Wallrat

Back-up plan: Ebay Buy me that frame and I'll let you ride the finished product a couple times!

Oooooo.... Just so happens I know a once-shee owner turned 400ex turd that some of you may remember. Think he'd notice if his ex was missing a frame?

Got myself a brand new LSR for $117 shipped! Whoop whoop! Thanks to everyone who replied.

Whoever said anything about the stripper and hitman being 2 different people?

I agree that suspension is a way better mod than anything he could do to the engine, but for $500-$600 you aren't gonna really do much suspension-wise. At most he could run some yfz fronts, which IMO is still a shitty setup. Plus its an 87 so he can't just buy some ebay arms. You could convert it to a-arms for prolly 2-300, either by buying a frame and selling your j-arm one or doing a conversion. Wouldn't do much for you now but later on if you wanted to get some new arms then at least that part of it would be out of the way.

If I do it I'll be snapping pics like crazy. But yeah...its a long way off at this point-unless I get a 250r frame dropped in my lap.

T5's are pretty similar to fattys, although they do offer a bit more on top and look a hell of alot better. Woods/drag is about the biggest difference in riding types you can find so you want a good all-around pipe. T5's would be a good choice but you could always just use your fattys for awhile and see how you like it.

I wouldn't trust "just putting it on." Pull off the bowl and see what jets are in there. Might also wanna check the needle while ur at it. Post up your findings and we can help ya more.

It really depends, but $300 is about average. Turn-around time can be anywhere from one to several weeks, depending on how busy the builder is.

The Clarke one looks more like the stock plastics than the IMS (still have to cut tho):

Haha...what a tool. Somebody should tell this guy that he doesn't HAVE to come to the HQ. Loco and I bump heads all the time, but I have yet to send some retarded PM where it sounds like I just discovered what a dictionary is. Actually I sent him a stripper and a hit man...

I'm sure both are good but more HQ people seem to rum pwk's. So from a knowledge aspect, you'd be better off with those since there's more people that know all about em.

Did you say your intakes are polished? Grab some sandpaper and scuff those back up. Exhausts are supposed to be polished, intakes should be rough to help keep the mixture mixed and not get fuel condensation on the walls.

I'll have an extra j-arm frame here in the next couple weeks so I've been thinking about actually doing this mod. Dunno, kinda depends on what I'd have to pay for a 250r frame. On one hand it'd be f'n sweet! On the other hand all the money I've been dumping into my shee suspension would be wasted. Course there's always the motor swap option! 95% of the welding I do is stick. Personally I think appearance-wise it falls somewhere between ugly-ass MIG and woohoo TIG. Considering the welds on the stock frame already look like turd bombs, I don't think you could recommend one method vs. another based on appearance alone. Just use whatever method you're most comfortable with.

My understanding of the RPM is that the splines aren't steal, just the surface ring is. The idea being that if the swingarm bearings go, they'll take out the replaceable seal instead of the whole hub. For you guys with the LSR recommending the RPM, what's the complaint with the LSR?

Depending on how its bent where it hits you might be able to just cut a little off the hose to stretch it out and clear the pipe.

Ditch the boost bottle.

For what kind of riding? What kind of port?

Banshee lights are on a completely seperate circuit from the ignition. So yes you can take them off and not do any damage - as long as you remember to tape the wires up. Even if you don't, the most that'll happen is you'll short the lighting side of the coil or the voltage regulator (bike will still run).

You can stick weld the frame.

Once again...my advice is that there's alot of other go-fast parts that you could do that will give you a hell of alot more advantage in a race. You've got pipes and reeds for christ's sake! If you had every go-fast part available and you were looking for that extra edge then yes, I'd say the kwik shift is a good purchase. But right now? You'd be better off w/ a timing plate, mill the head, air filter, etc...

Yeah Red's are the heaviest, blacks are the medium, and blues are the thin and light ones. I've been running blues on my sand tires since I got my shee and haven't bent one yet. I like to jump alot and on stock suspension. At 220lbs, I've exhausted the shocks to the point of hitting the frame more than once. My view has always been, if ur gonna land hard enough to bend something, would you rather it be a $40 wheel or a $400 axle? Anyway man its cool, I just felt like busting ur balls a little cuz I'm secretly jealous.

I think k and k has some LT rear stuff for the shee.

Frame is too wide on the front end. Look at any of the new sport quads and you'll notice how narrow their frames are up front.

Dude loco...you'll hit that by the end of the day!