Ducman

Prefereably with a round style axel carrier, stock style linkage, PC'ed black. Will consider stock style carrier, might consider a +6 too.

Just curious what pistons are you running, wiseco forged 68mm blaster pistons?

I had my dome o-rings and a few others start to melt shortyly after I broke in my 4mil cub. I tried all kinds of stuff to help cure my precieved overheating problem, jetting, timming, billet impeller, toomey radiator before I figured it out. I finally determined that it wasn't even getting very hot and puking fluid and I read on this forum about melted orings causing this. In fact I think my engine is just starting to do this again. Replace the orings in the head, I'd bet they're the problem.

Hey guys, I've been AWOL from from this site for quite some time. I tore the shock mount out of my cheap e-bay +4 swingarm this weekend. I'm 250 # and I have an eibach spring and revalved shock that would probably work on a +6 to +8 swinger for a lighter rider, it holds the ass end of my she up with ease on my +4 but I guess my e-bay swing arm shop +4 swinger wasn't up to the task of drag racing through the whoops. Who has the best deal going for a +4 swinger that can handle a little abuse. Funds are tight so I'm not looking to spend $700 if possible. I see a nice looking setup on e-bay that has a tubular trellis design that looks sweet for around 550+PC and options. I want to buy a swinger including the the round axel carrier. Modquad and chozen performance web sites are both down right now, but modquad wants $699 for theirs with PC and skid plate mounts, kinds pricy. Seems like the price went up on everything by around 30% since I last bought banshee parts. PS whats up witht the search function on this site, broken? Or is there some trick to useing it? I get error messages every time, even with the advanced search option.

The Mikunis change dump tubes - needle jet orafice ($16 per carb) and the Keihins change needles for the needle adjustment throttle range. It was hard to get my TM 34mm Mikuni's dialed in since there wasn't much jetting advice in here a while back. The mikuni still only go up to a 400 main size (same as stock banshee carbs) so I would guess you'd have to drill for alky.

I have a 421 cub, +4 swinger with 21x12x8-9P extremes and I like a 14-40 combo for all around dooning. Very much taller gearing and its too hard to launch in second for drag racing, and any lower, like 13T front, and 1rst gear is too low for some of the tight Oregon doon twisty trail hill climbs thought the trees, second is too fast in the really tight spots. I have the primary drive gold O-ring chain and steel sprockets and my chain and sprockets have lasted quite a few dune trips with a few more left. Ususally when the sprockets are wearing out really fast it is a sign that the chain is shot. Worn out sprockets will help a new chain wear out faster too.

or too much timming and/or compression and too little octane to support timming/compression.

pluss tell the porter if you are going to go with stroker domes or the spacer plate. Here's a good website link below for part/price comparisons. Vitos Vitos also, or at least used to sell a +4mm standard rod crank that still requires the spacer plate or domes but allows the use of standard pistons, not 795 series.

When you get the cylinders ported (for +4mm stroke spec) they will need to be bored and port windows deburred/chamfered to clean up after porting. No need to go any bigger than necessary, it wont add any power to go to a larger dia piston, power difference between .040 and .060 is nothing. When you get the cylinders bored it is a good idea to have the new pistons on hand when the bore is being done for the machinist to check tollerences, probably not necessary if it is a reputable builder, but needed if its the local machine shop. Pump gas will be fine with 21cc domes. Another thing to research and think about, are you going to use custom cut domes or a spacer "stoker" plate under the cylinders to make up for the +2mm higher max piston stroke height.

On a non ported motor the T6's will provide the best all around power and most top end. The DMC's are a much more low end/mid range pipe. The DMC's will provide a little more traction, come on a little smoother, but in a long drag race to the top of 6th gear the T-6's will smoke the DMC's.

Like blowit said you must use either blaster pistons (big bore) or 795 series pistons with the +5mm long rod. I'd just stick with a stock rod crank unless you want to do some insane stock stroke long rod drag motor. When I went to a 4mm stroker I lost a lot of mileage in the dunes but on the trails it wasn't that awfully bad. On my cub motor I have now its even a little worse MPG wise in the sand but I still was able to go 56+ miles on mountain logging roads, 2nd - 4th gear, and not hit the reserve.

