Wallrat

First # - Tire diameter. Bigger handles worse, but elongates more at speed. Most duners run a 20". Most draggers use a 22". You'll need to change your gearing if you change this number from what you ran before. Diameter has nothing to do w/ grip. 2nd # - Tire width. Wider tires float better and get more grip. But they also create more drag and are heavier. 3rd # - wheel diameter. I think I pretty much explained this one.

Anti-fade is a honda thing I believe. Yes you can replace the locknuts. Several companies make them but most are aluminum. Problem w/ that is you've got 2 small bolts that you gotta tighten. Aluminum strips REALLY easily. I believe both Duncan and Team Industries makes one out of stainless. Here's a link to K&K

Dude lefty! At least warn her before you do the ol' longstroke! -at least we know Brooke doesn't have one of those rubber assholes!

The extra paddle will get you out of the hole quicker but you'll suffer at speed. If you were doing 100ft drags then the 9 paddle would prolly be quicker for ya. But for any actual length track you'll be faster on 8's. With regard to size. A smaller wheel (not tire) will be lighter and will also let the tire elongate more, giving you better top speed w/out sacrificing the bottom end. On the other hand, a smaller wheel will allow more tire roll during turns so the handling won't be nearly as nice as a 10" wheel. Bigger diameter tires emphasize both of these attributes.

A buddy of mine has one that I've ridden and they're okay. They're kinda average across the board IMO. They'll do everything you want, but they don't shine in any area. The guy that owns the Pred won't go near my shee, but I did manage to get him on the wife's yfz. He loved it but said he wouldn't trade his pred for one.

Tranny/clutch oil. Your crank is lubricated via premix and aside from the water pump, coolant has no business being in your bottom end.

You do have a crankcase vent. One hose comes out of the water pump area and the other is under the rear engine mount. These both go into a T fitting underneath your carbs and then a single vent line runs up under the gastank, and over the frame behind the radiator. Technically you could put a filter on this but I've never heard of anyone doing it.

Longrods don't rev up as quick or as high, but they increase reliability so most non-racers go that route.

If you still decide to go w/ a stroker and wanna stay on the cheap you'll need: crank (longrod is usually better) 795 series pistons (to accomodate longrods) cut stock head to accept added stroke carbs pipes reeds intakes air filters billet impeller (since you're in there anyway) porting chain/sprockets gaskets, seals, fluids, assorted rebuild stuff Basically w/ pipes the best ur gonna do is about $2500-ish. A stroker w/out porting gives you very little added power. Oh and I wouldn't recommend the spacer plate route.

Use a die grinder w/ some of those 3M roloc discs...take ya an hour.

I need 2 upper arms + bolts

Just polish up the stock one.

Yeah 8 paddle isn't going to be enough. You should be able to pull 10 paddles.

Taller tire + smaller rim will allow the tire to elongate more as you pick up speed, thereby giving you more speed on top and not sacrificing any on the bottom. Rip, for your mods there's no way you should run anything other than an 8 paddle-non extreme.

Well there's your problem. Its upside-down!

I rode some CPI BB's on a 7mil cub the other day and I have to admit they're a nice pipe. Less on bottom than the T5's I'm running on my 4mm but they rev to the moon. The only complaint I have is they're annoyingly loud. Well not only are they loud, but the pitch is just right to make my fillings resonate.

I USED my old PC to test gravity. Unfortunately this was confined to a one-time test. But it did last for 7 stories so that made it slightly more useful than it had been previously.

Macs rock! The only people that don't agree are people that never gave em a chance. BTW...I like the single gif much better bigred!

Personally I'd avoid J-arms. I've got an 87 and I go thru bushings like crazy. The j-arms put some weird stresses on the frame. Should be 91 that they changed over to a-arms.

Check the plugs and your compression. Who knows what you sucked up.

This forum goes thru builder fads. Right now seems to be F.A.S.T. Prior to that it was Gorr. Before that it was PassionRE. All of em are good builders but that's not to say that you don't have a good builder local to you as well. Just ask around and see what people in your area are running. Talk to that local builders then talk to some of the other guys I mentioned. Decide who you like and go w/ that.

Kinda depends really. If your state requires registration as most do then you need a frame w/ paperwork. Those are generally a little more expensive - say $400 or so. If you shop around you can usually get em for cheaper than that though. Usually the $200 frames are w/out titles - doesn't always mean they're stolen since new frames from the factory come w/out VIN's. There's a thread going on right now that says everything you gotta do to get a new VIN and it sounds like a major PITA. You can get a frame shipped to you for about $100 from anywhere in the lower 48 via Greyhound.

Means you shouldn't wear that buttplug around other people.

My best guess would be to go to the previous page of this thread and click new age's link. Then somewhere on that page is their phone number or you might have to click another link to get to the actual number. Usually its a link that says "contact us" or similar. Might also find an email there too.

Nice post motoboy