Wallrat

The amount of smoke coming out of the pipes isn't really a good indication of how good your jetting is. Mine smokes alot sometimes, and other times, not so much. You gotta do a plug chop to determine if you're jetted right.

I got 3 months free XM when I bought my new truck. I was so impressed that I didn't even wait until the 3 months was up before I upgraded my stereo to a SIRIUS compatable head unit. IMO, XM wasn't even worth keeping for free.

I could see 75+ HP if its a drag port, but more than likely you're gonna be closer to 60-65ish tops. Either way, you shouldn't have any problem against anything but highly modified yfz's in a drag unless its a really short run on loose terrain.

You'd be fine.

Holy crap! Normally I'm against banning people but this dude seriously deserves it! I went through his posts, pretty much the last 100 or so he's either talking shit about racing people (come out to LS, Bring it to LS! etc etc) or he's being a condescending prick. Guys only got 180+ posts...I'd definately have to classify him as a "member" alright.

Personally I think the Clarke looks better than the IMS.

yup!

Amen Meat! The ol' "I'll show em how smart I am by writing something they can't understand" routine. As it turns out, I do understand, as do many of us, and we don't even need a dictionary. So quit with the flowery banter attempting to belittle us commonfolk. Look around you man. Its an internet forum. There was no test to get in, no entrance fee, and there's no penalty for leaving. If this place bothers you so much because of all the "9 year olds" that hang out here, then move on.

Look what came in the mail today! Got both for $192 shipped to my door! Brand new, I just bolted up a new sprocket before snapping the pic.

Boost bottle would be another.

Never done it myself but I'd just bolt the tank in place, then put the plastics on over it. Wherever they overlap lay down some masking tape. Then all u gotta do is take off the plastics and hit it w/ the jigsaw.

No ur not right. Basically ur altering how early the spark is generated before heading to the plugs. Too much and you risk detonation, so you need to run race gas if you go too far. The only benefit race gas gives you is the ability to run higher timing and more compression. Too much compression and ur also gonna risk detonation because pressure=temperature. I dunno that I'd recommend anything smaller than 20cc domes without getting ur crank trued and welded.

Really there's alot you can do before you get into trouble. First replace the crank. You could get the stock one trued and welded but if ur building something fast ur gonna need a stroker. Get some cubs and some porting for those. Grab a new head and bump up the compression. Advance the timing and change out the pipes/carbs and you'll have a fast bike. Compression is probably the hardest on the engine longevity. Even so, you can raise it quite a bit w/out any worries. Also really aggressive port work can lead to reliability issues. Other than that...you shouldn't have any problems.

You could easily pull off a +4. It'll be a little snappy and u definately won't be able to let out 100% off the start line, but on the otherhand it'll still dune fairly well. I would say go +4 if your a duner that likes to drag, or +6 if your a dragger that likes to dune.

13/41 or 14/44 for sand. -Wait, what diameter are your rear wheels?

SEARCH!

Advance the timing, get a coolhead, run race gas. Do that and you'll get 20x more gain than you would with just a kwik shift.

Seems like most roundhouses have an ID of around 3.435" and an OD of 3.75.

Just weld over the Vin #, then grind and polish it smooth. Take ur 87 VIN and a stamp kit and transfer the vin to the new frame.

I've seen 400 frames on exriders for $200. I put a listing in their wanted section for a frame with a damaged rear end. Maybe I'll find somebody that tore a subframe mount or something and get a frame for less than $100.

I own a yfz and a banshee. I've ridden a few TRX's. I've ridden quite a few of the aftermarket banshee shocks out there. YFZ shocks are better than stock banshee shocks, but they still blow. TRX shocks are pretty similar to YFZ shocks Old style Works are slightly better than stock YFZ/TRX shocks, but are still pretty harsh TCS is the best bang for the buck when it comes to front suspension TCS rear is okay, but not great Axis is cherry, period! Elkas are good shocks, but I have yet to try one that really impressed me like TCS or Axis For the price conscious looking for a really sweet setup, I'd recommend TCS up front and something else in the rear. You could save urself some bucks by going with a TCS rear shock rebuild in the rear, but its not nearly as nice. Diesel, even if you buy a new 450 ur still gonna get the shit beat out of you on their stock suspension - ur better off spending the money on arms, swingarm, axle and shocks for your shee. With good suspension, you'll be looking at ur front tires to see if they're even on the ground (its that smooth)!

billet impeller temp gauge on coolant hose aftermarket radiator and in the non-cooling longevity mods: longrod crank case saver skidplates gusset frame full hinson clutch roundhouse swingarm

Yeah no worries...I loctite everything that hasn't already fallen off.

-1 tooth in the front equals +3 on the rear. Its really up to you whether you want to run a 13 or a 43. I guess I could see there point in having more surface in contact w/ the chain on really high HP bikes, but you should be able to run that 13 no problem. Half the banshees at glamis are running a 13 up front w/out any problems. Maybe their real reason is that rear sprockets are more $$$

Not exactly sure what you're asking here... When asking for a comparison its generally a good idea to cite the items you want compared.