hamuel

What you running now for pilot/main/needle?? Just wondering

26mm carbs to 30mm carbs so pwk 28's and mikuni

I would SUggest checking the coil/stator like already said. I had a weak coil which Basicly only sparked on cylinder. Put a new one in and went up around 3 main sizes to richer her up. and it don't matter what cap is were. It real sounds like a dead coil like banshee370 said

well yah got the remove the lame pbrake when yah extend the swing arm. and the darn the would drag like no tomarrow

i feel the exact same way.. WHen she's running like shit i can stand coming near here. but when she's running good i can wait... it almost feels like Im sand deprived after a while

what about the air screw??? At sea level?????

the question is how good is the oil. better the oil the less friction that happens means more power. The ratio don't matter the quality of the oil is all the matters.

forget that Im a deal. I think i spent $50 for the set for my 28pwks $12 per outerwear. People charget to much of k &N's

I would go with 9's they were prefect for my fmf clam on's and no tors. I switched to the sandstars after porting. She's just a play bike.

I've always beleave start out rich and start out with the top. Dial in the mains. Get the needle with the right clip. As for the pilot does the same threaty work.. The pilot is rich enought she wants to start with out a choke. If i drop pilot to were she doesn't quiet want to start with out a choke cold, i'll still be rich on the pilot right?

it's a real commen for the clutch side to be hotter then the trany side. because of the tranny fluid acts as a kind of coolant on that side of the case. so it takes more time to heat up and cools down much faster.... My builder even confrimed that for me. .. But if it they don't even out after a while yah got a problem. I would say give it 2mins-3mins to be even

how can a smaller rim make the tires float better?

fun and blaster should be used in the same sentence. there nimble little bikes

4.5 front 4flat in the back

yah can get a 12port stroke for about that from jim for about that

the shop where i got my sandstars. said the same thing about me putting them on my shee. because itp said the tires should only be used on a 400cc or above bike. sales people some time don't got a clue what there talking about

I use red line two-stroke racing oil 40:1. then Redline lightweight shockproof gear oil for the tranny. I think it smells almost as good ast castor 927

buy pwk 28mm carbs??? 100% lighter and easyer to tune? or cut the springs yah got and then re-length them.

thats exactly what i've heard around here in oregon. there saying it eats the water pump seal. so no one in town carrys it.. atlest in eugene

duel rows weight more and rob power? over single rows?

just use the rad mount brackets for the fan. it's better for it to pull are then push it. because fans create dead spots in the center if it's infront it will inpead air from going throught the rad at high speeds. I was thinking the same thing. for when we go pay in the holes. cooler shee stays the more power she makes

yah don't get the part where they said if you stroke it yah got to port it. seeing that you ported it yah got to bore it because of spers off the ports.Now that you bored it you need new pistions.... . The reason for the LR is more power less friction and last longer..... Plus it's hard to find a non-Long rod stroker crank. I would call and contact a builder personaly and see what he says about it all. Im mean whats 1.2bones to have jim do it?

I took on and made it into a shifter for my truck

1987-94 was the original cdi, 95+ they upgrade the cdi for better spark so i hear and in 97 there were changes in the wiring harness. I could be wrong but thats what i've been told

On word. Sandstars. Go for the 22's I got the 20's kind of regreding it now but for play i swear theres nothing better. They get great hook in drag's up comp to. Mind you it's all personal opinion.