Ruko

For things like the splines that are covered you could put some anti-sieze like copper coat or something on it.. even a light coat of grease. Anything you can see and you want to have a blasted look get a can of clear coat to cover it. You can also get a satin finish clear coat if you don't want it shiny.

Some people like the twist and some don't.. if you're not sure about it you probably wont like it. Usually the guys who ride bikes like the twist but it is alot more difficult to control on a quad than it is on a bike. On bikes you hold on more with your legs... on a quad you use your hands more. I tryed one for a while and even though I used to ride a bike I found it very hard to control. On smooth trails or roads it was fine but when you got into rough stuff you would end up going on off on off a lot. I switched back to a thumb throttle but I got one off a Honda 400ex and it is way better than the stock Yamaha one. It doesn't feel any softer but I don't get a sore thumb at all any more. I think it is just a different angle or something... but it is WAY better. I got mine off e-bay for cheap. I also tryed an extended lever from Cascade on my girlfriends Banshee... it worked ok too but it was kinda long. I sold it to a friend of mine and he loves it... may just have to get used to it.

There are lots of people using the 450 shocks with Banshee +2 arms, there are also lots of people going with the 450 arms now as well. It all depends on your wallet... if you want the best, go with stuff to fit a Banshee properly. If you wana save some money go with the 450 arms. If you allready have the +2 arms stick with them... if you can afford proper shocks do it... if not go with 450 shocks for now. They are all big improvements over stock.

I am planning on getting some 22-11-8 10 paddle haulers. How much of a difference is there between superlites and bead to bead buffs, as far as durability? I am going to St. Anthony's with the lava rocks in places I don't wana cut a tire.

The stock 450 shocks will work with extended Banshee arms. You will have to grind the mounts on the frame at least and maybe the arms, and/or shocks, as well to get them in. You will also have to compress them about an inch to get them in if the arms were made for Banshee length shocks. It has been said that the ball joints will wear out faster because the balljoint travel will max out before the shock, but lots of people run 450 shocks with Banshee arms and I have yet to hear of a balljoint breaking.

If I had to do it all over again I would forget about the engine for a while and work on upgrading the suspension first.

I'll be heading down there from Edmonton Aug 18-25. There is 4 of us going so far. We're staying at The Sandhills campgrounds.

Definately worth the drive. I'm from Edmonton so for us it's about 14 hours. We've been there a few times now and we're heading back again in Aug. Wicked dunes and awesome hills. As far as paddles... there are a lot of choices. Skat-tracs are the way to go for the best traction... probably a 8 or 9 paddle hauler. The first time I was there we used Kenda Traker's and we still got around ok but they suck compared to Skat's.

I've had one in my cheetah with a lockup for the last couple years... it's held up fine so far.

Paddles definatly help but they are not needed. There will be a few hills you wont make it up without them but there are also some trails and old roads that would like to eat paddles. Anytime you wana go out there just let me know... I'm allways up for it.

I did a quick search through my comp and these are all I could find for pics... unfortunatly they are just along the beach and don't show any of the hills. The area is along the side of a big river with sand hills going up into the trees. There are some trails but we mostly go there to climb the hills. It goes for quite a ways along the river but it also depends on how high the water is for how much riding area there is. I don't know anything about Abraham Lake so I can't compare the two for you size wise but there is lots of space to ride at Brule for a weekend without getting bored. The hills change lots too so what is there one week will be flooded the next or where there was no trail all of a sudden there is. There are some pretty good climbs... not really long but tricky. Lots have trees on them you need to go around so you can't just point at a hill and pin it, you need to get on and off the throttle to go around things. As far as cops I have been riding there for a few years now and I have seen the fish cops out there once, but they didn't stop us. I think they were looking more for people boozing it up and causing trouble instead of hassling the guys just there to ride. We usually just go for day trips, but there can get to be quite a few people there on nice or long weekends. We are planning to go this Sat, May 26th if you wana come along.

.012" is the minimun for ring end gap... we run ours at .018"-.020" it's better to have too much than too little. If you are at .025 now that would be ok but your bigger problem is having .010" piston clearance... that is too much. It is also why your ring gap is big as well. You better get another set of pistons the next size up and have your cyl's rebored.

If you're getting a new Cheetah they come with V-Force reeds allready.

I'm pretty sure you mean Works fronts and Ohlins on the rear. Works are pretty good and Ohlins are really good. But there are a lot of variables for both. Here are there websites http://www.ohlins.com/ http://www.worksperformance.com/

I have had one on my machine for the past 2 years... It works great, it is super smooth and really soft. It's not really like the front brake, it will pull all the way in without stiffening up. The brakes have to increase pressure as you pull it in so it gets stiffer. I would say they are great except for the price. Something else to look into with a much better price tag is an E-Z pull lever. I had a Fly e-z pull on my girlfriends old banshee and it worked pretty good too. It wasn't as smooth and it didn't feel as nice but it was just as soft. If you don't mind paying for it the Magura's are awesome but if you want to soften the clutch for about 1/5th of the price go with an e-z pull lever.

No problem... we heli-coil head bolt holes all the time. Just be careful and install them straight.

I think you meant 25 ft/lbs... 25 in/lbs is only about finger tight. I don't know about Noss heads but the torque for stock heads is 20 ft/lbs. Also it's better to be a little big on the ring gap, I set mine at 18-20... 12 is about the min. It's not really gona make any difference being a little bigger but if it's too tight you could end up with major problems. I've found it's best to use some sand paper over a small file instead of just a file when setting your ring gap. A file by itself can leave a burr on the edge of the ring end.

I know a couple people who ran the same ones on both sides... they didn't even notice until it was pointed out to them. If they were free I wouldn't worry about it, you wont be able to tell any difference.

The shocks only mount to the lower a-arms. The upper end mounts to the frame. So if you leave the upper mount as is and move the lower mount out you get a longer eye to eye distance between the two, in order to use the longer shocks from a 450. Although just to make sure I have you're question right... yes you need to get or build both upper and lower a-arms to get the extra length, but you only need to move the mount out on the lower one.

cool thx... I guess they'll allways find a way to get bigger :biggrin:

Sry I don't know much about triples, and this is unrelated to your topic, but what do you guys mean when you say "DM"?

I spliced it in, the wires off the new coil are only a couple inches long. I just cut the old one off and connected the new one with crimp connectors and then shrink tubed them. There was lots of room on the back of the stator plate so having the connetions there didn't get in the way of anything.

Sry haven't had it on a Dyno yet... I've always wanted to, just to see, but I've never got around to it. As far as the price of a Cheetah they come with V-Force reeds, Upp intakes, a head, pistons and gaskets. They use the bigger reeds, from a cr250 I believe, and the newer kits have heads with interchangable domes. The older ones had 1 piece heads, just in case you look for used stuff. The reason they are harder to find info on is Trinity has exclusive rights to them so they all come from them originally. I got mine from K&T, they sell them for about the same price as Trinity so they must get some kind of wholesale price from them. I think your own pros and cons pretty well hit the nail on the head as far as the Cubs and T-Rex. You could also try to call a builder and get some feedback from them, they may have more info from a technical standpoint. I know K&T builds all 3 of those engines you asked about so they can give you good info on all of them without trying to sell you one or the other just because that's what they sell.

Yes you can get just the pick up coil, I just replaced mine a couple weeks ago for the same thing. It's just the 2 wires like you said, so it's easy to replace.

I had mine built like that from Sanddragon a couple years ago... I think it actually worked out to about 3/4 of an inch out because the a-arm is angled down as well. They work great by the way... don't see why it should be any different for J-arms. If you chick on my sig pic they are a bunch more pics of it there.