dirtbike killer

The dyno I use measures rear wheel hp . There is no corrections for gears. The dyno knows how much power it takes to turn that drum, period! It doesn't matter whats on it, its measuring power to the drum. There are different dynos, but if its working right you will get the same basic number. Torque is measured and hp is calculated, there is no different ways to calculate hp. X amount of torque at X amount of rpm = x amount of hp. I have had my drag car on many different dynos, and get the same results. If a dyno differs from the masses of other dynos, something is wrong with it. I dont know how many dynos you have been on, but I have been on too many to count. Saying all dynos differ, is like saying all calculators differ. 2+2=4 on one and 3 on an other. Because thats what dynos are.

Are you better off going bigger in the front, or smaller in the back?

Who doesn't dyno there " vehicle" without tuning in mind ? The main reason to dyno is to see how much power your putting out. That way you know what direction to go, if your where you want to be, or if your even going in the right direction . When you took your dyno I bet the first thing you wanted to know was how much? Forget the reason you wanted to know, thats what you were after: HP NUMBERS. Thats what dynos are for. Like Stuff said:

I like the the 2 into 1. It gave me alot more bottom end. Check out the power at 6000 rpm. The single is putting out 10 more hp, and also has a better power average though the power band. The shee is a lot more fun to ride, feels like an different bike. A dyno is how you find out how much power your getting. I dont see any other way to get this. I dont think its pointless. The question was, how much power do we think he is putting out. I did a dyno, I had about the same mods. Thats what I was getting. You posted your hp. How did get your numbers, since dynos are pointless you must of got these numbers some other way.

I say about 50. I did 52 on the dyno with about the same mods.(at 4500 ft) Do a search, you can find my dyno sheet. I posted a couple of them.

I have two new pwk33's I would trade. They about 4 months old. I bought one for my shee and one for my lt250r. I need a 35mm on the 250r. So will trade both. How do you want to do the trade? P.E. me and we will talk.

I do alot of drag racing. If there is one thing I know about intakes, is a high will give you more top end, and low will give you more bottom and mid. I think it will work the same on the shee. The carb gets its signal faster and less friction with a low. It gets a cooler charge and better atomize with the high.

Yeh, something is blocking fuel. I thought maybe you did some mod to it. I only go a couple larger on the pilots in the winter.

Why do you want bigger jets?

Your main jet sounds way to big. I have about the same amount of mods, minus the port work. I run a 175 main. You might need something a little bigger, but I dont thing that big. What pilot are you running?

do you have a 2 into 1 setup?

I would like to know where people are getting all these top speed numbers from. Do you have speedos? I understand if you have been to the track. But for the people that have not, were do these numbers come from? My shee has every bolt on you can get, and it did 92mph on the dyno at 11,500 rpm. I know outside in the real world it wont even do that! That was with my dual 26's on a stock port, and 52hp. I find it hard to believe that someone does over 90mph on a stock port.

How cheap?

I agree with banchetta. Start with 180 mains and a 50 pilot. I have a stock port and run 175 and 48.

You can also try advancing your timing 4 degrees. I noticed more bottom end with this mod.

I own both. The lt250r is quick in the firstt three gears. But then the shee with pass it so fast that you think the 250 ran out of gas or something. They are quick, they only weigh 325lbs

Make should your idle screw is at less one full turn out ( not air screw). If it want idle like that, get it to idle by adjusting your cable. Start with 50 pilots and 180 mains, and go from there. Most people can't get it to idle right with the idle screw turned out, so they turn it all the way in. The bike wont run right like that. I went to the carb web sight and they say, no matter what it has to be at less one full turn out or you wont run right. As far as your pilot goes, that is for off idle. Put the 50 pilot in and give it a couple of blips on the throttle. Start with the air screw at 11/2 turns. Turn it out every couple of revs a 1/2 turn. If you get 2 1/2 turns out and its still getting better throttle response, go to the next size lower and do the same thing. With the main jet start with the 180 mains and go down until it will rev out in 6th gear. The needle is the easyest. Start in the 3rd postion and go up and down until you feel the power comes on the best. That it does not bog when you jump on it and also does not pop. If it bogs, go up on the clip. If it pops go down. This is when your looking at the needle with point facing down. Also do all of this in this order. For the record I run 175 mains and 48 pilots in the summer, and 175 mains and 50 pilots in the winter. This is at 4500 feet att.

I have t6's with a two into one carb setup. I have tons of bottom end and top end still feels great! You can also try a smaller front gear.

Whats up with the sponser? NOT COOL!!!

Well that sucks! I was hoping for something.

Here is some pics of by main baby. She runs 10.50's at 4500 feet! Right now she has a bent push rod. Will be fixed this weekend. She would run faster but I still like driving her on the streets.

Has anyone done this? Did you notice any difference? I swopped my pos and neg. I haven't rode it yet, way to cold up here in the hills. Everything I read about this says you get a hotter spark. The shee seems to start fine like this. I just want to get some input on this from some people that have done it. Will I have to rejet? Or is a waste of time.

Unless your riding a ported banshee with t6's you dont know. Toomey also told me not to run the 2 into 1 intake. They said I would lose 5 hp. I loss 3.9 top end and gained over 10 on the bottom with the 33mm, lose 1.2 on topend and gained over 8 on the bottom end with the 35mm. I would not take to heart what they say. They may have made the pipe, but I know the people that run the pipes on there bikes know more about what the pipe will do and not do. I have had the pipes since day one.

Email me at [email protected]. We can trade pics and see if we can work something out.

Where are you? I was thinking of trying something different also. I love my t6's, but think the turner mids might work better with my 2 into 1 carb setup.