Wallrat

.035 is quite a bit. Most guys only go .030 MAX without running into squish problems. I'd measure your squish and your compression. Its possible you might have to have the head machined to give yourself more squish clearance.

Make sure you run a bead of silicone around the stator cover and the wire harness plug. You got water into there somehow and that ain't a good thing.

Man you replaced alot of parts when there's a 95% chance its just the TORS f'n you up.

Crap...this was just covered in another thread. Its like 1/2 inch or something. Just put a measuring tape between the tires.

Naw man, you're making your bike different, and there aint nothing wrong with that. Looks good man. Nice DIY!

Yeah save ur money on this one. Pretty much the only thing that they really do well is cause premature wear of your intake boots. I don't even run a crossover tube on my shee. For $35 you could get a ricky stator timing plate and actually pick up about 2 free hp. Oh ya and welcome to the HQ!

Lightswitch? On T5's? First time I've heard that claim. T5's roll on almost as smooth as fatties.

First off why does he need bigger carbs? Yeah they'd help a ton with the top end but he should be able to get by with stock. 19cc domes could be pushing it if he's running 91 octane at sea level. If he increases the timing 20cc domes would be pushing it, 19 would be detonation city.

I'm 90% sure I'm gong. I camp out in the sand just off Gecko road - directly across Gecko and about 200 yards straight out from the ranger station

Hey man the nicest set of bolt ons I ever saw were on a damn transvestite.

I'd try 330 mains and maybe even a 27.5 pilot. Where's your airscrew at? Those mains should be too rich so try working down from there. Oh and move your needle to the 4th position from the blunt end. For some weird reason, almost every FMF bike I've ever seen loves that damn 4th clip.

Jeff at FAST is popular, so is PassionRE. Alot of folks also like Eric Gorr. I had my porting done by a local builder. Custom Creations up in Riverside area. I've got a mild dune port which gave me gains top to bottom, mostly in the mid to upper range. I'd stay away from Trinity but thats up to you. http://www.customcreationsatv.com/

Hahahahahahahaha! Dude I'm sorry but this shit is so f'd up I gotta laugh. If I were you I'd be getting my money back and going with somebody else.

With your mods you shouldn't need to run 50/50 even with +4 advance. Although you'll be on the edge after the advance if you're at sea level. Usually a timing advance doesn't require a rejet.

You'd probably have to buy hose by the foot and the end fittings + tools to crimp them on. Then you'd have to route the hoses so as not to risk melting or kinking them anywhere. I dunno man, sounds like a major pain in the ass for just trying to avoid learning how to properly use a foot brake.

Porting prices start at about $200 and will give you way more power than just changing the carbs.

You can contact ebay and give them his paypal address. Unfortunately as of recently you can't look up a member's ebay name by searching their paypal addy, all you can get is their feedback score. If you google his name he's all over the net.

His feedback on ebay is around 90% so I guess ur not the only person he's screwed. Don't suppose you've got an ebay name for him?

I'm pretty sure this is the same guy. Teaches art in Wichita, Ks... Some info bout him: news story & studio address/phone #

pretty much...with any mod like this its best to move up at least a couple sizes for the trial run and then back it down until its right.

I just listed my old school fmf's. Not as fancy as some but fairly cheap. LINK

I've got some of the older style fmf pipes for sale. Basically they're almost identical to fatty's cept they don't have the head pipe bend or say fatties on em. I've ridden other bikes with similar mods and fatties and they're very close to the fatties. Condition is fair but they could be cleaned up if you wanted to do it - no dents or cracks just some surface rust. Pretty much standard on any older pipes with nickel finish instead of chrome. This is for pipes only but any of the non-sst FMF silencers will fit as will toomey silencers with a little modding. I was running em with turbine core II's but switched to T-5's. Unfotunately I have to keep the TC2's for the rare occasion when I need spark arrestors. Pics available if interested. $100 + shipping from 92649 (SoCal).

I'll expand a bit more on what ssanddemon said. By advancing the timing you get gains from bottom to top. Unfortunately there's a limit to this. Too much advance and you can run into overheating or even detonation issues (detonation can be cured by running a higher octane fuel). Along the same lines is an aftermarket/milled stock head. Either will increase the compression giving you gains bottom to top. Again though, there's a limit. Too much compression will also lead to detonation if you aren't running race gas. Combining the two mods can be done, but you have to do some research to find out what you can safely run at your elevation. Most guys stick with a +4 degree timing advance and like 20 or 21 cc domes at sea level.

For the price you'd pay to have somebody else rebuild it to stock specs you could build yourself a +4 stroker. Similar thing happened to me last year. Here's what you need to make a stroker: Wiseco H129 crank Wiseco 795 series pistons rings, gaskets, yamabond,seals, etc. 3 heavy duty clutch springs cut stock head bored or better yet, new carbs used cyls if your current ones are too trashed (take em to a builder, you'd be surprised how deep a gouge can be bored out. porting Here's the other stuff you should do while you're in there: water pump impeller lighten flywheel modified shift star reeds new intake timing plate The only special tools you'll need are: clymers manual flywheel puller clutch holding tool, or better yet, an electric impact ($35 at harbor freight) torque wrench If you post where you're from you might find a member nearby willing to help you out. Its pretty easy but nice to have somebody around that's familiar with the teardown.

Dumont is, for jetting purposes, at sea level. Sounds like you had a combination of problems on this one. Both air leak and not running race gas when you need to. But it may be just detonation...I've seen extreme cases where a piston had a hole blown through it from detonation alone.