Wallrat

Well stock won't work, I can vouch for that. +2 is where I'm heading.

For that amount of money you prolly won't do any better than running yfz shocks with some good arms. Its not a great setup, but its better than stock.

Was there any fuel on the air filter? Have you cleaned the carbs? Have you swapped spark plug wires to see if it still runs shitty on the left?

FMF's seem to love the needle in the 4th position (one slot towards the pointy end from where yours is now). With jetting its always better to start rich and go down from there. If you get it ported, talk to whoever does your porting about the jetting. If you stay stock, then I'd start with a 310 or 320, but that's without knowing your elevation or temperature. Porting runs anywhere from $200-$600.

Are you running a Terry Cable (stainless braided line)? If so that's the same problem I had. I had to change the routing a dozen times just to get it to where it was barely useable with all the adjustments maxed out. I was able however to get the free play within acceptable limits. Best advice I can give is to get a motion pro cable for a blaster.

Also you should check your compression with the engine hot.

Most people will suggest a timing plate since keys can shear. Granted I ran a degree key for 2 years without a problem but when I rebuilt my engine I swapped over to a ricky stator plate. Most people don't ever adjust em after the first tuning, but its nice for the peace of mind. Besides, its only $35. Either advancing the timing or raising the compression is a good mod, but you can only go so far. What that limit is depends on your elevation and whether or not you want to run race gas. At sea level, you'd prolly be best not going over 22cc domes and +4 advance. Higher elevations can handle smaller domes. If you don't wanna drop a couple hundy on a head, you can get your stock head shaved for under $50. Just don't go over 30 thousandths or you'll run into squish problems. Only drawback to that is you don't get the additional cooling and you can't change domes. On the otherhand, your engine will look more stock so you get that sleeper effect.

Might wanna check out glamisinfo on your own first. Its kinda uh..adult-ish. There'll be a bunch of us out there this next weekend. Bunch of East Coasters are staying over at Pad 2 and then several others are scattered here n' there. Dunno how soon you were planning on going... [edit] Nevermind, just saw ur not local.

This site blows. If it wasn't for the HQ do you know how fat my bank account would be???

Wenches??? Dude that rocks! What model was that? I need me some wenches!

Click benbb's faq in my signature. Throttle response is dictated mostly by the pilot circuit. I also agree with FB.

Tyler pretty much summed up my viewpoint, although he forgot to mention that it not only weighs as much as a Yugo, but really looks like one as well. I'm sorry Trip but the DS is just one ugly machine. I think it actually takes a more skilled rider to handle the DS since you're having to throw around the weight of 2 quads vs. 1. That's cool that you like it and all but I think your crazy to give up ur shee for a DS.

Any auto store will have it.

If ur asking cuz you've seen the occassional bike puke oil when stood up then ur observing one of the differences between a wet sump vs. a dry sump. Usually higher performance engines use a dry sump but watch out...I know the older Predators had a wet sump. Found that one out the messy way. If its a dry sump go ahead and stand her up, but I'd let her sit for 5 min or so before starting it just to be safe.

It became available in 03 or 04 if I remember right. Check ebay for a rear brake assembly and look for a bunch of wires hanging off it.

California registrations have the engine VIN on them as well. Dunno about elsewhere tho... Engine # is not the same as the frame #. I'd tell the guy to sand off the paint over the VIN's or its no deal. Worst thing that could happen is you don't buy it. Prolly won't even have to take the paint completely off. Just a few passes with some sandpaper and you should be able to make the #'s out enough to verify em.

Soap n' water has gotten me by in a pinch (for washing that is). Makes an awful mess though! For oil use the aerosol K&N oil.

I think a better question would be: What piece of rotten dog turd of a quad would you rather ride a DS650 over? I think the only thing worse than the DS is the Kawi KFX 700.

I'd rather ride a 400 than a ds!

Sounds like either a clogged jet or maybe even a reed problem. Mine had similar symptoms after I rebuilt it. Turned out one of my v force 2 screws had worked loose.

yeah u can. I've got a 97 swingarm on my 87.

Just throw a some plastic bags over the air filter setup and exhaust pipe outlets. Then hose away!

Yeah that's a normal problem, but correctable.

I disagree. I felt that the FMF's came on slightly earlier and easier while the t5's had more of a kick. Basically they're almost identical in riding but the quality of t5's is 100x better than FMF.

Well most numbers I've seen for a 4mm cub put it around 90+HP. For that I'd recommend at least a +4 swingarm. If you wanna keep the swingarm short for better handling why get cubs? A 4mm w/ stock cyls is still gonna run like a raped ape. I've got a 4mm with a mild dune port on stock cyls and I can't keep the front end down on the stock swinger. I'm hoping that I can get away with a +2.