Nighty

Hey all, I mounted yfz450 brake calipers on the banshee, and made some pics for a small howto. The mod is easy to do, and the brake performance is much better compared to the stock single piston caliper. Single piston sucks Here goes: Gather your needed parts -dot4 brake fluid -yfz450 brake calipers, can be obtained for a fair price check ebay! -optional, the yfz450 master brake cylinder + lever. -a bike to work on. -a tiny hose to help you bleed the brakes. -doggy for mental support. -Bike to work on -needed parts -The reïnforcements Start by removing both front wheels. -First wheel removed Then remove the old brake calipers by removing the 2 bolts holding it and the brake fluid line. Some brake fluid may drip out of the hose, !be carefull! i hear its agressive stuff. When removing the old caliper you might have to bend the metal dust cover a little outward. Or dont be lazy and try to remove it, its held down with just 1 bolt as far as i know. -1ste caliper removed -The bend dust cover to allow removal. Since the yfz450 brake calipers are wider you need to modify the metal dust cover to fit the calipers. Like so: -bottem piece and -Top piece I took of a bit too much, this job can be done tighter, if you take the time to remove the metal dust cover and line out exactly where to cut. Here's the finished cover: -ready for new caliper. now you can install the yfz450 brake caliper, it should just slide on, the bolt patern matches. -installed caliper. With the caliper installed you can see the brake pads fit the brake disk allright. The complete width of the brake pads is perfectly used. However the complete width of the brake disk is not used, (angle of caliper could be better) In the picture you can see the brake pads are completly on the disk. The stock caliper/pads combination used a bit more surface area on the lower parts of the brake disk. -brakepad on disk. Now comes the crappy part. bleeding your brakes properly.I hear there are special brake bleed devices availeble which can help you get the air out of the system. i dont have that This job is best done with two people. Make sure the brake reservoir on your handle bar has plenty of oil and keep an eye on the reservoir during the brake bleeding. attach a shine trough hose on one of the brake calipers, the calipers have a special valve. The shine trough helps you see the oil and air come out. First stage: have someone to use the brake lever. have someone to open and close the bleed valve. -open bleed valve -squize the brake lever and hold it down. -close the bleed valve -release brake lever -repeat until you see oil comming into your shine trough hose. With oil in your tube its now no longer possible to suck in air trough the bleed valve when releasing the brake lever so now: -open the bleed valve -squize the brake lever You will see the oil level in the tube rize and possible some air bubbels comming up trough the hose. -slowly release the brake lever oil level will drop some -repeat until no more air comes out. -close valve Do same for your other brake caliper. -brake bleeding. after you have done this for both sides, you should have a firm brake pressure when using the front brake lever. You should never be able to squize the lever all up to the handlebar. You.. and i should checkout a clymer or other repair manual since that might have some great brake bleeding tips aswell. Take your bike for a spin and make sure your brakes function! you should now have a much better front brake control, beeing able to stop the front wheels with much less effort. The finished product. I did not replace my stock master cylinder. Maybe somebody here can tell me if the 450 master brake cilinder has more capacity then a stock 2006 banshee one? On my old 2000 banshee i did the same modification and changing the master brake cilinder was an improvement over the stock one. Feedback welcome and feel free to use this stuff to write a better howto. Regards, Ton

ah.. i'll pick a number then in case it falls trough again.

So then she really is unknown ! i better have that written on the wedding cake then.

for trails i would say a set of fmf gnarly/fatties. the toomey t5's are more a dune pipe in my list. (fairly mid/high end pipe) it really depends on what you want to do with your banshee. For example on my roadlegal banshee i currently have Rocket Pipes. High end pipe for high speeds. On my play bike i had toomey t5's awesome sound.. really unmatched in my oppinion. but for mx conditions you might consider paul turner mids.. or even a dynoport 2 into 1 exhaust. dude really.. if your on a banshee.. its just a mather of making up your mind.. everything is for sale. /edit: dang i type too slow... dmc beat me

Havent received a vid yet. if your having trouble mailing me the file we could try msn file transfer or whatever else you like. Or use one of the links feedmelies posted.

Hey Tit. Another year added! Feel the "SMARTies" sinking in already? last year you sold your banshee.. that wasnt very smart now was it Love the sig Have a great time and newyears there James Regards from the flying dutchman

dang! now thats a huge turbo. compared to the engine that is. If you need a place to host your video mail it to me: Kleito01@gmail.com i can get it on the internet so you can place a link here.

Hey Fellow hq-ers I havent been around for some time, but in time of need one always goes back to their roots who knows the name of this girl: thanks all! our wedding is in 5 days and she needs to be informed. :beer:

-->> CLICK <<-- some nice helmet cam footage. in the end he slams into the raptor. is it one of our bansheehq guys?

