hamuel

not real because your sprockets come into play they can add a link or take one away. And yah said yah got a 4 but is it truly +4? and not +3.5 or 3.75?? easyest way is to get a 120 and cut it. after yah do it once yah should beable to order the right size next time

But theres no bling to the stockers!!!. I guess if yah like black there the best

I would say more like a 260 if yah don't got exhaust on it. maybe! a 270 if that. Real should get exhaust. so i can breath.(j/k) yah just forgot to say something about that i bet

Probly around a 175-185. and a pilot probly 45-52. But the real key is the needle getting it set just right

other moids??? come one people theres certien things yah need to say. if yah got a stock air box. probly around a 280main needle left alone. and a 30pilot. if yah clamp on's 320main 30 pilot. But all bikes run completely different and want stuff in different ways. these are just ball packs

I figured out half my problem Im missing the COLLAR for the hub to sit on thats why i can't torque them down.... WHy yah do to shave off 10 ish pounds of the front end

gacccccck!!! ooops wrong form topic

Anyone got a clue what the TORQUE SPECS for a 450/raptor fron axle/hub nut is?

I had to get a real hose clamp because it wouldn't tighten down enough. after that they fight fine

nope. that's complete different. ignore that at the min. off to the side of it yah see a another small screw thats a flat had head thats the pilot. if it's hard to start your lean on the bottom as well.

I like that link it's pretty neat!

have yah checked the plugs? Yah sound way lean on top. and probly lean on bottem would suggest trying a 42-48 pilot 162ish main.. yah just sound way lean. ALl ways jet your bike after yah change something

wow they make those? yah might or might not Me I would just go get 2 dollor thread rod 2 bolts, 2 washers(one big) one the size of the wrist pin(a little smaller) and some 3/4 pvc cut about 2 inch's long. works like a charm. cost yah like maybe 4 bucks tops!. if yah get how that tool works. it's the same basic thing just cheaper. the only time yah need is if the wrist pin just doesn't want to come out. DO NOT hammer one out or you'll bend a rod

leak on the intake side? or a left seal went to shit?

I running a 180.A 165main 50ish pilot Sounds good starting point. I'll take a top of one my carbs and see what needles i use. I know the stock ones don't work worth a sh** atlest for me. My bike likes it real rich always has, Pilot will probly be rich. THe hardest part is going to get the needle set right. it's going to act as if the other curicets are rich or lean.

IF you don't have TORS that cable will work

Missing choke tube?????? that would do it. Or air screw trun out way to far? plugged pilot? all very good chance's to cause the problem. If the pilot is smaller then a 27.5 I would suggest going to atlest that or a 30. THose are yah most common problems and simple to fix.

WEll with basicly the same mods i ran a 320 4clip 30 pilot. and mine was perfect. a stock pilot seems a little small to me seeing i could get her to start cold with a 25 just piped. but like every one else said every bike respones different. It's always better to start with in the ball park but on the rich side of things. Expecialy when yah just had her rebuilt. Just looking at the plug after a good like ride will tell you what your bike is running on avrage if it's lean rich or right on. But that's just the curcit that you normaly ride in. I could when yah hit WOT be lean or way rich seeing yah don't ride there much. Me I take a nice used plug and make sure i know what it looks like before i start a wot. THen when done remove it and look at it. It should Either stay the same color or darken up or lighten up. Every one says something different about how to do a plug check to. so your going to have to make up your own mind on how to do that.

your right. A reed spacer is need esle it will put a good sized gruve in the bottom of the drain plug and the right had sized drain hose needs to be cut and plugged and move to the side location if your not going to use the reed spacers. But after the groove is there it stops hitting the clutch arm and works the way it normaly would.. Experice explains every thing

Have you ever in your life heard of a banshee with neutral between first and second gear? personly i had never seen one with it. while warm. WEll there was that day when i had the cash for the boon tune!. He modifed the shiftstar. The little points were as tall. And Guess what NEUTRAL DOES EXIST!!! IT REALY DOES!!!!!!. Then the fact that the lightened fly wheel just made the bike that much easyer to ride!. I high recommend it! a moded shiftstar would be the 5 thing i did to a brand new bike.

Because they like to flex? and bend and break right there near the seat? I know mine were starting to show mass wear right there cutt them and less wear.

I got pwr rad for 250 bean's it's worth it's weight in GOLD!. i tell you. Bike runs 150 out and about in the closed trails it hits 160 max, And when yah come out of the trail it takes about 45 seconds for it to reduce temp to 150. ANd thats on a 80degree day takes about 20-30mins on a normal day for it to hit 150. Well worth the cash. I wouldn't mess around just do it right.

I got a pwr and Only got one complaint is the damn mounts on the side's are made like crap. Passed that. It runs 160max. in general it runs from what i hear about 35d cooler then stock. plus i only sent 250 on it.

including taping the idle screws? a hour?

do you mean stock cable or replacement cable for carbs with out tors??? if yah removed tors that cable will work. Just a side note