2004LEBanshee

Magnum with mattoon cushions ans back plate

I have a magnum basket with mattoon back plate and mattoon cushions. 7 plater fast clutch fibers and steels. Mattoon lockup with 6 tusk springs and about 4 washers on each finger. Might be over kill. Did not weigh them

Yea no diff. You could run real light springs and heavier weights and this would allow it to slip a tad at low rpms and not stall or bog. If done right.would be better the a stock setup

None for me its actually easier then my 4 mill serval. Didnt have a lockup for that but ran heavy fast springs

I run all tusk springs with some weight on the fingers. Also an easy pull lever. The pull is pretty light.

I have the mattoon. No complaints. Never had a direct drive though.

I power. Shift a 10 mill cub with a lockup all day. Not sure where the lockups dont shift or you cant pull the lever started either. My bike feels exactly like a stock bike at the clutch lever at all rpms and gears. Seems perfect for a mx bike. There is no difference in feel or rideability.

I run a wrc promod with a lockup on a ten cub and it shifts better then stock.

Have a promod from him and its great. After 3 weeks of having my core and no refund. I had to start calling him. He finally called me back we had words and sent me my money. Would never deal with him again. Would buy one of his trannys from someone else.

Sent

So go to 6 or 5. I dont think im far off. Im right where others have dynoes this motor with this setup.

Oem cdi, stator,flywheel. Nology coil.

Not sure if i explained this right. I did bump it to +7 and it did pull harder then +5.

Dam if i cant load it up on the road where can i. Ot sure as hell dont hook on the trails or hills.

Well i dont think my jetting is spot on yet. Maybe i better go down to +6 to be safe. What jetting and setup you running. Im 55 168 on 39s with shearers and i have a delay before i hit the powerband when i stab the trottle on the road. When it hits it hits hard but it deffently has a pause. Is this jetting or just a cub?

I have a 10 cub ported by redline. .053 squish 171 compression on 110 race gas. Cam was telling me i could try it at +7 and take it for a spin to see how it reacts. At +5 now and it lacks a little. I did it up my street only to 3rd gear 3 times and noticed that it did pull harder. In fact it just blows the tires off. My question is can a motor have too much timing causing detonation and run better then a lower timing with out detnation? I dont hear any pinging and i just checked the plugs and dont see any metal flakes on them. Not looking to pop this motor. Anything else i can look for just to be safe. Thanks.

Thanks.

The edges of the flywheel key groove are just rounded a bit. I think ill take a file to them and lap it on good. Thanks

Long story short i had a flywheel on a newly built engine. After a quick test run the flywheel came loose and mangled up the woodruff key. I must have not tightened it properly. As a result the side walls on the flywheel where the key fits are a little rounded. Im in kind of a bind now and need to use this flywheel to ride tomorrow. Do you think it will be ok to use. I will lap it and install a new key. I will also use an impact and locktite. Ive been told the key does nothing but line up the flywheel for installation. If this is the case i dont see how the worn groove will hurt its ability to stay in place. What do you think? Run it? Should i put locktite or something in the keyway?

Let me know if you got one.

after any port or motor work imo. I had bolt ons that grooved the hell out of a stocker.

They say 2 ply tread and 2 ply sidewall on the tire.

I know mine balloned real bad at high speed

Have ambush and cut the 2 ply sidewall first day at hatefield mccoy. I think only the tread part is 4 ply. Lite tire with decent traction but will cut. This was a 4 mill ported serval.

Very impressive stuff.