Nighty

Here are 2 mp3 files from my toomey t5's This is what i hear while riding http://nighty.servebeer.com/Fotos/quads/Sounds/ The "0-75mph" file is the sound trough the gears. The "shifts" file is a piece out of the "0-75mph" file where i shift like 4 times in 2 seconds. Enjoy.

I am reading bens jetting faq at the moment. GREAT STUFF! Since a few weeks my banshee lost a few mph. I didnt care much at first since top speed is not what i ride alot. but while doing a drag with my cousin i felt/noticed a powerloss in the high revs. After trying a bit i found out that it will rev higher but it just wont deliver power. Since i also installed a timing plate set at 4 degrees advanced, I want to rule out first that this can be caused by to much timing advantage. The spark plugs look fine but i will try with fresh plugs to make sure. Any chance this is caused by the timing? or will this definatly be a lean jetting issue. (which is likely since temp has dropped 20 deg Celcius) Bike runs great in all the other rev ranges. no bogging no hesitation just giving up in the high revs. Also compression was great 3 weeks ago 125 psi both sides. Thanks for any comment!

Pictures would be great, I have about the same setup as wickedbanshee, and i rather keep the banshee in 1 piece thanks!

I measured 140 psi on both cilinders, my altitude is ->0<- sea level. +4 timing running octane 93

Here in the Netherlands octane 98 comes straight out of the fuel hose at all the fuel stations. i am running +4 or +5 with 98. I am going to replace my sparkplugs tonight. Just curious: Is there a way to see my engine is doing fine with the +4? Can i read it from the spark plugs? Thanks.

The word here in Europe is that ALL 2 strokes will be FORBIDDEN in 2005. No more new 2strokes, only second hand 2 strokes. Guess i will have to move to us soon and haul glamis with some of you guys If the 2 strokes go i will definatly stop quadting.

I was amazed about the 180 main yet. My banshee still has the stock carberators but i am running 2x 280 main jets!

Keeps us informed eehsnab2. I have the boyessen reeds and those improved my thottle response.

wtf! I LIVE in rotterdam! I WORK in Rotterdam and I know the erasmus University! hmm

lol well i now have one of those diode bridges hooked up. the ac is now dc. my normal lights are hooked up before the diodebride so the normal banshee lights only light up when the engine is running. all the other stuff (blinking crap honky thing, city lights) are behind the diodebridge.. but the battery will probably help out the diodebridge. since i heared a diodebridge needs to be cooled if great currents are flowing. oh and the stock banshee voltage regulator also rectifies the max voltage to about 14.8 volts so its all great!!!

Indeed Holeshotkid a briljant explanation! Sorry for the little misunderstanding Boonman. Well now we got this sorted i say: BEERTIME! And again: thanks for clearing this up.

Great info screaming banshee! this is what i was looking for! this means i am currently running +5 for my trial riding. will 98 octane fuel prevent knocking ( havent heared it yet) and also the melting? Manny thanks!

The banshee is fine again. but holeshotkid said. And thats what i am going to try out. I'm just wondering WHY the spark plug caps can be switched. In boonmans theory: switching the caps would make the banshee misfire and thus it wont start.

Thanks guys, I'm gonna try holeshotkid's idea. firing at the same time hmm now thats a possibility.

I recently had some ignition problems, while trying to solve the problem, I switched the spark plug caps. But my shee just fired up again and drove like nothing changed. I tried to figure this out but i am stuck. What im thinking: In the normal positions the left sparkcap will fire when the cilinder is almost up. at that point the right cilinder is almost down so the right sparkcap is ofcourse NOT firing. Now i turn the spark caps around so left becomes right and right becomes left. Simply meaning the left cilinder is completly up and should receive a spark but that spark now goes to the right cilinder which is completely down! simply said... it cant start,run or ride. But it does! Any explanations? Just curious.

My rickystator stator and plate (adjustable) came in last week. I am not sure how to check the timing. Sure there are numbers on the plate but i dont know what to look at. Should there be an arrow on my crankcase cover? I think i advanced my timing 5 degrees and YES my trottle response is awesome. no more bogging just right into the TOOMEY REVS! Any pics/idea's of what to look at? To make sure or check what the timing advantage is set at?

Wow! fast reply! So the service manual is wrong! Thanks, I'll get one right away from the local store.

Lo all, I am working on a street legal banshee, For my battery to charge i will need dc power so i took my multimeter thingy and started to test voltages, but no mather what i try i wont get any readings. Even if i try directly from my lights connectors i wont get DC power! The banshee service manual says i should try dc 20v and should get a value of around 11.8-14,5 volts I used 2 digital multimeters, one of these also has an AC option and when i try that i DO get a reading of 11,8 to 14,5 volts. IF my banshee is delivering AC power instead of DC power, howcome my lights are burning? Any idea's?

Yeah you guys are both right. but in your ignition control box (CDI thingy) is a chip with a timing curve. for example: (totally random) with 1500 rpm the cdi will retard timing 5 degrees 2500 rpm advance 5 degrees 4500 rpm advance 10 degrees 5000 rpm retarding 5 degrees every 2000 rpm i had a graph of this "curve" once.. ill see if i can find it. now if you advance your timing say with 4 degrees the timing curve will not be alltered but: 1500 rpm will be 1 degree retard 2500 rpm 9 degrees advanced. and so on. this should be it.. i think