the threads in the flywheel, and the puller. If you loan out your puller, tell your buddy that. I've had 2 pullers ruined from loaning them out.

Exactly the ratios I run as well! And btw, the carbon on the piston is mainly from the gas. Some my argue with me but its just fact. A rich running 4 poke has black pistons. Alky motors have clean pistons, regardless of oil ratio.

They are great pipes.

If the bearing is good, I would run it.

Should be fine, assuming your compession is below 155 - 160ish.

Common mistake for those not warned, but you said you knew not to use it.....I ruined the flywheel on my first Banshee like that, but I didn't know about the puller. You can get a puller from magic racing in a couple days, btw. Good luck and welcome to the HQ! :beer:

Get rid of the middle section of the harness and plug the CDI directly into the stator plug. Make sure all black wires go to ground..get rid of yellow/black wires. Bypass the key switch by twisting the red? and black/white? wires together. NOt 100% sure about those wire colors. Cut the CDI bracket off of the rear and re weld it on the front under the tank (with tank, and all electrical components removed), or use double sided tape and mount the CDI on the botom of the tank, if you don't ride on real rough areas. Someone will chime in with the specifics on the key bypass, I'm sure.

Great buy! I bought a set of spindle mounts for brakes by accident. The cost is significantly more. You can give Jeff Ross (www.thebomracing.com) a call, or Fullerton Sand Sports...which is actually where he orders from, I think.

My 421 is from Jeff,with minimal porting with his 20cc domes. 180 psi with fresh rings, 155 with worn out rings. 300 ft elev.

I've got RDZs on a 421 Cub, and Shearers on a 392 Cub. I love both of them. Can't compare the 2 on those different motors b/c they (the motors) rev and pull completely different. Buy the ones you can find the best deal on. I bought the RDZs new, bare for $550(?), and you can find chrome, used RDZs, CPIs, Shearers, all day long in the $400s. 200 psi? Isn't that a little much for a drag racing engine? I like 180 psi, some guys even like 160 psi.

He replaced those when he tried the Banshee plastic. Where have you been? :yelrotflmao:

I miss riding fast. In 300ft on my 4 mil, I'll never see 80 mph :sad:, and the 14 mil is so dang inconsistent that I don't make near as many passes on it, though it does go 80+ mph.

Wonder if has a ported head also? IF that Banshee has 15 hours on it.............................................................................. ................................................................................. ................................................................................. ..............................................I can't come up with a funny analogy, sorry.

Idle screw, air mixture screw, and pilot jet is the only thing that should affect idle. One or all of those could be wrong for your motor. I have no idea where you would start with the jetting with the 32 mm 2 into 1, sorry.

YOu can also look for water beaded up on the plugs. I'm still leaning toward the key bypass. I fought with mine one day so long that I had to untape another harness to follow the wires to remind myself which wires to bypass, and which to leave alone...even though I've shortened, and bypassed 3 or 4 harnesses. There are a couple wires I think that don't need to be connected to anything, just taped off...at least on my harnesses (no lights).

Pics? Ported for what stroke?

I didn't see you mention it, but I'm sure your running race gas, right?

He's already ruled that out. Swapped it with some known working Banshee plastic............still wouldn't start.

I'm sure its not easy tuning a turbo and nitrous...doesn't suprise me that it never made a pass. I've seen some slow BIG motors (4 cylinders, tripples, etc.)