raxen

There is no could to it. I have seen it happen several times.

Unfortunately you are confined to the very low 70's at best with stock.

Just install a nice NOS "the only working boost bottle" and jet it for a 15 HP gain. It will tear him three to four new assholes.

Damn 93 mph, what are your mods and what gear tire combo? That's pretty good.

Gearing and tire size are an easy way to gain your top end that you are seeking but the low-end will suffer. Nitrous is fun. Porting is out of the if you are not willing to get greasy. A new head will a little better compression never hurt. +4 timing is nice. A lightened flywheel makes for nice response. You should shed some unnecessary weight for a better power to weight ratio. Junk the E-brake and things like that. Does redone carbs mean TORS elimination? What type of speed are you going for anyway?

They are not a problem for those who are in to drag but are a considerable threat to mxers. This is assuming your shee is modded lightly.

Build your own kit, 2-1 pipe, cut. Add Garrett turbo with all plumbing. For the pain and suffering of this project, you might wanna just stick to nitrous with a 35 HP shot. Even the prefab kits for shees don't right and take alot of work on your end. If you are still interested, call Mr. Turbo, they will put something together for you.

Some equipment I've got or have had in the past. NICE HU higher end Sony's (Doesn't skip with tons of bass, decent quality) Any Alpine (Great quality skips when CV Strokers start to kick hard) Nice Sub Amps MMATTs (hellous power, more noise) Positives-type D amplifier, never gets much above 25 degrees C. Nice Mid Amps U.S. Amps (Great quality output, could cook eggs on it) NICE Subs MMATTs Juggernauts (Nice bass, capable of nose bleed productions) Cerwin-Vega Strokers (Nice bass, capable of nose bleed productions) Older Precision Powers before wussification (Hit hard without pain) Earthquakes (Nice but can't hang with the 3 above) Nice mids Older Precision Powers before wussification Alpine Tweets Again older Precision Powers before wussification Qualities to check for in a HU OUTPUT power and number of outputs Signal to noise ratio Power Consumption at peak output Remote controller I personally like my 6-disc in dash standard din size HU Color of HU, does it come close to matching your dash. So you won't have an eyesore. Does it have lots of nice games built in like many of the Clarion HUs have when you are in need to pass time while your significant other shops in the mall for hours. Check for support of auxillary audio inputs for those of us who like having X-boxes in their car with good audio. Does it even have amp outputs? I have seen Sony's without it. Removeable faceplates are nice. There used to be a company that I dealt with a long time ago called Carmedia1. They are a good bunch with great prices. I highly recommend doing business with them when you make a decision.

Sounds like a great idea and worth 30.

It is worth the 30 some odd bucks.

The pro design impellers are setup to have a larger mass flow rate but a smaller coolant output velocity due to the different blade angles.

Those pipes suck all around, alot of mx run 2-1 pipe setups.

gamestop, walmart, ebay

The new impeller is about 30 on Ebay. You will need to remove the circlip on the inner side before it will come out. Also, if my memory is working correctly, there is a small bearing and seal that you should replace while you are in there. Do it right the first time.

Your place, it's not hard. You can get a list of parts you need by checking out some winning mx shees in the standings online and talking to some other people about it on the hq. Don't be afraid to get a little grease on you, it'll wash off.

Can you be more specific. What location on the radiator is the steam coming from: a weld, stem, or cap? Did you measure the head, exhaust, and coolant temperature? I had an older stock radiator that steam at the welded joint around the cap stem. I finally spent the dough on a PWR radiator off of Ebay. Also, if you are ever in the clutch cover again, it is wise to replace the stock impeller for a nicer aftermarket unit that dowsn't flex under load like the stock unit. A quick check to see if that is a need is to run a leak check on your cooling system. Check all of your lines also to check for any blockages that may have formed.

Certified junkyard material. I'd love to see the poor sap's face when they see their 2 grand rust pile gets to their door.

CPI for dragging, I have tried them on hill climbs and wouldn't recommend them for that purpose. Belly cut T3's or Schearer's are what I have seen alot of shee climbers use.

Call Tony Doukas Performance and he can give you good prices on the cap, etc. for the T-Rex.

That is great shit.

From my experiences with Edelbrock, you should definetely stick with the Holley Avenger series. I have a friend that has one on his 89 Mustang that he stripped the fuel injection from when he put in a 351 Windsor and it does a great job. His only complaint; That nice zinc plating they put on it turned a nice shade of yellow after he had it three months.

I've run an old CJ7 that was cut the hell up for a 392 hemi from an rail dragger for about two years now. It does great off road with the dominator. I have entered mud runs, some more mud runs,... I tried a Edbk but the response was way down compared to Holley.

Reed spacers are only good to hold nitrous nozzles in the intake pathway.

THe avenger is decent off-road but certainly not as good as the holley dominator hp 750 for your purpose. Now that is one bad-ass carb.

no nikasil there.