dirtbike killer

Their retooling the plant, so they will but tuff to find for awhile.

I ran the 33mm with every bolt on you can get, and it ran just fine. If you get any kind of porting a bigger carb will be needed. But with no porting the 33 works great!

You will love the single carb, once you get it tuned in. Tons of bottom end with a great top end. My top speed of the shee is faster now that I can pull this taller gear. You loss a little top end hp with the 33mm, but I got it back with the 35mm and new reed cages. Just remeber that the bigger carb that you use, the longer it will take to tune in. So be patient, and dont let the dual guys tell you: I told you so.

ds650 has the best top end. A friend just got one there nice bikes, ride like caddys. Predator would be number two. YFZ450 is the fastest accelerating. We all race down this 1/2 mile road right next to the mx track. The yfz450 and the predator almost always will get the jump. But at the end its the shee's with mods, then the ds650, Predator, zilla, raptor, yfz450, and last but less the couple of stock shees we ride with. One note though, is the yfz450 is the one in front for at less the first 3 to 4 gears.

I think the 40mm will be to big. I have a 35mm on mine and I'm not convinced yet that it was better than the 33mm. The 35mm has ran better numbers on the dyno, but the 33mm was more consistent on the dyno. The 35mm seems to be more moody. I think I just need to do a little more tuning. I would get a 33mm or a 35mm. 33mm if you dont plan on getting any porting, and a 35mm If you do.

T6's will be faster on the stock port. Cpi's will be faster once your ported.

You guys putting the 450's on your stock arms will notice a very nice change in the way the shee rides, and handles the terrain. But if you get the extra dough, I highly suggest you get the 2+1 arms also. You will get even more out of the shocks. If the the shocks made the shee feel 100% better, the arms with add another 100% to that. The arms changed my bike as much as the shocks did. When you put the 450 shocks on your bike you have to compress them a little to get them on, so your not using all of its travel. With the after market arms you will get all of the travel. There is no sag with the stock arms and 450's, but there is with the after market arms. Just something you may want to put on your to get list.

Yeh, I love that little lt250. Jadaven I'm glad to here it runs fine now.

K&N and pipes, 280 mains sounds a little small. I think you should have 320+ on the mains. 27.5+ on the pilot. Then play with the needle. With the cold weather, you might be running pretty lean right now. Your pipes feel like high rev because your running lean.

I hate people that park ten feet away from the track, and then try to get mad about the dust your kicking up. If they dont like it why dont they park where no one rides. Or at less not so close to the track, where you know people are going to be flying around.

If that doesn't work, adjust it with your cable. Make sure you leave the black screw, at less one full turn out. If you dont, you will have a bad off idle bog.

How much for the nerf bars?

Has ktm 520 motor. Its called an Wtec Eraser, Thats all I know.

Your mods are close to what I had on mine. I use to run 320 mains, needle in the 4th spot, and a 30 pilot with your mods, but I'm at 4500ft. I would think you would have to run a larger main then I. At sand mountain I go one up on the mains, to be safe. If your talking about the sand mountain by Reno, maybe I'll see you there.

45% trail, 45% mx, 10% drag

88 and newer is mass air.

I'm talking about how much to lean the tire in at the top. I thought that was camber?. The stupid instructions that came with the arm called it camber. I wwent -4 what do you think?

You have 19lb injectors, which is more than big enough for a k&n on a stock stang. The more you mod it, later you might want to go to 24lb. You can put pipes and all the little stuff on it without changing anything. maybe tires

I was in there last night and got some good info on what degree to run on camber. That site is the sh-t. I got the info right when I needed it, while I was working on the shee.

He's right. Unless you want to lose money later. Take a good look at what you after in the long run, and buy the pipes for it now. Any pipe will give it a lot more power than it has right now, and will pickup better has you mod it because you picked the right pipes.

Good link Formulaspeed. What I really want to know is what a good setting for a banshee. I talked to someone in a banshee chat room last night that really seemed like he knows what he was talking about. So I went with a 4 degree neg on the camber. I hope it works out. I know it looks cool! Also I seem to have more wheel travel, so I cant wait to ride it! I ended out using my magnet degree wheel. I just put it on the inside of the rim.

I'm not running off. I could cut and paste some article too. But why? You guys are missing something, or maybe I'm not clear enough. I refering to the 3 dynos you said that you have been on. You guys are acting like when I say the same that I'm saying exact. With my bike tuned correctly for the summer. I would run numbers in the range of 49-52 for a good part of the summer. This was off two different dynos. Yes I would get times, here and there that it would run a little worst. But that had to be one sh-ty day. You dont give me or other people the credit of knowing the obvious, or may i'm not giving you enough. On your normal summer day my bike will run these numbers. To me this is the same. If I had a bike that ran fat on the jets all the time, My numbers would change a lot more depending on the day and temp. A fat running bike would be more tempermently about these things. A bike thats running good would not. My car runs 585-603 during the summer, and 590-651 in the winter. To me this is normal. If someone asked me how my car ran on the dyno the next day, I would the same. Its a supercharger car so the cold weather really makes it pick up. Before I got it tuned in it would be all over the place in the numbers. Now it stays about the same. A dyno is more accurate the closer to true things are, that it believes to be true. If the car it not straped down right, its a stick shift, or just has so much power that it would stay glued. You have to to fix these problems or the dyno wont be correct. People have to know what there doing. My friends stick 67 mustang had problems, so we straped it down different and rolled on the power slower. This is pretty common knowledge stuff. When I ran my car in sac, I dont know what to believe. I just got the supercharger last year, I dont have it tuned quite right yet for that attude. So those nunbers change a lot. I know this. When I get it tuned in the dynos will start getting more consistent. If you asked me what my shee puts out I would say 52. If you asked me what my car puts out I would say 603. I believe these numbers to be a very good estimate of what these put out. pics of car

I just got some new a arms, and want to put some negative camber in them. I dont know how much is good, or how to do this correctly. How do you guys adjust yours? I'm lost

I dyno on good dynos with my car. I dont know whats up with the sh t you dyno on. I have dyno my shee a number of times, and unless I change something, its the same. When I say the same I mean corrected for the conditions. I have had my car on the dyno too many time to count, more than three times. We are in the works of getting a dyno in my partners and my shop. It will be a car dyno. I know I dont know about about shees as good as you, but I know a lot about dynos. I have been drag racing for 10 years, and have a few friends that own them. I will too soon. If setup correct you will get a true hp number. I'm done with this subject, so we can just agree to disagree.