Wallrat

Go for it Forest!

Personally I wouldn't go w/ vitos. For some reason I'm only seeing their 404 kit. Keep in mind if you get a stroker you're going to need bigger carbs, new filters, decent pipes, reeds, porting, intakes, cut head or domes, pistons, seals, gaskets...

PM Cotton Eye Joe...he was looking for some lights before.

I guess it depends on your mechanical ability and attention to detail. You've gotta split the cases, which to some people is no big deal. Really all you're doing is switching out cranks, although there's a few other mods you should do while you're in there. Difficulty isn't usually the issue - cost is. It's gonna run you $2000-$2500 if you do all the labor yourself.

Dammit here I am being witty and insightful and she gets all the props. I think you might be onto something. Instead of stricter laws, heavier fines, etc. which all rely on overworked police to work even harder, why not make it legal to shoot bb guns at illegal OHV riders? I know I wouldn't ride 100 feet from a firing line of houses filled w/ itchy trigger fingers!

Where are you located? Here's what I would do w/ a couple g's (w/ links where I could get em): Fab rear A-arm mounts - $100 Quicksand A-arms - $675 for chrome TCS Front shocks w/ rezzies - $875 TCS re-valved stock rear shock - $450 Right there you're looking at $2100. If you've got a few more bucks add in some stainless brake lines and swap the bushings over to bearings. I dunno how tight the trails are that you ride, but you might not want to go too wide.

I didn't know you rode a Raptor! Is it pretty tippy at those speeds?

I dunno what's up w/ their site but I registered 2 days ago and still haven't been approved. I think the only viable solution is gonna be some form of peer pressure. If these residents can start snapping pictures of the guys that are being dicks, then forward these pictures to us riders, we can identify the machine and post said pictures on the appropriate forum(s). They've already been posting em at the local shops. Hopefully enough people will see the picture and eventually word will get back to this guys' buddies who'll tell him to knock it off. Okay...perfect world. My other idea involves midgets and chainsaws... Actually I wanted to hook up w/ some of these folks so I can head out there and see the area in question myself. I have this idea...if the area is pretty large maybe it would be possible to designate a small portion way in the distance as 'legal' riding, and maybe give 1 access road to/from said area w/ a fairly low speed limit to keep the dust down for the residents. I dunno, just thinking that maybe some of the riders would be more willing to listen if the residents showed willingness to negotiate.

Man Wheatchex...good thing you didn't stop by here 3 months ago. It was really in the shitter then. I for one think this place has cleaned up a bit.

Oh yeah I forgot about float height. Good call Lightninn!

I can think of several SoCal areas that have seen closures in the past 15 years. That's how it happens. Some riders are dicks, residents get pissed, area gets closed. I know of at least 1 state without a single place for legal riding; who says that can't happen anywhere else?

Most harley's don't go back n' forth on the same stretch of street all day and half the night. Few times a day is annoying, but tolerable to all but the most anal retentive. The problem I see is that the cops are feeling pressured to do something. Since catching a guy on a dirtbike usually requires at least a couple units plus helicopter backup, that's alot of resources just to write a ticket for trespassing. Much easier and cheaper solution is to just ban OHV's. Few punks gotta fuck it up for everyone.

Not in California. Pretty much unless its a designated OHV area its illegal to ride there. Public land is off-limits to OHV's. Granted its often overlooked when its out in the boonies, but these folks have people tearing it up on their streets (dirt) and within eye/earshot of their homes. Pretty irresponcible behavior on the part of the riders if you ask me.

T5's are great pipes, but you need the additional hush kit or bolt on "sparkys" to make em legal. Pro Circuit and FMF seem to have the best spark arrested pipes out there. PC's are a tad better quallity-wise. Any mod you find that you think you might want try searching for on here. If you still have some questions then ask away. That's the best way to save yourself money.

