2004LEBanshee

You need to be around 300 to 330 ish. 200 is stock you will blow it.

May be normal but here goes. Bike starts 1st kick with choke when cold with no need for the throttle pressed. When i get the bike nice and hot after riding a bit i need to press the throttle abit to get it to start as i kick. Usually this time i do not have the chokes pulled. Is this typical for others? Bike is 10 cub with pwk 39. 168 55.Revs clean. Just wondering if others experiance this.

I run magnum basket and mattoon back plate and bushings. Seems to be the best of both put together imo.

Just curious what would be the overall difference in motor rotating weight if someone ran a steel basket but switched over to a lightened flywheel. Would that counter the basket weight or not enough?

Its a joke. But seriously i would do all four sides. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

If one k&n lid makes it run better id look at cutting the bottom of the airbox off and installing another lid on the bottom. Should add a few more ponies. Enjoy the new mod.

Always a few who have to litter. Trash shit and bring stolen shit.

Boom.

Redline sells a kicker gear with a new bushing for like 90. About the only one i know of who sells it that way. Id go that route and avoid the needle bushing. Other option is to buy a used stock basket and press it out and swapem

Might be toast 1/4 inch seems like a lot.

I would. + 4 timing bump is a cheap mod you can feel. You could just get grinding paste at any autozone advanced ect. You could also just grind the holes on a stoc plate 4 mm and turn the plate to get the +4. Free mod and works.

Yes lap it with valve gringing compound. Impact it on and use blue locktite on nut. Ugly

Had a stock cylinder 4 mill. 4 mill serval ect with both cpi and shearers.all from a top builder on here. Youll want shearers over the cpis. Trade the t5s then sell on here for shearers. Imo

Stockish motor t5.

Just wondering. Sometimes these quads experience crank case pressure that blows oil out the breather. For that to happen wouldnt the crank seal have to be bad and the air and fuel from the cylinder push into the case? How can sime times the oil go in the cylinder and sometimes it goes towards the cases?

Good to hear.

Every seal on the motor and side case. There is no other seal you need. There all labeled. Great kit.

There is numerous well liked and well tested oils. Id just stick with one of them.

Keep filters clean. Always mix gas correctly. Keep jetting a little rich. Change the case oil. A modded banshee is still reliable. But they are only as reliable as the owners. Too many are owned by idiots.

I had same issues years ago. I took the carb apart and used fine steel wool and smoothed it out. Slide and body. Never had a prob again. You dont need the grey stuff.

Always had great luck with a k&s seal kit. Sponsors and ebay sell them. There a little more then tusk though. About $40 for every seal in the engine. Worth it

Get a used stocker. Thw cheaper aftermarket ones advance your timiming a bit to gain the extra power they claim. However if you call them and ask how much they advance the give you a couple degree range. The hell with that.

There is either a spacer plate or cut domes. If there is cutdomes the piston will stick out past the deck of the cylinders. Easy to see.

Also your going to want a stock crank welded with the timing and compression. Some will live some wollnt.

20 is pushing race gas on most stock motors. 10 psi for evervy cc. Roughly.