You just need to specify big bore domes when you order. Lots of folks make em: Noss, pro design, wicked, trinity, modquad. The benefit is better cooling, better coolant flow, and the ability to change domes to alter your compression.
They got the Imperial Emperor to take over until they can clone the old pope. I saw the cloning facility myself. Heard of St. Peter's? Well its just around the corner to the right and down the stairs.
NotSafeFWD hit the the true nature of my annoyance w/ his advice for Chase. I'm all for people dabbling in illegal drugs. Hell I've been there myself. I just crack up when I see people base their whole exsistance on the fact that they smoke bud. Dude if you like to smoke, then go for it. But why wax on about it like it somehow makes you exceptional. Doing that just shows how little you have going on in your life.
On a shee tire spin is your friend. 4 strokes have that low end torque to pull lots of paddles, shees don't. You'll get more traction off the line w/ higher #'s of paddles (assuming you're geared so you don't bog), but unless the drag is under 100ft ur gonna be hurting for speed. Stock stroke/cylinder/bore shees run best on 8 paddle haulers. When you start going w/ cubs or a stroker you can consider 9's or even 10's. Really aggressive drag ports can just barely pull 9's w/out hurting their top end speed.
Ya you'll need to change the gearing as the other 2 guys posted. I see they said to go up and down in the rear. The correct action would be to ADD 3 teeth to the rear or drop 1 tooth on the front. But I assume you're asking what the performance difference would be. Well, a taller tire will elongate more at speed. Lets just say that a 20" tire elongates 2" at top speed - thereby giving you the speed capability of a 22" tire (higher final ratio). So then we'll say that a 22" tire elongates 3" because its got more sidewall and all that. So that gives you the speed capability of a 25" tire. I'm just throwing some numbers out there. I have no idea exactly how many inches the tires will elongate.
On the downside, bigger tires are going to roll more when you corner. Also they're going to raise your center of gravity. Both these items will make your bike handle worse than on 20's.
BTW...10 paddles is alot. What kinda mods you running to pull that many paddles?
I've always felt the top 3 were
Axis
TCS
PEP
in that order. Several others have agreed with me on that one. IMO elka's specialty isn't in suspension, its in marketing. Give out a bunch of free sets to key people, slap fancy names like "elite" and "dune edition", add a few bells and whistles that don't really make it perform any better and you've got yourself a winning combination.
Yup, drilling out the center works wonders. I'd also agree that cutting off the bolt head would be a good route. That way you'd have a little more room to work and you can beat on it from both ends if needed.
Um...bye?
I actually just read that whole drunk thread trying to figure this one out. Yup, Red's a tard, Chase is a complete loser, and The Group is inbetween em making like a circus seal.
Ok so according to Blaine: One of the head dudes over at Axis did leave, and the company was purchased 4 years ago by Penske. However, they're still putting out probably the best shock in the ATV industry.
Justin - Blaine recommended talking w/ Joe from www.atvsuspensiontech.com
He's the owner of the site and the biggest distributor of TCS. He also deals w/ Axis
Blaine said he never had a problem but he changed his oil every season. Course he had the tooling as well as the nitrogen available for him to do that. Check w/ Joe about the rebuild and he might have a better rate. He says all high-end shocks should be maintained once/year because carbon builds up in the oil and significantly degrades performance.
I gotta talk to Blaine anyway. I'll ask him about the longevity on his rear TCS. I agree that rebuilding every 6 months is B.S. I can see doing that to maintain peak shock performance, but having a useless shock every 6 months is crazy!
Unfortunately it ain't. You my friend have a frozen bolt. I beat the hell out of mine when it happened to me. Then I tried some heat, finally I drilled out the center and got a bigger hammer. That did the trick.
Nope. Don't like Elkas. Justin I'm talking about the rear shock only right now. Fronts I'm def. going w/ TCS. Elka rear is $100 more than the Axis.
Lobo, good to know about Axis. I'll check into it and see what I find.
I'm running a single 35 on my +4 at around 200 main, 62 pilot. Don't remember the exact jets but that's about right. You should be able to keep more top end w/ a single 38 vs 35.