Wallrat

Do you have equal pressure exhaust coming out both pipes?

Hehe...if that were true then I think the owner of k&k would be missing his pee-pee by now.

Reed spacers can be run on either side of the reeds, although for their intended purpose of picking up the top, they'd need to be between cyls and reeds. I ran mine inbetween reeds/carbs just cuz I needed to to clear the clutch lever w/ my carb bowl.

Its not gonna be a very good play bike. A buddy of mine has a 7mm cub and he can't keep the front end down on his +2 swinger. Right now he's looking at a +6 if I remember correctly. Anything over +4 and the handling starts to really go to shit. So yeah, you'll need a lockup clutch and straight cut gears for that DRAG motor.

I'm running dual spots and I've also got some helmet mounted dual spot MR11's. If I had to do it again I think I'd go with dual floods, or maybe 1 spot, 1 flood on the MR16's. Seeing in the distance isn't a problem even when I aim my spots at the ground. Vibration is alot more noticeable with spots so it gets kinda annoying - for me anyway. If you don't get em by Prez weekend and wanna check em out feel free to drop by my camp. I'll be just off Gecko/78, 200 yards straight out from the ranger station, dark grey nissan titan w/ a white enclosed haulmark trailer.

I'll be camped w/ DUNEDEMON over in the dunes straight out from the gecko Rd ranger station. Dark grey nissan titan and a 14 ft white enclosed haulmark trailer.

M'kay well I have no idea what elevation that is but you could prolly run 19 or 20cc domes in the head, advance the timing 4 degrees and still be okay for 50/50. Pretty much ur not gonna wanna go longer than a +4 swingarm. Even then those things kinda ride like a tank but they're still dune-able. Consequently you'd prolly be better off sticking with stock cylinders for now. You could definately run cheetah cubs, but it might be a bit of a handful.

Depends on your mods. Bigger engines can spin more paddles.

I dunno if they're in stock yet but worth looking into. Sorry, old torches going on the yfz. I did a how-to write up on the RS 200w stator and sent it to TT. I'll have to pull out my stocker and see how similar it is so I can write that up. Yes you have to run a battery as well as convert the lighting system to DC According to TT, no they will not work off the stock stator, even though its only 70w you lose some in the DC conversion.

Never heard anything about his swingers but it's mild steel, whereas most aftermarket swingers are cromoly (stronger and therefore can be made lighter). The stock swinger is also mild steel so its not neccesarily a bad thing, just something you might wanna consider. For a roundhouse you need a roundhouse bearing carrier. Other than that everything you already have will still work. Just gotta find a way to get it all off the axle. Oh and you'll need a longer chain if your going extended.

FMF's have a bit smoother transition into the powerband and come on a c-hair earlier, but they also top out lower. They've got a tad more low end than the t5's. Unfortunately FMF quality is nowhere near toomey's. Can't get something for nothing I guess.

Elevation? Temperature? 280 is prolly too small. Usually pipes and filter bumps u up into the 300-320 range, but it depends on elevation and temp.

What's your jetting? Mods? Elevation? Temperature?

Ok and what size jets are you running? Any fuel coming out the overflow tubes from the carbs (puddle of gas on the ground)? Elevation? Temperature outside?

Ur prolly a little rich on the bottom so when u choke it its too rich. Dial out the airscrews 1/2 turn and see if it helps.

Or it could just be running leaner due to colder temps. Check for an airleak first, if you don't find one, dial in your airscrews 1/2 turn or so, then maybe go up on the main jet a size or 2. What jets are u running? What's the temp there? What mods? What elevation?

Toomey T-5's are a very good all-around pipe that would be a pretty safe bet for anyone. There's other pipes out there that'll make more power, but the t5's are the most versatile/easy to ride. Pick up a wiseco H129 crank (+4 stroke, +5 longrod), some wiseco 795 series pistons, v force 3 reeds, cool head w/ stroker domes, billet water pump impeller, good strong clutch + heavy duty springs (6 or em, and no barnett crap), adjustable timing plate, 200w stator if u like riding at night alot, clamp on k&n's, porting, maybe a better radiator or at least some inline coolers and engine ice, and I'd definately recommend new carbs. 35pwk's would be a good choice. The stock carbs are pretty shitty and tend to stick if u ever hit a puddle. You could technically run em but I think its worth changing em out. Where u gonna be riding at? Do you wanna run race or pump gas? Do you want a general duner or a semi-drag bike?

Well first off u gotta make sure that its found the satellites. It'll say on the sat. screen what the accuracy is. Just wait till its less than 50 feet. Click the page button and change to the map screen to double check that its right. Then hold down the button on the front of the gps to save that location as a waypoint. It'll then take u to a screen where u can edit the information like coordinates, waypoint name, symbol, etc. If u wanna change something then move that button on the front up or down to highlight the value u wanna change and push the same button to enter the edit screen for that value. Don't change the coordinates unless ur entering some coords. u got off the net (say like China Wall for example). Once everything is the way u want it scroll down to [ok] and push the same button in. Waypoint is saved. To go back to the waypoint click the find button (on the side w/ the magnifying glass), select waypoint (either nearest or by name) highlight that waypoint in the list and click the button on the face. It'll bring up that same edit screen with options like goto, map, or i think edit. Select map to see it on the map, or more commonly you'll select goto. It'll then automatically go to the goto screen and show an arrow pointing towards ur waypoint. If it isn't pointing the right way walk around a little bit and it will. You can also change the secondary info on that screen by highlighting/clicking them. I like to keep it set to distance and current speed. BTW, don't bother trying to do this stuff indoors. You need to be able to see the sky in order for a gps to work accurately. You can setup waypoints inside by manually entering coords, just select [use with the gps off] on the submenu on the first screen.

W. is a tool. But so was Clinton, and Bush Sr. And hell while we're at it - Reagan, Carter, Ford, etc, etc... When's the last time we had a really good prez? That said, every one has had at least one redeeming quality. Hell, even tricky dick gave us a foreign policy that's still in use today. There's never gonna be a president that is perfect for all people all the time so just deal with the shit you don't like, and support the fool for 4 years.

What kinda carb was that? I've never heard of a single being harder than duals. I think singles are a better way to go for 90% of the people out there, but you lose a c-hair's worth of power on top so most people right them off without ever trying it out.

That's where you're supposed to keep your assless chaps and backup KY.

Dan if ur out at Glamis for Prez day then stop by my camp. I've got the same GPS and can walk you thru it...its all pretty simple once you figure out a few things.

Just make sure you re-tighten down all the hose clamps after the first time it gets hot. Clear hoses tend to get a little squishy when heated.

Personally, for front shocks I think the TCS has a slight edge over Elka. For the rear, TCS doesn't offer a whole new shock, just a rebuild of the stock one. Its decent, but if you can afford an aftermarket rear I'd go that route.

It'd be a good idea to pull the carbs and clean em. Change the oil, look for water while its draining. Pull off the stator cover (left side of engine) since those things aren't the most watertight and you don't want your flywheel rusting. Clean the air filter. Add some new oil. Hit all the zerks on the suspension with some grease. Alot of this stuff you should be doing after every ride in watery/muddy conditions.