Do a search on how to meaure the squish. If you get some "off the shelf" stroker domes you will need to measure to make sure it is correct, between .030" and .035". Less than .028" and you may have detonation or interference issues more than .040 and you start loosing power. If you give NOSS the base gasket thickness he should be able to get you prety close, if you install the cylinders and measure the deck height (distance from top of cylinder to top of piston, piston will stick out above the cylinder = negative deck height) then NOSS can make you some domes that are right on the money.

Mud sharks are heavy as hell! Thats at least 75% of your problem. I was doing +70mph down a paved road yesterday and I thought my mudsharks were going to vibrate me right off the road!

I would start out by treating it like straight alchohol and then try to fine tune the carbs.

Get your cylinders ported and some traction and it will be a different story. With the YFZ, at least my 04', if you just take the air box lid off, put on a slip-on pipe and re-jet it will wake up a make a bunch more power too.

This is where I got my last cable (below), they have one for a twist too. The springs on the TM 34mm Mikuni are stiff as F**K. You will probably want to cut a couple coils if you keep the thumb throttle. I cut mine so that the spring wants to hold the carb top about 1/2" above the carb body when it is unfastened and I still have plenty of spring to keep the slide down, still way stiffer than stock. I had a twist throttle when I first got the 34mm Mikunis and that was a lot more comfortable but I didn't like a twist in the sand whoops. vitos 34mm Mikuni and stock thumb throttle

300-310 main, needle 3rd or 4th clip from the blunt end, 27.5 pilot air screw 1.5 turns out.

If you want to be on the safe side do the 21cc domes. If you can get 93 octane at the pump, you keep your timing stock, no advance then you could probably do the 20cc domes. You definitely dont want to be too lean on your jetting or that will cause detonation too. I destroyed a motor one time because I could use 100 octane near home at 500ft elev and above but I went to the Oregon doons, sea level, in cold air and tried my needle at a leaner setting. I knew it was running lean at part throttle and was going to change it back to the previous setting but my pistons were already toast after running like that for 1 hour.

That sounds pretty close on the main. Go up a size in colder air. You might try a 27.5 pilot at around 1-2 turns out on the air screws, but if you dont have any difficulties getting it to start or idle smoothly then you can stay with the stock pilot probably at around 1/2 to 1 turns out on the air screws.

I'd probably just do the fatty's as well if you dont ever plan or porting the cylinders, the power will come on a little sooner and smoother for MX than the T-5's will. I've shipped a few things to Australia. You should be able to get the pipes shipped for $40 usd if you ship by USPS surface shipping 4-6 weeks, or around $60 usd if you use USPS air mail 4-10 days.

That's a really good setup for a dune port +4mm stroker. I had the same setup except 9 paddles. Now with the 421 cub the 9 paddles spin too much when launching in a drag race but are still fun for a dune play setup.

I have no idea what needle or needle jet orafice to tell you to use with TM34 carbs and alky but I do have 2 spare sizes lying around in my spare parts collection. P8's and Q2's. P8's are too rich for most gas banshee motors and Q2's are way to rich for a banshee gas motor. P4's and P6's are in the banshee gas range. They are $16 per carb from sudco, but If I can find them you could have them for cheap. Here is a good reference chart on sudcos website that shows what needle jet sizes are available for TM's in order from lean to rich and the exact measure of the orafice diameter. needle jet orafice

I haven't needed a pingle with my 4mm cub and 34mm carbs yet. I would like one though.

Sounds like detonation, but tipicaly that wouldn't be a problem with 22cc domes and 93 octane. Have you modified/advanced the timming? Too much timming will cause detonation. Do a search on this forum on how to measure the squish. If your squish is to tight that can cause detonation problems as well.

With the pod filters and fattys I'd go with a 27.5 or 30 pilot, and 320 mains