I had the same on my old 99 banshee. It didnt have the tors caps anymore and water leaked into the carb tops. One of the carb tops was stripped out and the other carb didnt have the rubber protection caps over the trothle cables anymore. The water caused the slide to stick. checkout the carb tops, maybe those are just not tight.

I think those are the same tires i am running. If they are those are innova road racers. Really hard compound, i abused those badly and they just wont wear out. i do have a bit of unbalance in one of the tires. on the year: there should be a sticker right under the seat. it should be a 4 char number like this: example: (5FKM) I dont know the number for 2005 models. but i'm sure we can come up with something. enjoy!

:baseball_wibble: its true! we suck!

Just before the race started it rained like you've never seen before. Lots of bikes had electrical failures during the race. some 4 strokes seized up. Eichner had a wet ignition aswell so i've heared. He got it replaced in record time. Some belgian guys won on a 450.

I think VLS will be racing these machines: VLS

This year a VLS quad will be on the podium.

Please DONOT! confuse this "night" guy with me.."Nighty" on topic: when i was over @ tithead's his grandpa filled an old diesel can with petrol and my banshee fouled 2 plugs just on the old remains of diesel in the can.

Thanks Tithead and blackandyellowshee. I noticed earlier but didnt wanna replay. Yeah its way to heavy indeed. but you got to give those guys some credit. it must have been alot of work! and imo this thing will turn some heads while cruising around in it!

I co-worker came up with this link today: STI-ATV <-- link A very nice job, looks like alot of work to me and i would buy it for the sound alone! On the grass it doesnt seem to handle so good. Not to mention the enormous turn radius. Check it out!

And how did the dyno run go? any numbers or graphs to show?

The gap was out of spec but didnt fix my problem. after i adjusted the pickup coil gap and rotated the flywheel i noticed a difference in the pickup coil gap. So i grabbed my tools and it turned out the flywheel wasnt seated correctly. took the flywheel off and checked the flywheel key. minor damage to the key and also minor damage to the flywheel itself. slammed it back on tightend it up good by hand this time holding the flywheel with a fuel/oil filter tool. Took it out for a ride .. ran like a champ.. 3 miles from home.. and the sound of a major piston failure.. i figured oh crap.. here we go again.. flywheel must have come off. So i pushed the bike back home, had the bike appart in record time and yes.. flywheel came off again. brought out the power tools.. pneumatic stuff and a dap of lock tite no damage to stator or flywheel.. key is fine aswell. used the air tool on the flywheel nut.. and will go for another test ride tomorrow. oh and now the clutch is slipping.. new found power must be too much. Problem solved thanks for looking.

Thanks for the replies. The carb cleaning didnt fix my problem, compression is ok spark is good it MUST be the timing.. monday ill jank the flywheel off to see whatsup with the key. The gap between the pickup coil and flywheel seemed ok didnt measure it could the gap cause backfire? The stator came of a running bike. Maybe i overtightend the flywheel.. *sigh*

update: The flywheel and stator look ok. timing is 4 degrees advanced. no weird things there. the right carb is cleaned and the pilot jet seemed to have a minor tiny wee bit of sand in it. after cleaning the hole looked bigger. working on the left carb at the moment. I wonder....

Hey all, I replaced the stator and flywheel on my banshee and i have the feeling i retarded the timeing 4 degrees instead of advancing 4 degrees. The bike started like normal. i rode around to heat up the bike some and after about a mile it started bogging and would only keep running full trotthle. (and not rev up) So i stopped right away since i dont like the idea of full trotthle and no go. :shoothead: When i tried to start the bike there was a flame shooting out the back of the left exhaust pipe. a few kicks later and the right exhaust shooted a flame aswell. then i decided to shut the full valve and as i reached down to close the valve i burned my fingers without even thouching the pipes.... damned crispy So the pipes where flamingly hott after just a small ride. Well i guessed a clogged jet at first but both sparkplugs look really way to black nowhere near lean. so the fuel must be ok. Would 4 degree retarded timeing cause something like this? I'll pull off the flywheel cover tomorrow to checkout the flywheel aswell, i really cant imagine it came off since i used quite alot of force on the flywheel nut. other things i did on the bike. -replaced oem filter for k&n filter -rejeted carbs (4 richer on the mains) <-- thats why i suspected a clogged jet. -also fiddled with the wires for the turn signals (only a reroute) oh and i disconnected the tors think unit right under the fuel tank to make sure it wasnt screwing me over.. all the other tors crap is still connected. Thanks for any tips and oppinions on the 4 degree retarded timing

:thumb: To The Top.

Looking for a banshee stator and flywheel Shipping will be to europe Payment trough paypal. who can help me out? Thanks.