Wallrat

Coo...I've got a dark grey nissan titan pulling a 14ft white enclosed haulmark trailer. Bikes are a 96 CR250, 05 white/red yfz450, and the 87 black/red shee. You'll see em outside the trailer chained to the hitch. If you take sand hwy from the wash/vendor area to the sand drags you'll go right by my camp.

Still available.

Whenever you buy a used bike, first thing you should do is take apart and rebuild the carbs. Whenever you leave the bike sitting for awhile the fuel/oil starts to gum up inside the carbs. At best this is going to cause some sticking, at worst it'll plug up a jet and cause a lean condition that could lead to a blown engine. This is true for EVERY CARB out there, not just stock. Get a clymers and some carb cleaner and start pulling apart the carbs. Hose down everything really well. I often use a whole can of cleaner for each carb when they're really gooey. Its an easy job and something you'll be doing alot of in the life of the shee. As far as water goes, there really doesn't seem to be a fix for this aside from avoiding puddles.

j28d, where'd you find PWK jets that big? I saw somewhere (think it was Duncan), that had 235's but I've never seen 240's. -P.S. I could also use some mains in the 200+ range.

No there's no monthly fee and you don't need anything else to go along with it aside from 2 AA batteries and a view of a semi-unobstructed sky (trees are fine, but you might run into problems in a big city like NY). I'd recommend picking up the handlebar mount kit. It's like $8 or something and replaces the battery cover with an o-ring sealed one and includes the 7/8" mount. Its very easy to slip the unit on/off the bars but its never come loose on me in the 2+ years I've been using it. There's several information pages available by pushing a single button. From memory, you've got: -Satellite status page -overview map (zoomable from globe size down to individual roads-not much detail except for major highways, rivers, etc. though unless you get one of the software programs and download detailed road maps to the unit) -Goto page (you'll use this and the map 99% of the time) -Statistics page. Basically all the information that the gps can provide is displayed here. There's like 10 boxes that you can select what information you want to show. Current speed, top speed, distance travelled so far, distance left to target, time travelling, ETA, average speed, time spent stopped, maximum speed, heading, bearing, sunrise time, sunset time, current time, etc. There's more options than you'll ever use. Only drawback is that you can't save the information from one trip. Or you probably could using the supplied PC link cable, but I've never tried. At the beginning of your trip you'll need to reset all the values (or you can just reset specific values) if you want accurate information. Otherwise the gps will record your statistics for this trip just as if you had just shut it off briefly. Not a big deal but good to know. Other than that you've got other pages that you can access to save/search user-programable waypoints, routes, etc. I cracked the case on my Trailtech computer last season, and still haven't gotten around to ordering a replacement since the gps works so well. I'm thinking I'll probably move the TT over to my CR.

More Glue!!!

Ok I'll use the hotrods h129 crank for an example here. Its a +4 stroker, +5 longrod. The +4 is the added stroke - determined by moving the spot where the rod attaches on the crank out an extra 2mm from the center line, giving you an extra +2mm of travel in both up, and down. This is what generates more power. The +5 longrods don't do anything to increase power, all they do is decrease the stresses present on the engine thereby increasing reliability. In order to run a +4 stroker, you must either run: multiple base gaskets, a spacer plate, stroker domes, or have your stock head cut to accept the 2mm that the pistons will stick out of the top of the cyls. In addition, you'll need to get porting for the added stroke to actually feel the gains. Without porting, you'll get some gain but it will be minimal. In order to run a +5 longrod, you must use either 795 series pistons, or blaster pistons. This is because the port timing will be off if you don't. Blaster pistons start at a larger bore than the 795's, which you can get in stock bore. Either type of piston has the wrist pin located deeper .

The spark gets sent to the plugs sooner.

No problem...that'll be $1 US.

Hmm...I thought I already replied to this thread - perhaps a multi-post? Anyway I had said that I didn't think it was worth it, but that was because I thought you meant the new intake boots. If you're talking about the plate that installs in the airbox then its totally worth it. That stock filter is crap and the sooner you can ditch it the better. The only time I wouldn't recommend it is if you never ride through water. My banshee doesn't know what a puddle is so I've got dual clamp on K&N's, prior to that I had the Toomey 2:1 foam filter. Better setup I think but again, not if you ever wanna ride in some water. Hilarious is right on. A timing plate is also a great mod for $35. You can advance the timing a good 4 degrees without any negative side effects and you'll get a couple extra HP all over the powerband. You'll need a Yamaha flywheel puller (about $20), and either a clutch holding tool or an impact wrench. I picked up an electric impact from harbor freight for I think $30 on sale. Works great for smaller jobs like this. At some point you're going to need these tools anyway so its good to buy em. The impact kicks ass on the clutch side as well.

Its not that you won't get any benefit by having T6's and porting, its just that T5's respond better to porting than the T6's. I'd say talk to your builder and let him know you'll be running T6's. Chances are you won't make as much HP as with T5's but you'll still get some nice gains.

Did you let the bike warm up for a few minutes b4 tearing down that road in 5th? I've seen that exact same thing happen b4. Piston heats up faster than the cylinders causing it to expand and it cold seizes. Once the engine cools off it works fine (cept for all the scouring on the cyls).

Feel free to stop by my camp if you're up in the area. IMO its a pretty sick place to camp. No dust like the washes, nobody camped right next to you, no music playing all night like gecko, etc. Only drawback is at least 1 person in the group needs to have a 4x4 (and a tow strap).

I always use barnett dirt digger.

Somebody got a bender for xmas.

Measure how much the pistons extend above the cyls in millimeters and double that number. That's how much extra stroke you have.

As long as you don't go overboard with the domes you don't have to change a thing. At sea level you can get down to about a 20cc dome. Any lower and you'll need to run either a mix or full race gas. Plus at higher compression, the crank is more likely to seperate so you should have your crank welded before going too high. Just stick with a 20cc or above and you'll have nothing to worry about.

Hehe...reminds me of my last twist throttle. Everytime you pinned it it'd get stuck there. Made for some interesting rides.

I, for one, appreciate a woman that knows her shit. But you my friend, have a penis. Internet posers are lame...

Man, you guys have the whitest sand I've ever seen! That shiz looks like sugar!

The name don't even enter into it. Homeboy was all "tee-hee, aren't I cute with my banshee and fake boobs". Then he get's called on it and he drops the whole character and goes into this all-knowing 2 stroke mode. Fucker needs to get a life or at least go back to his jet ski forum.

Brooke's darkside? Uh...there's a joke here but I'm just not finding it. Oh ya...I think they should hang him just to show the liberals what racism really is.

$10 says you get some stupid 450 rider asking you where you got those dual pipes.

Sweet! I always wanted a yes-man!

Usually its either a cracked intake boot or a leaking crank seal. Spray some carb cleaner around the intake and listen to see if the revs pick up.