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camatv

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Everything posted by camatv

  1. just email them to me HA [email protected].. the ole hass dont like to drill for oil
  2. post pics of the motors. !!!!! 421stocker are capable of around 55ftlbs of tq and 85ish+ hp with a non bridged exhaust and std intake. but i'm curious. the motor would probably need to be pretty big to necesitate r intakes. cubs have proven that. the bridged exhaust is kinda known to crack because of the thinness of the bridge. the top can be wide enough to not hurt the transfers. OR just do a triple port sleeve? might be easier if the sleeve';s are being built. i did a triple port alluminum sleeve motor YEARS ago but never really got it finished the triples were kinda setup before the sleeve was pressed in. also triple was cut into the sleeve and then matched after it was all done the tunnels ended up being pretty small tho.
  3. i have been ofering to cover the shipping.. i'll PM ya
  4. what the hell was that?? i rode a bike woth some 8 paddle extremes and very similar mods to yours on a 9 inch wheel the guy picked up an extra set of OEM wheels and had them powder'd black and then put on the skat's and a set of front sand str style double rib tires it looked sweet and those 9 inch wheels were the blend of the 10s' and the 8's limited sidewal flex but not so stiff they wouldnt hook up screw V paddles people that prefer v's either cannot ride or have stock front tires on their bike. and a straight paddle on stock front means major front end push in corners and everywhere else.. straights are the way to go.. sand star's are an excellent v paddle tho for budget rider they hook more like a straight paddle but still turn ( and spin out) like v's
  5. wonder what the insurance would be on 9 banshee's... and a boat and a golf cart and an atc70
  6. redneck hammer works best
  7. i think its cool.. what about the serval???? seems there isnt a pipe that really suited for it except the shear twins and the cpi's, other drag pipes.. what about a high flow low temp 2-1? i'm really interested in that one.. ok now on the other hand a same firing banshee motor !!!! i have been thinking of those in my head for along time didnt know what to expect what would happen i felt the sucker would probably just shake itself to death. wasnt sure if it would have more botom end and then just not rev as easily as the 180 firing now. ? whats up with that?!?!!?
  8. where is pics of the shear set up?? i keep hearing about it i'd love to see it it sounds really neat. ( i hear it runs longer than 10 minutes also)
  9. the long ones like to fall off
  10. so nobody wants nice pipes huh.. these things beat up have sold for 180 bucks whats the deal
  11. pm sent
  12. i'll take a set of 34's at 100 bucks
  13. camatv

    parts needed

    what kind of reeds you looking for? i have a set of LRD's? pipes
  14. i have roll design chrome a-arms, dominator axle, +4 LSR show chrome swingarm. 1200
  15. seriously just call NOSS tell him your on hq and you get a lil discount
  16. camatv

    cylinders

    i have a set of trail ported, 65mm fresh bore new pistons and stock head or milled and recut head for 550 + shipp
  17. i would ONLY use mellinum for replating they plate all the cheeta's and are great with stock cylinder alluminum sleeve motors
  18. that avi needs to forget her shirt
  19. where's all this midget porn i keep hearing of?

    1. T-rex

      T-rex

      Why does that GOAT have a smile on its face???

    2. Banshee xXx

      Banshee xXx

      under your banshee seat.

  20. its overwelming but at the same time really cool! i would still really like to do say a 72mm- 78mm bore 110 rod stock stroke PV cheeta. i think it would rev hard as hell
  21. if your this lost you might want to just take it to a shop. just make sure the shop KNOWS yfz's and will stand behind their work and make sure you ask them specifically about that.... 4 strokes are kinda tricky to get jetted just right they are more finiky than a 2 stroke. the carb supplies fuel based on the engines PULL on the carb so sometimes to get the right fuel air you need to lean it down.. ( on bigger builds) because the carb is getting much stronger pull through the carb and the carb is pressured up more.. 4 stroke carbs also need to atomize much better due to the ports curves and such and that curve likes to switchthe fuel back to non atomized. and in al reality you will end up between a 160-178 main, and anywhere from a 42-52 pilot it just takes time. i found that on one i did the 170/50 quick shot 3 ( excellent!) worked killer and also doing the pumper link or mod or o-ring worked killer as well. it seemed to me with the quick shot and adjustable leek jet it liked a much bigger slow jet. they all seem to jet a lil differnt and you will really need to know what feels right and or check plugs to get it really close a dyno with a "sniffer" is almost ideal but most bikes i have seen come off the dyno are lean because of the load, airflow, time and hp gaisn that most dyno tunners are looking for. i k now the quick shot 3 seems exspensive ( 100 bucks) but its a very nice addition to tuning and will take the BOOGOGOGOGG out of it once you get it right and as soon as you stab the throttle it jumps into a wheelie instead of BOGOGOGOGO you will be very happy
  22. go to the hardware store and buy 2 rubber plumbing connectors or maybe even one and cut it in half measure the throat of the carb. then drop the synch in it. your just setting idle and just off idle cable adjustments with it. NOT really anyting over that. there are also reducers you can use if it still dosnet seem to work well. i was able to synch lectrons with it i never really worried about getting an air tight seal they will read what ever is going throgh them if you seem to place the tool in the same spot in both carbs they seem to work well.
  23. if you have the $$$$ buy a PV cheeta. if your on a budget get a serv. the serv will work with all stock componets the like drag pipes the best. they will need custom domes i believe to work well. i'm not sure if anyone has done a straight bolt on stocker yet? if your bottom end is completely stock you will need to do a LOT of work to it to make the motors last. billet basket, tz bearing, welded crank better clutch, pressure plate bearing pusher and transmission mods. doing all this at the same time will put a big smile on your face when you ride it. dont just shoot for power shoot for reliablilty. fixing comon problems BEFORE they cause problems seems to becoming a lost art?
  24. 14 paddle ripper 25-12-10 staggerd should do it
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