Wallrat

Nope, they won't.

Its normal for a stock basket that's seen any use - but its not good. Only fix is to upgrade to an aftermarket basket. Or just re-install and hope for the best.

For pump gas you're looking at 22 or maybe 21cc's, depending on if you've got any timing advance or not. For race gas, go as small as you want, but keep in mind that higher compression = more frequent rebuilds.

Right now Trinity is the only company making a 2:1 intake. Might be good to design one of those so you can actually have a product with some marketing potential.

795's are a mock up of blaster pistons but made in stock banshee sizes. They are not stock banshee pistons! Prior to 795's, anybody getting a longrod (stroker or not) had to run blaster pistons. Since the smallest you can get a blaster piston is 66mm you would have to blow by several bores on your stock jugs. Once you're bored out over 66mm it doesn't matter if you buy blaster pistons or 795's.

If you don't notice a change after all that work either your jetting is seriously screwed or the guy that did your porting should be shot.

try switching spark plug wires

Might wanna look up a Clarke tank. They look infinitely better than the IMS ones. www.clarkemfg.com

Or riding fast with the clutch pulled in (such as you might do when going down a large hill). Either scenario will weld the rod and ball together. There's a kit out there to replace it with a pancake bearing to eliminate this problem. Or you can just modify your riding habits.

Stock cranks aren't 100% rebuildable so reliability-wise, you'd actually be better off going with a new aftermarket crank.

In that case you should work on suspension. One little dip at 100mph and you're done! Hell even 60 thru an open field is gonna be scary on stock suspension! 100mph is pretty rare on a quad. Really there's not much point since the terrain rarely lends itself to those kinds of speeds. Even the highly modified drag bikes rarely see 100mph, and the ones that do are usually for use on pavement or at least a groomed track. I'm not even sure you can get 100mph on pump gas - maybe with nitrous? For trails you'll use more of the low/mid range but you're talking about building a bike that is all top end. In other words, you'll never make a bike that's good for trails but can do 100mph once you hit the fields. I agree with the previous post. Try riding the shee first, I'm betting that you'll pucker before it even tops out in 6th gear.

Clutch problems wouldn't affect how the engine revs since the clutch is all about getting the engine power to the wheels. Do you have TORS still? If so, get rid of that. Check that you have exhaust coming out both pipes - pressure should be about equal. Let us know and we'll see from there.

You can use any type of connectors you want. Pick some up at home depot, ace, etc. Everything else should be fine.

Timing changes are easy enough that you can do em out at the riding area if you feel inclined. Try going out with stock, then advance it 2

Specifics about your bike would help diagnose the problem. Best guess if all you did was replace a crank and change the timing: 1. you f'd up the reassembly 2. the problem that caused the crank to fail originally hasn't been fixed Yes, severely retarded timing could cause your problem, as could a number of other things, like reversing the slides on the carbs (assuming you're using stock carbs). See why we need to know the mods and everything you did during the rebuild?

I made my own for under $100, carb included. Bought some 1.5" aluminum tube and a small chunk of 1/4" aluminum plate for the flanges. Found a used 35pwk on ebay for $60 shipped. Then got a piece of silicone hose off a performance car site for about $8 (the kind used with intercoolers n' stuff). Mocking it all up was kinda a pain in the ass but not too bad. Get somebody to send you some photos of a graydon intake and copy that design. If you don't have the skills to weld it yourself it shouldn't be more than $100 for sure. Just be sure to bring the engine in because they'll need it to get the flanges at the right angle. I could barely TIG weld when I did mine, so the welds are god-awful, but it works and doesn't leak.

There's 4 bolts by the exhaust ports, 1 at the top rear of the engine, and 2 underneath. Easiest way is remove the tank. Definitely pull the plugs. Lift the front of the engine straight up, slide the whole thing forward a couple inches to clear the top rear mount, then rotate it sideways and slide it out.

The stock stator is 70w on the lighting circuit, not 100.

You think that's bad, check this out: How not to ship a Plasma TV

I think the biggest they make is a 230, so I'm guessing there's some error here. The problem is your jetting, not the mods. My guess would be the pilot jet since its the low end that's tanked. Singles can be a little picky about the needles they use as well.

Yup, the 35 works great as a single carb regardless of your other mods.

I agree. A nice 35 pwk will NEVER hang up. TORS frequently malfunctions, and its pretty rare to have your stock carbs stick. IMO, a working kill switch is a great alternative to the crappy TORS system.

stick weld, 3/32" 7018

Whoops! That's supposed to be $2000.