No hookups. Usually its pack it in pack it out. Some of the bigger weekends they'll drag in dumpsters, but these are usually full by mid-weekend. Here's a copy/paste of a camp write up I did a few weeks ago: For camps you've got the washes behind the Glamis Beach Store that follow the railroad tracks. There's culverts under the tracks and each one is spraypainted with a number starting with 1 and going up the deeper you get. Washes are kinda family oriented, and well packed down so RV's can get in/out without much problem. They're also close to the hills, the lower #'s being close to Oldsmobile and the higher #'s near China Wall. Drawback is its very dusty there, especially on a holiday weekend. My allergies go nuts everytime I try to camp there. Also on busy weekends you get stuck in traffic driving in/out of the dirt road behind the store. Next up is the Glamis Flats - about 1/2 mile past the store. This is where the vendors set up on the weekends. Gets crowded here quick and you're most likely gonna be camping nearby to one of the sand highways that leads either to the vendors, or to the hill. Either way, there tends to be alot of traffic. Dust is also a major problem here, but probably a little better than the washes. Keep going on the 78 about another 1.5 miles and you get to Gecko Rd. This is the only paved road camping. Gecko goes down about 6 miles or so, with several camping turnouts called pads along the way. That's why u'll here people say I'm camping at pad 3, pad 4, etc. Gecko tends to be more the party area but I doubt its any more rowdy than the washes. Either place don't be surprised when your neighbor has his stereo blasting Snoop's latest cd at full volume, on repeat, till 4am. Your neighbors will be closer on Gecko, but then you don't have the dust. If you've got a 4x4 then camping out in the sand is always an option - its legal anywhere although I think ur supposed to be 100ft away from the road or something. My camp is close enough to the road that we can drag out the few RV's in our group with our trucks. We're far enough away from everyone (thanksgiving weekend our closest neighbor is usually about 100 yards away), but we're not totally isolated either. Only drawback to camping out there is every moron in Glamis has this urge to ride right next to any camps in the sand instead of taking advantage of the miles of open terrain all around. I don't get it, and the few times they're going slow enough they get an earfull from our camp. But still, with our vehicles forming a circle the kids can play in camp with little worry about them getting run over.

Whole lotta suggestions w/out people even knowing what kinda riding he does...

Could be an air leak, could be a water pump. Both are serious if that's indeed what it is. Get a can of carb cleaner, start up the bike, and hose down the intakes between the cylinders and the carbs (especially on the left side). You wanna listen for the rpms to pick up. If they do, you have an air leak and you'll need to replace the intake boots. If no air leak is detected, then you may have sheared your water pump. The stock ones are plastic and on occassion will seperate from the metal shaft that drives them. Billet ones can be purchased for $70 or so and will also cool better. Pick up a clymers to find out how to get access to the water pump impeller.

Did anybody actually read their discussions? Apparently not. So lemme summarize: -Group is mostly made up of home owners in SoCal. -Said homes are on the edge of the desert, but not a designated riding area. -Many OHV users haul ass thru the neighborhood and into the dirt behind the houses -There are several legal riding areas a short distance away. Sorry guys, but I have to agree w/ most of what's being said over there. There's a few nutjobs but most of em just don't wanna listen to a bunch of 4 strokes w/ race exhausts riding back n' forth 100 yards from their bedroom window all day/night. I guess recently some guy went out there to tell a rider that he was on private property and the guy tried to run him over. Cops are involved and are looking for the rider. I haven't seen anything suggested about closing down legal riding areas.

What's w/ all the "What's my HP" threads lately? If its that important for you guys to know take it to a dyno.

Buy a clymers and look at the wiring diagram. Telling us you have an empty socket doesn't give us alot to work with.

For what kinda riding?

Wow...lots of questions. Most of the stuff you've asked about can be found by doing a search. You haven't asked anything that hasn't already been covered. I'll offer up a brief summary suspension-wise since that's your primary concern: J-arms blow. There's 1, maybe 2 manufacturers that offer extended j-arms but its really not the best way to go. J-arms put some weird stresses on the bike and you end up blowing thru bushings like crazy. Best idea is to either fabricate the rear mounts for the a-arms or buy an a-arm frame (they switched to a-arms in 92 I think). If you decide to weld it up yourself, easiest way is to find a buddy w/ an a-arm banshee and buy your a-arms. Then basically copy what's on the newer banshee and use your a-arms as a jig. Quicksand is probably the most popular a-arm maker on the HQ but there's several other good brands out there. For shocks, you're basically looking at different levels of quality/adjustability. Generally, I'd put em in this order: YFZ450's - good for stock a-arm length. Need to be re-valved for wider arms. Low end works - okay shocks, but nothing to write home about High end works - pretty good shocks Low end elkas - nice high end elkas - very nice TCS - Very very nice Axis - Some folks may disagree w/ my order but that's my own personal viewpoint so they can lick sack.

You sure you got spark on both sides? Stuck float doesn't always overflow but usually that's the case. My guess is spark.

Check the date guys...thread was started over a year ago.

Probably either out of adjustment or you bent a shift fork. If its just an adjustment then you might need a new one of those oblong screws. So that's $2.50 for the screw, plus oil, coolant, and a clutch cover gasket. If its a shift fork, they're only $28.50 each, but you gotta split the cases. So figure it'll cost you the amount of the fork, about $60 worth of gaskets, seals, and fluids - and a weekend's worth of time. So should be under $100. Cheap enough?