dirtbike killer

I love it!!!! I went through the same thing when I had my t6 pipes. A friend of mine had fattys, and a 16 tooth front. He beat me all the time. But at sand mountain with a 13 tooth I would beat him. A mid range pipe is going to pull the taller gear better than a top end pipe, they have a broader power band. When I had my two into one intake, I would kill people on the dirt with my tall gears, and people thought my single carb had a lot of top end. When it was just the midrange, bottom end, and a tall gear.

When I put them on mine, I did the grinding on the lower arm. I think this is a much better way to go, because who cares about the stock arms anyway. Then when you go to after market arms you didnt just butcher your shocks.

You do have to compress them a little to get them in the stock a arms, but they work great in after market a arms. They have good travel, and a little sag. They side right in the after market arms. They are way better than the stock shocks, stock arms or not. I liked them a lot better then the stock shocks, in the stock arms, and even better in the after market arms

I thought I would throw my two cent in. I have ran the yzf 450 shocks on my shee for about a year and a half. I'm pretty sure I was the first to post about them with pics, and stuff. I might be wrong, but I dont think so. I haven't any problems with them, and still love them. The bike still rides and jumps like it did when I first put them on. They a great shock for the money.

I see a lot of people that cant get there bike to idle right, so they turn the idle screw all the way in. If your idle screw is all the way in you will have a bad bog. It needs to be at less one full turn out. If you cant get it to idle, adjust your cable.

You cant have the idle screw all the way in. It has to be at less one full turn out, or the bike will have bad bog when you first jump on it. If its closed all the way your closing off the circuit that works with your pilot. If you cant get it to idle at one full turn out, adjust your cable.

Your main isn't doing much when your trying to kick it over. If its hard to start when its cold, but easy to start when its warmed up, your pilot is to small. If starts easy with no choke when its cold, but is hard to start when its warm, then the pilot is to big. Make sure you have no air leaks before you mess with the jets.

Has it always felt slower than a stock banshee? You said this problem just started to happen, how did it feel before this mishap? What pilot, main jet and needle are you running? Where do have the needle set? What mix ratio do you run? Did you do a psi check, what does is read? How old is this motor, was it about time for it to go, or was this premature? What size carb do you run? I just want to get all this info out in the open. It will make it a lot more easy to help.

185 mains seem way to big for a dual 35mm setup. When I ran dual 33mm carbs, I ran 155 main and a 45 pilot. You would be a little higher because your running 35mm carbs, but it dont think that high.

Twice as easy to get leaks.

Any down sides to have a desert tank? I do 35% mx, 55% trail, and 10% dunes.

NO pipes. I have three sets. Nerf bars, flywheel, Plastics, chrome dressup parts for the motor. after market rear axle, cylinders, domes for noss heads.

I love mine and will never go back to a dual, but it does seem to suck more gas. It might be just cause i'm having more fun with it now.

I have some, but I'm trying to sell them.

After the pipes, get some porting. Its cheaper than pipes and will give you the same or more power depending on what you get. When I got my porting it was like I added pipes again.

I'm willing to do some trades also. I'm just going to put the money into the shee anyways.

I would go back down to a 190 main and do a plug chop, so you can see the base of the electrode. That way you will know for sure if its running lean. It should be 2 plus mm from the base. Run it wot in 6th gear for 5 sec., then kill it, and pull the clutch. Make sure you also keep the throttle pinned. The main part of the spark plug you should be looking at is the base of the electrode.

The Pipes are in great shape, chrome looks good. Seals on the pipes are looking pretty bad, but the pipes and silencers are in good shape and look great! 325 shipped!

What gears are you running? I think with a 39 rear and a 14 front you would do better against him, until he gets a pipe. Those things are fast, but a piped banshee geared correctly will beat it. That is stock YFZ450 against a piped shee. But put a pipe on the 450, and the tide changes again. The days of a piped Shee beating a piped anything else are over. But the shee still has more things you can do to it for now. So for not that much, you could open up a can on him, and it would take a lot of dough for him to catch up.

188 main and 48 pilot, on a pwk35mm. Dek needle in the 4th spot, pilot screw at one and a half. I'm at 4500ft elevation..

Paul Turner high Rev, 325 shipped!

Measure the inside, of the outlet side of the carb. The engine side of the carb.

I ran the T'6's with my porting, and it pulled fine though the rpm band. I did get an increase in power after porting with the t6's. But I have three other sets of pipes, and all did better than the t6's after the porting.(Fmf Fatty, Graydon proline, and Paul Turner High Rev)

If its a 33mm that sounds about right, I would run it and check your plugs. If its a 35mm thats to small, I would start with a 195 and go from there. As far as his mods, I didn't really change to much on my carb after my porting.

Might be time for a rebuild. Mine did that when one of the rings went bad. It was hard to start, but would run great when it going. One ring was fine so it still had power, just the other ring was sticking in the piston.